20 gauge vs 12 gauge for Sporting Clays?
- Thread starter goldcup
- Start date
...20 gauge vs 12 gauge...
...20 gauge guns tend to come equiped with lighter, shorter barrels that become "whippy" and difficult to control...the 12 bore guns are preferred for smoother handling and steadiness on longer targets...if you like the lighter recoil of the 20 gauge ammunition---try the 12 gauge "24 gram" (7/8 ounce) ammo in a 12 gauge gun and enjoy the benefits of both worlds......
...20 gauge guns tend to come equiped with lighter, shorter barrels that become "whippy" and difficult to control...the 12 bore guns are preferred for smoother handling and steadiness on longer targets...if you like the lighter recoil of the 20 gauge ammunition---try the 12 gauge "24 gram" (7/8 ounce) ammo in a 12 gauge gun and enjoy the benefits of both worlds......
I find empty 12ga bbls too whippy 
You can shoot 20ga from a regular 12ga shotgun (with the appropriate devices). I use full length gauge tubes for skeet. I haven't shot 12ga ammo in years.
20ga gives you lighter recoil with a payload that is nearly as effective for skeet.
12ga gives you extra payload (and extra recoil), which may be more desirable for sporting.
I find that I shoot better for longer periods of time with the reduced recoil.
Brad.
You can shoot 20ga from a regular 12ga shotgun (with the appropriate devices). I use full length gauge tubes for skeet. I haven't shot 12ga ammo in years. 20ga gives you lighter recoil with a payload that is nearly as effective for skeet.
12ga gives you extra payload (and extra recoil), which may be more desirable for sporting.
I find that I shoot better for longer periods of time with the reduced recoil.
Brad.
That depends on you and your game? If you are a serious competative shooter who wants to win your class or work up to the next class, the 12 is probably what you should stick with. If your goal is to shoot clays as practice for hunting or you shoot with friends for the pure fun of it, the smaller gauges are a pleasure to shoot and you really do not give up much to the 12. Well over 90% of the clays I have seen are breakable with the 20 or smaller. A well centered target will put an X on the score sheet with whatever you shoot.
The 20 is lighter to carry. It often recoils as much as the 12 because the guns are lighter. The standard 20 gauge target load maxes out at 7/8s while the 12 is 1-1/8 ounce. That extra shot matters on the very long targets and gives you a denser pattern a longer ranges.
I'm not a big fan of the 20 gauge. If I'm shooting subgauge sporting I prefer the 28 gauge.
I'm not a big fan of the 20 gauge. If I'm shooting subgauge sporting I prefer the 28 gauge.
I own a 20 guage and 12 guage (DONT LAUGH) Mossberg bolt actions - model 195 and 185. They are those Uglyass wooden bolt guns with the select choke on the end. ANYHOW, I can hit 95 out of 100 clays with the 20 , yet I only seem to average about 75-80 with the 12. For some reason, even though there are more pellets in the 12, I seem to be able to hit better with the lower recoil weapon. (The chokes are set at the same for both, so its not a choke question) . I have had similar results with 2 single shot shotguns that I had 5 years ago. I guess it might be luck or whatever, but I win every time amongst my buddies with the 20 guage, but I am buying the beer when I use the 12 guage.
It might still be a choke thing. No matter how it is set, it is the actual pattern that counts. Even more important than actual pattern density is a gun that shoots where you look. It sounds like the 20 does a better job of that. With those Mossbergs, how do you do on true pairs?
Goldcup, there are many ways to look at your question. One way is to look at the course(s) you shoot, and how far away the targets are when you break them. Long targets require tighter, more consistent patterns and all other things being equal, a 12 gauge will deliver better patterns than a 20.
Many sporting clays courses use medium or shorter distance targets which are well within the pattern range of 20 or even 28 gauge guns. For those presentations, the sub gauge guns are not a handicap. The ammunition is lighter and easier to haul around, and sometimes so are the guns.
Lighter recoil from a 20 gauge is not a given - perceived recoil comes from the payload and its velocity vs. gun weight and fit. A 20 gauge load in a gun that weighs the same as a 12 gauge will give reduced recoil, but if the weight of the 20 gauge gun is substantially less then the recoil will be equal to or potentially even greater than that from a 12 gauge. Eg., if you shoot 1 ounce loads from a 7 lb. 12 gauge and 7/8 oz. loads from a 6 lb. 20 gauge then the 20 gauge will have greater recoil (assuming the same velocity).
Having a lighter gun and lighter ammo to haul around can have its advantages at the end of a long course. Having a heavier gun, lighter ammo and less recoil can also have benefits. A lot depends on how you perceive the recoil and how physically fit you are relative to the course and your gear.
The choice of gun also has a bearing on the suitability of the 20 gauge for sporting clays. As mentioned by others, short barreled "whippy" guns can be frustrating on the course. I also see little advantage to having a 12 gauge gun with 20 gauge barrels on it for sporting clays (Mr. McRae shoots skeet, which has different requirements). A well balanced 20 gauge with a properly scaled frame and barrels of at least 28 inches (30" is better, some like 32") will keep you in the game. Take a look at guns such as the semi auto Beretta Teknys sporting, or the Caesar Guerini Magnus Sporting Limited U/O in 20 gauge to see the kind of configuration you are after.
If your course shows 50 yard birds or you need the widest possible effective patterns, stick to the 12 gauge. If you're an average shooter and shoot average courses, then the 20 gauge is enjoyable and rewarding. Just keep the choice of gun appropriate to the game.
Sharptail
Many sporting clays courses use medium or shorter distance targets which are well within the pattern range of 20 or even 28 gauge guns. For those presentations, the sub gauge guns are not a handicap. The ammunition is lighter and easier to haul around, and sometimes so are the guns.
Lighter recoil from a 20 gauge is not a given - perceived recoil comes from the payload and its velocity vs. gun weight and fit. A 20 gauge load in a gun that weighs the same as a 12 gauge will give reduced recoil, but if the weight of the 20 gauge gun is substantially less then the recoil will be equal to or potentially even greater than that from a 12 gauge. Eg., if you shoot 1 ounce loads from a 7 lb. 12 gauge and 7/8 oz. loads from a 6 lb. 20 gauge then the 20 gauge will have greater recoil (assuming the same velocity).
Having a lighter gun and lighter ammo to haul around can have its advantages at the end of a long course. Having a heavier gun, lighter ammo and less recoil can also have benefits. A lot depends on how you perceive the recoil and how physically fit you are relative to the course and your gear.
The choice of gun also has a bearing on the suitability of the 20 gauge for sporting clays. As mentioned by others, short barreled "whippy" guns can be frustrating on the course. I also see little advantage to having a 12 gauge gun with 20 gauge barrels on it for sporting clays (Mr. McRae shoots skeet, which has different requirements). A well balanced 20 gauge with a properly scaled frame and barrels of at least 28 inches (30" is better, some like 32") will keep you in the game. Take a look at guns such as the semi auto Beretta Teknys sporting, or the Caesar Guerini Magnus Sporting Limited U/O in 20 gauge to see the kind of configuration you are after.
If your course shows 50 yard birds or you need the widest possible effective patterns, stick to the 12 gauge. If you're an average shooter and shoot average courses, then the 20 gauge is enjoyable and rewarding. Just keep the choice of gun appropriate to the game.
Sharptail
