You can get good results. Some important tricks are to boil the new mold in soapy water for about 20 minutes. Use Flitz on an electric toothbrush to get rid of burrs or hangups in the cavities. Clean out mold again with boiling soapy water, rinse with super clean boiling water, then soak and clean up with acetone.
Use only linotype. If you have just wheelweights, antinomyman.com can sell you a kit to convert ww to linotype. Bullets must have perfect bases. If yours do not you can rig a simple device to make them so. A V notch at the end of a pivoting stick on a flat surface using 150 grit wet and dry sandpaper under the swing arc will get you a flat, perfect base. Obviously this is just to take out very minor imperfections, bigger ones toss 'em back in the pot.
Cast at the lowest temp that still gives good fillout of cavities. Getting a thickish, fast cooling sprue usually gives the best bases using linotype.
Before crimping on heat treat the gas checks by getting them red hot and letting them air cool. Many say to do this but I have not confirmed to my satisfaction that it is worth while.
If using RCBS or Lyman lubesizer, size nose first, using a punch that is flat to the bullet base, then reverse and go base first for the lubing part. Use soft lube if you've got it.
Load case so that reloading manual says speed is about 2300 fps. Use Pufflon as filler for space left in case. Pufflon guy will ship to Canada. Seat bullet so that ogive is just off the lands.
