.223 newb question

Jesse_L_B

Jesse_L_B

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Hi guys, i see people talking about neck sizing vs full-length sizing, can some one please explain what and how to do it. I have an rcbs 2 pc die set for my 223 do i need different dies or can i do it with this set. If i can do it with these dies please explain how. Brass is fired from my savage axis. Thanks a lot.
Jesse
 
Full length sizing is just that, you are sizing the entire cartridge back to the factory specs that your dies are machined to. When you fire a cartridge in your particular gun it "fire forms" to your gun, meaning that brass is now the exact same size as the chamber in your gun.

If you neck size only, it means that you are only compressing the neck of the brass back down and not the full length of the case. This is handy if you are going to be firing the rounds from the exact same gun every time. However, if you have more than one .223, you must full length size your brass because no two chambers are exactly the same and you could end up with a stuck cartridge when you put it into a rifle other than the one that it was fire formed in.

The benefit to neck sizing is that it takes that tiny bit of variance out of the shot that is the case expanding to the contour of the chamber. If you are a target shooter, this can be handy. If you are not going for the best level of accuracy possible, it's not overly necessary.

You can do it with the dies that you have.

In order to full length size you would raise your press up all the way, then turn the die down until it touches the cam of the press. Lower the press and turn the die down an additional 1/4 turn.
If you want to neck size only, you would complete the steps above and then turn the die back UP 1 full turn.

If you are going to neck size only, before running your brass through the die measure the diameter of the neck of the first cartridge at the tip and at the shoulder of the cartridge with a pair of calipers. Then run it through the die and measure it again, making sure that the diameter changes all the way down the neck. You want to make sure that you are sizing the entire neck and not just half of it. Some times you can see a faint line on the neck after sizing if it hasn't gone in far enough and you know that you need to turn the die down just a little further.

If you do end up needing to turn the die down further to size the whole neck, turn it down 1/8 turn at a time and run the cartridge through measuring each time until you get to the point that the full neck is being sized.

Hope this helps!
 
AndrewNS said:
You can do it with the dies that you have.

In order to full length size you would raise your press up all the way, then turn the die down until it touches the cam of the press. Lower the press and turn the die down an additional 1/4 turn.
If you want to neck size only, you would complete the steps above and then turn the die back UP 1 full turn.

If you are going to neck size only, before running your brass through the die measure the diameter of the neck of the first cartridge at the tip and at the shoulder of the cartridge with a pair of calipers. Then run it through the die and measure it again, making sure that the diameter changes all the way down the neck. You want to make sure that you are sizing the entire neck and not just half of it. Some times you can see a faint line on the neck after sizing if it hasn't gone in far enough and you know that you need to turn the die down just a little further.

If you do end up needing to turn the die down further to size the whole neck, turn it down 1/8 turn at a time and run the cartridge through measuring each time until you get to the point that the full neck is being sized.

Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

I believe the proper term for this is "Partial Full Length Sizing" or "Bumping the shoulder". Even if you back the die off a little it will still resize the body of the case somewhat. What it will not do is bump the shoulder back. When the shoulder is bumped back it causes the case to be squished up into the neck of the die. Then the case will have to be trimmed to the proper length again. When the case is fired once again it will stretch in length. This stretching will occur just above the case head and speed up the process of case head separation. Therefore if you can "Partial Full Length size" your brass you will prevent this stretching and trimming and increase the life of your brass. Its a good option if all you have is a FL die set, but it is best to get a Neck sizer that will resize the neck only and not touch the body of the brass. Some will argue that Partial full length resizing is just as good and I wouldn't argue that point, but neck sizing requires you to only lube the neck and is far easier. After neck sizing 5 or so time I find that I have to FL resize my brass anyway at which point I back my FL sizer out as much as I can while still allowing the brass to be chambered without any force. I hope I explained this properly as not to confuse anyone.

This might help

www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2Wt8-VqeAE

If you search YouTube there is batter videos I'm sure.
 
Last edited:
g-manz35 said:
I believe the proper term for this is "Partial Full Length Sizing" or "Bumping the shoulder". Even if you back the die off a little it will still resize the body of the case somewhat. What it will not do is bump the shoulder back. When the shoulder is bumped back it causes the case to be squished up into the neck of the die. Then the case will have to be trimmed to the proper length again. When the case is fired once again it will stretch in length. This stretching will occur just above the case head and speed up the process of case head separation. Therefore if you can "Partial Full Length size" your brass you will prevent this stretching and trimming and increase the life of your brass. Its a good option if all you have is a FL die set, but it is best to get a Neck sizer that will resize the neck only and not touch the body of the brass. Some will argue that Partial full length resizing is just as good and I wouldn't argue that point, but neck sizing requires you to only lube the neck and is far easier. After neck sizing 5 or so time I find that I have to FL resize my brass anyway at which point I back my FL sizer out as much as I can while still allowing the brass to be chambered without any force. I hope I explained this properly as not to confuse anyone.

This might help

www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2Wt8-VqeAE
Click to expand...


Good to know, thanks for the additional info! I'm always happy to learn more about the process from someone who is more knowledgeable than I am.
 
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