.223 Cheaper to reload?

CyaN1de

CyaN1de

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O.K. let's say I don't need to have 5 shot 1 hole groups @ 500yds and only need a good varmint laod, is it still cheaper to reload them than to buy factory loads?

Local price is $65/200 Win factory loads. Not a huge selection of places to buy here. I know there is even cheaper around as well, just not where I am.

Price for Hornady SP's is around $25/100 plus powder and case cost. (Cheapest here I think)
Factor in the price of a basic reloading setup $200ish after taxes
It seems to me it would take many many years of shooting to start seeing even the slightest bit of savings over buying factory.

I have just recently got into relaoding mine, maybe I made a mistake in thinking that I could save money by reloading the .223's as they are such a cheap round to buy.

Anyway, let me know what your take is on it.

Richard
 
Reloading isn't about saving money. It's about using the best possible ammo. It also makes the endless search for the best price go away.
 
Keep buying factory ammo....that way there's more bullets..primers..powder available for those that prefer to make the "best possible ammo" your particular rifle (s) can shoot..
 
You can save money reloading 223 if you buy surplus powder and shoot 55 grain FMJ bullets, which seem to be the cheapest. If you use other components, it will probably end up being more expensive than the cheapest factory ammo, but it will be higher quality and still cheaper than premium factory ammo.
 
Higginsons sells 55 grain hornady sp w/ cannelure and milsurp powder like WC845 or whatever is the current lot

With brass and primer I think I figured it out it was costing me around $5/20 or $50/200 shells to shoot. Accuracy was good too
 
sillymike said:
(Forget the saving $$ idea, if you are like the rest of us, you'll only shoot more for the same $$)
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Yes, but its an illusion that I enjoy clouding my self in.
 
If all you need is cheap ####ty 'blasting' ammo, factory *might* be a viable alternative. If you want a premium varmint round that's specifically tuned for your gun and a premium plastic tipped varmint bullet, then handloads are the way to go. Ditto for match ammo. Handloads will be more accurate when properly worked up, and about 1/2-1/3 the price.
 
IT ALSO DEPENDS ON THE TWIST OF YOUR BARRel- the guys with the 1/7 pretty well have to reload as all thatSEEMS to be out there is 55 grain stuff we need 62 or better-we can get 65 grain in bulk, you have to go to boxed for 70 and better- i don't think i've even SEEN a box of factory with anything heavier than 55- i know they're out there( i get the ammo catalogues too) but the retailers are reluctant to bring them in for some reason- seems i can always get tons of the winchester white 55 though
 
t-star said:
IT ALSO DEPENDS ON THE TWIST OF YOUR BARRel- the guys with the 1/7 pretty well have to reload as all thatSEEMS to be out there is 55 grain stuff we need 62 or better-we can get 65 grain in bulk, you have to go to boxed for 70 and better- i don't think i've even SEEN a box of factory with anything heavier than 55- i know they're out there( i get the ammo catalogues too) but the retailers are reluctant to bring them in for some reason- seems i can always get tons of the winchester white 55 though
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All of the factory loaded 55 grain ammo I've run through my 3 Colt 1:7 twist barrels had excellent accuracy.
 
scotty said:
Price?
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Individual boxes are $6.99 each, but I bargained him down to $6.50 per box if I were to buy a case (with tax that's $370.50). But then when I got there and I saw it was 62 gr (I thought it was 55 gr, but they were sold out of that) I had a moment of indecision and decided not to get it.

I had indecision because I had no clue how the 62 gr would shoot out of my savage (not that the 55 gr groups that great, but it really depends on the rifle), and I decided instead to get into reloading in a few months.
 
Pardon the totally noob question, but, I'm reading this forum trying to get a "list" of what I would need to begin reloading. If I wanted to start reloading .223 ammo, what exactly would I need?? I'm getting confused. I want the basic "OK here's what you need to start" kinda list. ya know??

Sorry, don't mean to hi-jack this thread, and feel free to PM me with any info you care to impart, or topics I've not found using the "search" button here. :D

Steve
 
Plink said:
Pardon the totally noob question, but, I'm reading this forum trying to get a "list" of what I would need to begin reloading. If I wanted to start reloading .223 ammo, what exactly would I need?? I'm getting confused. I want the basic "OK here's what you need to start" kinda list. ya know??

Sorry, don't mean to hi-jack this thread, and feel free to PM me with any info you care to impart, or topics I've not found using the "search" button here. :D

Steve
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that depends on if you're loading for anything else already; dies, powder , bullets , casings, primers, scale, case trimmer, lube pad ( you have to lube your cases) some way to clean your cases, and most IMPORTANT OF ALL- A RELOADING MANUAL- get the manual first and READ IT- then get the rest
 
With reloading (another hobby in itself) , you will go broke saving money.... Kinda like shopping at Costco. :evil:

I like reloading since all that .223 brass prep work is soothing after dealing with teenagers all day in my high school. Reloading is cheaper than buying drinks at the bar for stress relief.

Now mountain biking gets way more expensive as a means of stress relief.

So back to the reloading, my mental health says reloading is cheaper. Besides, when you crank out custom made ammo for my groundhogging ventures into the pastures, I derive a certain satisfaction knowing that I can play around deciding which ear to shoot with my 50 gr VMAX Hornady bullets and 23.5 gr. WC735 Surplus powder from Higginson's as mentioned above.

Sure get into reloading... it's another addiction.

Barney :evil:
 
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