... I just bought a Tikka combo gun in .222 and 12 gauge from Tradex....
As noted in previous posts, 222 Rem is very accurate cartridge, and with soft-point bullets it will do what you bought it for. As to the choice of combo gun, congratulations! Whether it's a M07 or M66, they are great guns (yes, I'm biased as I own one...) I've had my M07 for over 30 years, and here are few pointers I've learned:
(1) The bottom (rifle) barrel is designed to be free floating in its front and middle mounting "bushings." However, the tolerances are tight, and any crud or rust will "bind" the barrel and your consecutive shots will "walk" on the target as the barrel warms up. If you don't feel the barrel move freely in the middle and front bushing, spray some CRC or WD40 into the chamber sides of the bushings, then let the barrels sit muzzle down overnight. When you see the liquid seep out from the other end, it's only a good start. Now use a very thin spacer, feeler gauge, or other tool to loosen any rust and crud from the space, and blow it out with compressed air. Repeat until you actually feel the barrel moving freely in the bushings. Finally, remember to oil the gaps to keep away rust. You might still see the shots "walk" upwards, but much less and much more predictably. You have to remember that it is a single shot gun, and the other coyotes will no be hanging around to give first-aid to the one that was hit between the eyes...
(2) Your Tikka will likely have a muzzle break. It is a pain in the ass (blows up snow and dust off the ground, makes your ears ring, scares anyone standing either side of you, and deafens your dog and horses...) and there's no need for reducing recoil with 222 Rem! I "fixed" mine with a simple steel bushing. It slides in from the muzzle end, and it is machined with a very slight taper to be a snug friction fit inside the muzzle break. It covers the slots, but leaves about 1/4" gap between it and the crown. Now the expansion gases go where they are supposed to (forward,) the barrel remains free floating, and there was no apparent effect on accuracy.
(3) I like the simple functionality of the hammer, no "safety" per se, and the single trigger with a side barrel selector. However, make sure you practice with it - otherwise, you might miss that perfect shot when you forgot to #### the hammer, or blast that coyote at 250 yards with some #4 shot from your 12 gauge barrel... . Guess how I know...
(4) If you choose to scope the gun, the rail on the top accepts 11mm dovetail rings - do NOT use 3/8" dovetails! I opted for a quick-detach mount with see-through rings. I am not a fan of see-through rings on rifles, but this is one of the applications where they are great. If you find a QD mount, do not use the front rail as your "recoil stop." It may end up coming off from the barrel.
(5) Finally, 222 Rem is not a very popular caliber anymore here in North America, so stock up when you see ammo on the shelves...
If you need any more info, feel free to PM me. In the meanwhile, enjoy your new (not-quite-classic) combo gun!
I took a length of 7/16" OD (6/16" ID) steel tubing - which is just a touch too large to fit in the muzzle break 11mm opening. I cut it to about 2 1/2" length, attached one end into my drill press, and while running, sanded it into a slightly tapered shape so it fits snugly into the muzzle break. I cut it to 35mm length, and then blued it. Once done, I gently pressed (read: tapped with a hammer) it in. It covers the openings, does NOT touch the barrel, as it leaves about 3mm gap between the muzzle and the insert, and most importantly, the friction keeps it tightly in place. 
