2 hours, 5 shells made....that sucks.
- Thread starter darcy32171
- Start date
Darcy, I think your mistake was using the calculator to set the powder measure.
I have the same kit you do, and when setting up to measure powder, I use the calculation to get close to the exact grain weight, then I adjust as necessary. That's why I use an electronic scale, it's much, much quicker to weigh the charge than on a beam scale.
Also, the powder measure that comes with the kit will "smooth out" during use. That has something to do with graphite coating the inside of the measure. The Lee Perfect Powder Measure needs to be "broken in".
Apparently, running some kind of graphite powder through the measure will coat the insides with graphite, which helps the powder flow through more evenly. The same thing will result from using the measure as most powders contain some graphite.
I have the same kit you do, and when setting up to measure powder, I use the calculation to get close to the exact grain weight, then I adjust as necessary. That's why I use an electronic scale, it's much, much quicker to weigh the charge than on a beam scale.
Also, the powder measure that comes with the kit will "smooth out" during use. That has something to do with graphite coating the inside of the measure. The Lee Perfect Powder Measure needs to be "broken in".
Apparently, running some kind of graphite powder through the measure will coat the insides with graphite, which helps the powder flow through more evenly. The same thing will result from using the measure as most powders contain some graphite.
Darcy : Stop, don't go any further without some help, you should not be measuring loaded factory rounds, and definately not be doing any multiplying into CCs. Get a decent scale that measures in grains and a trickler, set up powder measure to measure just under your weight, throw the charge into the pan, put pan on scale, trickle powder into pan until it comes up to your required charge!
Thanks for the replies. As for the digital scale, first thing on my list to get. Hearing about throwing low and trickling up to the desired charge seems much easier. As for the powder measurer, yes it is quite finicky...thats what was the most bothersome. Maybe it does need to be broke in. As for the funnel in the kit, its funny...till I read these responses, I didn`t realize it had a shoulder inside of it. I had noticed the mouth of the funnel passed by the shoulder of the shell. Made me think it would make a huge mess.
I`ll price out a trickler and one of those hammer deals to take these five apart. You guys have me worried now about the charge inside. Thanks,Darcy
I`ll price out a trickler and one of those hammer deals to take these five apart. You guys have me worried now about the charge inside. Thanks,Darcy
Just went by the Hodgdon reloading data.
Don`t understand? Kinetic meaning the hammer type? How does the collet type work?
Geez, thanks for the video!! Definetly a must have then the hammer type.
Rory McCanuck
CGN Regular
- Location
- Middle of Manitoba
A few tips:
The conversion factor works to get you close.
The numbers were worked out with that lot of powder,
with that humidity, in 1993 (or whenever).
Loads are very rarely given in cc's, almost always in grains.
As you work up a load, record the cc's for each weight.
That makes it easily repeatable.
The Perfect Powder Measure will work better when its broken in.
Fill the hopper, adjust it to 1-2 cc's, run the hopper-full into a container.
The graphite in the powder will lubricate the innards, making it easier
to use consistently. As you are running through this hopper-full, try
to use a consistent stroke. The strength of the hit against the stop
will change how much it throws.
Loosening or tightening the screw that holds the rotating chamber
together will ease operation or cause powder to spill out. Find a
happy medium.
The Safety Scale works, but it is very touchy. Put it on
a flat, level shelf, isolated from any vibrations from your press.
Have it butted up against something solid so that it can't move.
On the bottom side of the beam, inspect the pivot points. They are
called knife edges, and should be sharp, with no nicks or burrs.
These ride in a V groove.On mine it is more of a triple-u than a V,
and it takes some care to make sure it is centered properly.
Make sure the beam is not brushing either side at the pointer end,
and give it a bit of a nudge to ensure it isn't binding.
The arm on the powder tray has a bend in it to make a hook.
Mine was a gentle, rounded bend and readings would change,
depending on where on the curve it sat. Take two pairs of pliers
and make the bend into a very sharp, abrupt bend. This is to make
certain it goes back on the hook the same every time.
Once you have the Lee stuff figured out, it really does work well.
There is a bit of a learning curve though.
Hope something in all this helps a bit.
The conversion factor works to get you close.
The numbers were worked out with that lot of powder,
with that humidity, in 1993 (or whenever).
Loads are very rarely given in cc's, almost always in grains.
As you work up a load, record the cc's for each weight.
That makes it easily repeatable.
The Perfect Powder Measure will work better when its broken in.
Fill the hopper, adjust it to 1-2 cc's, run the hopper-full into a container.
The graphite in the powder will lubricate the innards, making it easier
to use consistently. As you are running through this hopper-full, try
to use a consistent stroke. The strength of the hit against the stop
will change how much it throws.
Loosening or tightening the screw that holds the rotating chamber
together will ease operation or cause powder to spill out. Find a
happy medium.
The Safety Scale works, but it is very touchy. Put it on
a flat, level shelf, isolated from any vibrations from your press.
Have it butted up against something solid so that it can't move.
On the bottom side of the beam, inspect the pivot points. They are
called knife edges, and should be sharp, with no nicks or burrs.
These ride in a V groove.On mine it is more of a triple-u than a V,
and it takes some care to make sure it is centered properly.
Make sure the beam is not brushing either side at the pointer end,
and give it a bit of a nudge to ensure it isn't binding.
The arm on the powder tray has a bend in it to make a hook.
Mine was a gentle, rounded bend and readings would change,
depending on where on the curve it sat. Take two pairs of pliers
and make the bend into a very sharp, abrupt bend. This is to make
certain it goes back on the hook the same every time.
Once you have the Lee stuff figured out, it really does work well.
There is a bit of a learning curve though.
Hope something in all this helps a bit.
Rory McCanuck
CGN Regular
- Location
- Middle of Manitoba
A casing with a small mouth works well as a trickler.
I throw a charge into a 243 case and roll it in my fingers.
I throw a charge into a 243 case and roll it in my fingers.
NShunter1254
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nova Scotia Canada
Step one- stand up
Step two-open window
Step three- pickup lee safety scale
Step four- throw lee safety scale as far as possible
Step five-be sure to run over it with atleast two wheels while driving to the store to retrieve a real scale.
Step two-open window
Step three- pickup lee safety scale
Step four- throw lee safety scale as far as possible
Step five-be sure to run over it with atleast two wheels while driving to the store to retrieve a real scale.
View the reloading data as a guide. They will give you the max charge with various combinations of components. Find the cartridge listing that most closely matches the components you have on hand. Start at the lowest charge listed and assemble 5 rounds. Now increase the charge by .1 grs, assemble 5 rounds and so on till you get to the max. Go shoot it. Look at group size on the targets and signs of over pressure on the spent brass. Smallest group size is the combination that works for your gun.
Change a component and you have to start all over again.
It is a long process but it is very rewarding because you are tuning the ammo to your gun and it will out shoot factory ammo.
my 2 shekels...
The manual lists the maximum load in the firearm that they used, which may differ from what is safe in your rifle, which is why you need to work up loads while watching for pressure signs. I generally work up loads in 1/2gr increments, and do my final load tuning by varying the seating depth.
I went by the Hodgdon data site for my shell and gr of bullet. Starting load is 34gr @ 50,900psi and max load is 36.5 @ 62,400psi. The five shells I made are sitting at 34.5gr. This should be a safe starting point I think without the fear of blowing my gun up with the first shot.
As for the one reply about the perfect powder measurer and being fluid movement for correct powder throw: Absolutely spot on! Last night I thought I`d throw a few loads, made sure to be fluid in my movements and I hit the exact powder throw everytime when I weighed them.
Someone mentioned about throwing my calculator away. This Lee Perfect Powder Measurer is done in increments of cc`s. I needed to figure this out to set the throw. It`s pretty much spot on now at 34.5gr
As for the one reply about the perfect powder measurer and being fluid movement for correct powder throw: Absolutely spot on! Last night I thought I`d throw a few loads, made sure to be fluid in my movements and I hit the exact powder throw everytime when I weighed them.
Someone mentioned about throwing my calculator away. This Lee Perfect Powder Measurer is done in increments of cc`s. I needed to figure this out to set the throw. It`s pretty much spot on now at 34.5gr
