20 Inch Barrel AR

Mumbles Marble Mouth

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I converted my M&P-15 Sport II to a 20” pencil barrel. Can’t wait to try it out. I don’t know if I will have to change the buffer or not since it’s got the original. Light weight with that pencil barrel. I like a lot.

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Heya! Just wondering why you'd want to do this? I.e. a 20" barrel on an M&P. This isn't a troll question, just an honest question. (I'm new to customizing ARs)

Looks great, BTW!
 
Heya! Just wondering why you'd want to do this? I.e. a 20" barrel on an M&P. This isn't a troll question, just an honest question. (I'm new to customizing ARs)

Looks great, BTW!

I only did it because my favorite style of AR rifles are the 20" M16/C7 types. As for if it makes the gun better than its original Sport II configuration? Probably. The barrel is chrome lined with heat shield hand guards. A bayonet will also actually work now. The 16" barrel guns the barrel is too long after the gas block and not enough blade is sticking out to actually do anything. If you didn't like the long rifle length AR's though then there really isn't a reason for you to do it yourself.
 
I only did it because my favorite style of AR rifles are the 20" M16/C7 types. As for if it makes the gun better than its original Sport II configuration? Probably. The barrel is chrome lined with heat shield hand guards. A bayonet will also actually work now. The 16" barrel guns the barrel is too long after the gas block and not enough blade is sticking out to actually do anything. If you didn't like the long rifle length AR's though then there really isn't a reason for you to do it yourself.

There's much to be said about the original 20" barrel configuration.
Primarily for reliability. The dwell time with a rifle length gas system and barrel is the perfect balance of reliability and impulse/recoil dampening.
The full length barrel gives optimal velocity for shooting out to distance and maintaining high velocity out to 300m effective.
The 14.5" barrel and carbine gas system is over gassed making it reliable but very hard on the system and recoil. It's the only other properly developed config aside from 20" original config.
All other combinations get a little wacky but that's a whole other topic.
The A1 config to me was the pinnacle of AR15 for balance, accuracy, reliability, recoil, weight and effect to distance. Plus having one of the longest sight radiuses of any battle rifle. Theyve been chasing their own tail ever since.

Especially with the 55gr projectiles. Projo leaving a 20" muzzle at damn near 3,300 + feet per second!
Not many people have ever fired one in the old school original config. It's a dream to shoot and handle. You can fire it one hand standing and still keep it on target all day.
 
I converted my M&P-15 Sport II to a 20” pencil barrel. Can’t wait to try it out. I don’t know if I will have to change the buffer or not since it’s got the original.

You should be fine. I dropped a 20" on a carbine lower originally meant for a 14.5" and I had no issues. What's the twist rate on that? I had a 1:9 and it shot like a laser, I bet a 1:12 would do even better.
 
I always like the looks of the A2 and want to build an upper but I want to make one like the Windham Dissipator. With a shorter barrel sticking out the front but a full rifle handguard. I believe they hide a low profile gas block under the handguard and just have the front sight used as just a sight. I want to figure out how they did it and replicate that one using a A2 upper
 
I always like the looks of the A2 and want to build an upper but I want to make one like the Windham Dissipator. With a shorter barrel sticking out the front but a full rifle handguard. I believe they hide a low profile gas block under the handguard and just have the front sight used as just a sight. I want to figure out how they did it and replicate that one using a A2 upper

I'm not sure how later commercial variants did it.
The original dissipaters were just A2 rifles with the barrels cut back essentially to the gas block, threaded and FH torqued on.
They had feeding issues when they were first trialing them. You basically cut the dwell time pressure used for cycling the action off about an inch ahead of the gas port. All gas pressure dumps too early to stay in the gas system long enough to pressurize and cycle it reliably.
In the USA they sell "dissipater" kits. You can see these are actually cut about 2 to 3 inches ahead of the gas port hole under the FSB and I would suspect they also opened up the gas port quite a bit to get it to feed more reliably.
Just something to consider before you start chopping barrels etc

Or like Ravage said its a carbine gas system under the handguard and just the FSB pinned on dead for looks. They would have done this to likely avoid the pain in ass of tweaking the gas port to get it to feed and cycle.
 
I got up early this morning to show up at the UPS store first thing at 9:00 to pick up my rifle length gas tube from Maple Ridge Armory. I quickly went home, installed it, and headed off to the range to test it out. Accuracy is pretty good much better than the M&P 15 Sport II barrel it had. Once I got home I had to hammer the gas block pins back out as I put them in the wrong side and the front sight was canted off to the right. Now they're in properly and everything is straight. Love this gun.

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You should be fine. I dropped a 20" on a carbine lower originally meant for a 14.5" and I had no issues. What's the twist rate on that? I had a 1:9 and it shot like a laser, I bet a 1:12 would do even better.

Its a 1:8. Its suppose to be a TNA barrel but I don't see them with a listing a for a 1:8 just a 1:9. Maybe an older barrel run they did? Not sure. Either way its a Chomelined 1:8 twist MP 5.56 NATO marked 20" pencil barrel.
 
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