.22 bolt suggestions for grouse

Sveinn84

Sveinn84

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Hey guys,

I'm having a tough time deciding on a decent 22 for grouse. I'll be going for headshots, so would like decent accuracy out of it, without spending over 1000 dollars on the rifle.

What do you guys suggest?
 
Sveinn84 said:
Hey guys,

I'm having a tough time deciding on a decent 22 for grouse. I'll be going for headshots, so would like decent accuracy out of it, without spending over 1000 dollars on the rifle.

What do you guys suggest?
Click to expand...

Once upon a time, I had good results with an extra full choke 12 gauge and shooting over the top of grouse.

Then, I tried for the .22 headshot idea, I mean, I'm a pretty good shot, have my .22's sorted out etc. So I used my best .22. But I did alot of missing trying for headshots. Because often I only got one shot before the bird was gone. Between the 25-40 yard distance, shooting offhand, the little bobbing grouse head which around here is usually heading away from me, and the bullet drop variation at different distances with a scope, there were just too many things to go wrong.

My hunting friends on the other hand advised me to go for the upper body instead, as they had given up on the headshot idea.
It turns out that an upper body hit damages little to no breast meat and by comparison, I rarely miss now.

So take it for what it's worth, but that's my experience. And if you still want to try it, I think open sights would make getting hits easier.
 
LarryG said:
Once upon a time, I had good results with an extra full choke 12 gauge and shooting over the top of grouse.

Then, I tried for the .22 headshot idea, I mean, I'm a pretty good shot, have my .22's sorted out etc. So I used my best .22. But I did alot of missing trying for headshots. Because often I only got one shot before the bird was gone. Between the 25-40 yard distance, shooting offhand, the little bobbing grouse head which around here is usually heading away from me, and the bullet drop variation at different distances with a scope, there were just too many things to go wrong.

My hunting friends on the other hand advised me to go for the upper body instead, as they had given up on the headshot idea.
It turns out that an upper body hit damages little to no breast meat and by comparison, I rarely miss now.

So take it for what it's worth, but that's my experience. And if you still want to try it, I think open sights would make getting hits easier.
Click to expand...

I haven't hunted grouse since I was a kid and did use a 12g when I did shoot them. Your advice makes sense though since there's not really any useable meat on the back anyway.

What are you using to hunt them? Just grab a 400 dollar savage scope package and call it a day?
 
I'll go with a JW-15 shorty usually. Or a 10/22 as p.Rundle suggested. Personally, I think you'd do very well with a JW-20 semi auto and open sights if you are walking. If you don't like chinese stuff, the new 457 cz rifle in the configuration you prefer is a great choice for a bit more $$. I respect the savage rimfires for their accuracy, but prefer other brands, due to the magazine design.
 
This a great objective!

I hunt grouse with a .22 rimfire with a 3-9 scope. Head and neck shots only to preserve the meat. I will not take the shot unless its head/neck. I have a 20 gauge O/U which is a fine grouse gun, but I love this style of hunting with .22. I do not have a dog, so its all on me to find the birds and get the shot.

I do indeed miss a few birds when I get too shaky. I miss many birds that simply walk or run into the bush and disappear on the ground without flushing, before I can get my scope reticle on the head/neck.

Most birds in the northwestern Ontario in my experience do not flush, or if they do its often after they run a fair ways on the ground to behind a thick wall of brush and timber when they decide to flush. The bush is so thick here that visibility is usually less than 20m, with 5-10m common for the shot. But with enough walking and effort, I get the birds I want. I really enjoy the challenge using the .22.

This is my gear:
CZ 455 Lux. Leupold rimfire scope 3-9 zoom.

CZ_455_Ruffed_Grouse_2020_resized.jpg

When I bought that CZ new several years ago it was $450. I expect now its more expensive, but I think you can find a new one under $700. The new CZ 457 Lux models I bet are more expensive than the 455's. I forget what the scope cost.

The CZ Lux models have the iron sights and a tapered barrel for lightness. A fine fine hunting .22!

You will note the cheek riser pad. The CZ Lux stocks are made for the iron sights, so I find for me that extra rise with the cheek pad improves my sight image with the scope.

Often the birds are so close that the 3x magnification is too much. A 1-6 or 2-7 magnification would be usually be better. I tried a 1-4 scope which was OK, but found I sometimes wanted the higher mag for longer shots where the bird was still. Plus I plink with it too at longer ranges than grouse shooting, so I like having the 9x magnification.

Reticle is a duplex. The reticle can disappear in the dark bush backdrop. I think the best reticle for this type of hunting in thick bush backdrop would be a classic German #1 type with the very thick jet black center post with the point. Meopta makes some scopes with this reticle, so I need to start saving money and shopping for one!
 

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Biologist said:
This a great objective!

I hunt grouse with a .22 rimfire with a 3-9 scope. Head and neck shots only to preserve the meat. I will not take the shot unless its head/neck. I have a 20 gauge O/U which is a fine grouse gun, but I love this style of hunting with .22. I do not have a dog, so its all on me to find the birds and get the shot.

I do indeed miss a few birds when I get too shaky. I miss many birds that simply walk or run into the bush and disappear on the ground without flushing, before I can get my scope reticle on the head/neck.

Most birds in the northwestern Ontario in my experience do not flush, or if they do its often after they run a fair ways on the ground to behind a thick wall of brush and timber when they decide to flush. The bush is so thick here that visibility is usually less than 20m, with 5-10m common for the shot. But with enough walking and effort, I get the birds I want. I really enjoy the challenge using the .22.

This is my gear:
CZ 455 Lux. Leupold rimfire scope 3-9 zoom.

View attachment 516853

When I bought that CZ new several years ago it was $450. I expect now its more expensive, but I think you can find a new one under $700. The new CZ 457 Lux models I bet are more expensive than the 455's. I forget what the scope cost.

The CZ Lux models have the iron sights and a tapered barrel for lightness. A fine fine hunting .22!

You will note the cheek riser pad. The CZ Lux stocks are made for the iron sights, so I find for me that extra rise with the cheek pad improves my sight image with the scope.

Often the birds are so close that the 3x magnification is too much. A 1-6 or 2-7 magnification would be usually be better. I tried a 1-4 scope which was OK, but found I sometimes wanted the higher mag for longer shots where the bird was still. Plus I plink with it too at longer ranges than grouse shooting, so I like having the 9x magnification.

Reticle is a duplex. The reticle can disappear in the dark bush backdrop. I think the best reticle for this type of hunting in thick bush backdrop would be a classic German #1 type with the very thick jet black center post with the point. Meopta makes some scopes with this reticle, so I need to start saving money and shopping for one!
Click to expand...

This is great info and I was actually looking at the LUX earlier. I've wanted a CZ rimfire for a while, just never really had a reason to buy one. I was wondering how a scope would work with the irons on there. I do like that there are irons if you need them in a pinch.

I never considered the reticle and brush, that is definitely something I'll consider when I buy one tomorrow. I'm pretty sure I will go with a CZ, but my local shop doesn't have a lux.
 
I realize you said bolt 22… but I have to suggest the Chiappa little badger. It’s the only 22 I own now. It’s compact, extremely accurate and since it’s single shot, makes you focus more (for me anyway). Also, it’s $199.

I was using a completely upgraded 10/22 (dlask and Kidd parts, replacement barrel, etc) which shot lights out, it just wasn’t as fun or as satisfying to use.
 
I'm a fan of the older Brnos. The 1's, 2's and 5's are all nice (to me anyway). The model 1 (451) is probably the lightest and trimmest of the three models. I've had/have several and I don't think I've ever had one that isn't decently (grouse head) accurate, some are exceptional. I have one that I bought with a bulge in the barrel, a few inches from the muzzle, I had it shortened to 19 inches, moved the original sight back, redid the stock and made a scout rifle. This was before CZ was doing it. It's a great little bush gun. On that note, you might think about one of the CZ scout rifles. My vote goes to the 452 Scout if you can find one. Good luck with whatever you decide on'
 
I use a Ruger 77/22 All-Weather, topped with a Leupold. Might tip over your $1000 mark but it's a great combination. I can shoot offhand easily to 50 yards.
CZ would be a good choice.
 
Buy whatever suits you and shoots for you. Hard to go too wrong with just about anything out there these days.

Personally, I usually have my 10/22 in hand, but over the years have used everything from single shot Cooeys, on up through the scale. Bolt actions, pumps, lever guns, and semi's.

Stick to standard velocity ammo and avoid the hollow points, and you can pretty much hit them anywhere without making a mess.
 
I use a savage in 17mach2 mostly followed by a savage fv 22lr. The 22lr i use quiets or sv from cci and aim for the wing joint. It works well and never damages the breast meat. The 17 is a head and neck shot only.
The last couple years ive used a 9mm carbine with 115gr fmj bullets and plunk them the wing joints. Surprising little damage.
All this proves is almost anything can be used with proper ammo choice and shot placement so its best to use this excuse to buy what you really want. I prefer scopes as reddots can cover to much target for precise shooting and my eyes are getting bad
 
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