223 load development help

IMagius

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Alrighty then ... tried doing some searches (I know about using the 36 months setting), but I think the terms I'm looking for are just too common. (faster, slower, capacity, etc..)

Also, I'm not new to reloading - but I am new to load development. Until now, I've never bothered with any serious load development ... it's been "check a few books, find a middle of the road load for what I supplies I have on hand, maybe adjust minorly to acceptable groups". Or, I've simply built rounds based on the directions in my "recipe" book whenever requested (Uncle gave me his reloading equipment and load data & would call and ask for 40 of his 22-250, or whatever load he needed more of ... no thinking required on my part)

Background out of the way.

Savage Model 110 (bolt action)
1 in 9 twist
chambered for .223 Remington

Here's my list of questions:

1: From the various powders I have on hand, I currenly have 4 powders in stock (all IMR - 3031, 4096, 4198 & 4320) that show in most charts for a 223 Remington - I could buy others, but I've got a pound or more of each of these, so I'd rather not spend more $$$ yet.

I have also looked up their comparative burnrates.

I've read that for gas operated semi's, a slower burning powder may be needed for heavier (55+ grain) bullets to let the action cycle properly - but is there a ballistic reason to use a slower burning powder? Or, for my puroses using a bolt action rifle, is a faster burn better?

I really don't care much about dirty/clean factors at this point ... I clean my rifle before and after every shoot, and if needed, during ... It is actually something I enjoy doing.

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2: From IMR's site, the powders I do have available are in the 71 to 100 range on their "comparative burn rate" chart ...

Would I be better off ignoring burn rate and selecting the powder that fills the case more? (This was what I was taught by my uncle when I started reloading 25 years ago ... "If you have two options, use the one that leaves the least amount of empty space in the case." ... I believe he may have said it had something to do with a more predictable burn pattern or dynamic within the case. Any truth to that?

But this advice was coming from the guy that was using a compressed load in his 22-250 ... I never did get used to the sound of powder making crunching noises as the bullet was seated :eek:

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3: Does powder go "bad" (or unstable in some way) from sitting? If it looks "normal", runs freely (not clumping), has been stored in a warm dry location and is otherwise visually unmarred (no rust on/in container), should it be safe to use? I've got a few containers that have been around for a very long time - I think one of them may even be marked with a 1976 production date :eek:

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I have a small selection of bullets on hand, 46gr, 50gr, 55gr & 60gr, and 4 powders to choose from ... with 16 combinations there, plus an average spread of a 2 to 3 grains from min to max for powder in most charts for each of those bullets and figuring I'd probably run that spread in .4 grain steps, that's maybe 5 or more loads for each of those 16 possibilities ... that's gettign up to 90+ combinations ... and a minimum of 5 rounds each for testing ... well ... :eek:

I'd like to try and eliminate at least two of the powders ... any suggestions? If your answer is "IMR###x sucks, don't use it" ... Please tell me why it sucks :)

Most shootign will be 75 to 200 yards ... mostly "paper" with the occasional vamint & coyote. I'd like to say I want to stretch this gun out to 500+/- yards, but at the moment, I dont have anywhere with that much room, so for now long range isn't really a factor.

Thanks!
 
I would pick two powders that came close to filling the cases, and load them in.5gr increments. I would start them at .010" to .015" from the lands. If the powders smell okay, and have no rusty appearance, they are probably safe to use, although they should be stored in a cool dry place.
 
Still smells like gun powder :D, no rust inside or outside of can, and by "warm" it's a basement, so actually relatively cool, but I meant never stored somewhere it could be frozen & thawed repeatedly.

Is seating the bullet in relation to the lands better than using the seating depths & overall length listed in the data sets for the various bullets?
 
3031 is fairly close to Benchmark (which is an excellent powder to use for the .223 from my experience) on Hodgdon's burn rate chart. Yous should be able to find a decent load with it.
 
I am currently using IMR4198 in my .223. I got this powder for its insensitivity to changes in hot and cold. The only thing I don't like about it is that it doesn't flow thru the powder measure with any accuracy. I find that I have to weigh each charge to ensure consistancy across the board. I think its 20.3 gr with a COAL of 1.76 and a seating depth .005" off the lands. This is out of a Savage Model 12 VLP 26" barrel and 1 in 9" twist. I have a pound of benchmark on the shelf next, so maybe the 3031 and 4198 should be your go getter powders.
 
Is seating the bullet in relation to the lands better than using the seating depths & overall length listed in the data sets for the various bullets?

In a word yes. The data you find listed is not based on your gun, and throat lengths vary considerably.
 
I've got lots of 4198 and 3031 handy ... and my Nosler book says the 3031 will be in the 80+ % case capacity range ...

won't be in the city until maybe september ... when I get there, I was hoping to pick up something heavier for bullets ... will check out the 69gr SMK's and RL15 as well ... if nothing else, it's more stock in the powder safe :)
 
In a word yes. The data you find listed is not based on your gun, and throat lengths vary considerably.

Good to know. I've been going off pre-tested recipes for most stuff, so who knows, maybe they already set it that way ... OAL was listed in them so that was what I went by.

Guess that will give me something to do tonight :)
 
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