Helsinki Cowboy
CGN Regular
- Location
- Upper Canada
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- Thread starter Helsinki Cowboy
- Start date
Helsinki Cowboy
CGN Regular
- Location
- Upper Canada
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So how do you expect people to help you if you only want to dribble out pertinent information????????
Blastattack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg MB
Can’t be harder than any other firearm to rebarrel. Not sure why you’d dump money into something that can’t be used anyways though.
Helsinki Cowboy
CGN Regular
- Location
- Upper Canada
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- Location
- WMU248 near Edmonton
well you should of asked a serious question with more details
this is CGN and yes the milsurp forum is the likely the most reasonable and polite section here but if you what help you have to provide all the information and not just assume that people know what your asking.
and besides that I may have moved this thread into the Gunsmithing thread then things would have got that much more confusing.
OK, the OP apparently wanted to know about getting a 1928 Thompson rebarreled.
Just like any other gun, a proper barrel vise and receiver wrench would be required. It is a shouldered installation, square threads and must be properly timed. The front sight would need to be remounted; it is a pinned collar arrangement.
The gunsmith would need to be licenced to work on prohibited firearms.
Acquiring a replacement barrel might be a challenge.
Let's assume that there are no welds or pins to be dealt with - those would pose additional challenges, legal ones perhaps being the most serious.
Rebarreling one of the commercial 16 1/4" barreled lookalikes would result in something that looks more like an original, without the anteater look of the long barrel.
Just like any other gun, a proper barrel vise and receiver wrench would be required. It is a shouldered installation, square threads and must be properly timed. The front sight would need to be remounted; it is a pinned collar arrangement.
The gunsmith would need to be licenced to work on prohibited firearms.
Acquiring a replacement barrel might be a challenge.
Let's assume that there are no welds or pins to be dealt with - those would pose additional challenges, legal ones perhaps being the most serious.
Rebarreling one of the commercial 16 1/4" barreled lookalikes would result in something that looks more like an original, without the anteater look of the long barrel.
Helsinki Cowboy
CGN Regular
- Location
- Upper Canada
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From US Army TM 9-1215 on the M1928A1.
"To remove barrel, disassemble gun, wedge a block of hardwood in receiver to prevent springing of the side, clamp receiver in a vise with leather jaws and unscrew barrel from receiver, using a strap wrench. If barrel is to be scrapped, a pipe wrench many be used."
Installation would be the reverse. A very heavy vise would be required to withstand the torque. There is a draw line to facilitate barrel timing, but some adjustment to the barrel shoulder might be necessary. I shudder when I read about pipe wrenches and barrels.
"To remove barrel, disassemble gun, wedge a block of hardwood in receiver to prevent springing of the side, clamp receiver in a vise with leather jaws and unscrew barrel from receiver, using a strap wrench. If barrel is to be scrapped, a pipe wrench many be used."
Installation would be the reverse. A very heavy vise would be required to withstand the torque. There is a draw line to facilitate barrel timing, but some adjustment to the barrel shoulder might be necessary. I shudder when I read about pipe wrenches and barrels.
The receiver "ring" portion of a Thompson receiver is flat sided. I suspect that something like my flat receiver wrench would work. I've used it on 94 Winchesters, Ruger No.1s, etc. It is just two 1" square bars of steel, clamped together with Allen head bolts. One bar is turned to allow a piece of pipe to be added as a cheater.
If a barrel is truly scrap, a pipe wrench may well be appropriate. I've done it; I've also turned off barrel shoulders. If the TM suggests a strap wrench, they obviously did not consider the barrels to be torqued in too tight. If a strap wrench would work, the rope trick might be worth trying. If I were doing one, I would just machine aluminum bushes to fit my barrel vise and the specific barrel.
If a barrel is truly scrap, a pipe wrench may well be appropriate. I've done it; I've also turned off barrel shoulders. If the TM suggests a strap wrench, they obviously did not consider the barrels to be torqued in too tight. If a strap wrench would work, the rope trick might be worth trying. If I were doing one, I would just machine aluminum bushes to fit my barrel vise and the specific barrel.
