223 reloading help - constant case jams even with lube

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TacticalCanuck

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Hi CGN'ers

Ok, so I am obviously not doing something with my rifle reloading. I have managed to reload over 1k 223. But I have now broken parts on 2 dies, and for the third time today, i have a 223 shell stuck in the decapp resize die.

I lube with hornady case lube. I go smoooth then one just gets stuck. I find this extremely frustrating.

This is how my decap pins get broke. I need to hammer the shell out then cut it off the decapper (they never go over the neck resizer on the way out)

Let's keep it to constructive advise please.

I do certainly lube the cases. I usually do batches of 20, lined the same way, I hit the necks with the lube (its an aerosol spay) then I go to it.

As it sits now, I have a case jammed in my die, again. I'm running out of parts, and I don't believe that this process should go the way it has for me. I'm doing something wrong, and from all the videos (from hornady themselves) and reading, I'm doing my part. I understand an occassional jam - but multiple jams constantly every time I try to have a session?? Frustrating would call this frustrating!
 
Not sure what kind of lube you are using, but try something heavier and roll each case real good. Don't worry about over lubing them until they start coming out with dents just below the shoulder.


If the pins are breaking its because you have them down too far. Set the decapper at minimum , then adjust slowly and keep stroking until the primer comes all the way out.
 
I've only ever had one stuck case ,it was a lack of lube. I've been using lanolin and isopropyl since, and haven't had any problems.
Also, I've only broken one decap pin and that wa because of a Berdan primer.
Sounds like you have a die issue.
Try a different lube and see if that fixes your prob, if not then it's probably the dies.
 
I have had a similar problem with Hornady, on the out stroke. If you phone them and explain the problem, you can ask for a non-expanding pin button. It is just a pin holder that wont touch the neck.

As for the stuck case issue, I suggest a better lube and lube technique. I load thousands of 223 and have no stuck cases issues now that I use Lee Lube.
IMG_1556.jpg


If you have a bucket or two of brass to size, there is a fast efficient way to lube the cases. I lube 100 or so cases (rifle) at a time. Takes about 30 seconds. This technique is well suited for loading larger amounts of brass.

I use Lee case lube. It is a water soluble cream that is easy to clean off.

Dump brass in a plastic pail that has a lid.

lubebrass1.jpg


Then take a 1" worm of lube and smear it around the top inside wall of the pail.

lubebrass.jpg


Put lid on and swirl and shake for 15 seconds. This will lube all the cases and deposit a tiny dab on the case mouth, to lube the expander button.
 
I've used Ganderites method and it works 100%.
I've since switched to the lanolin and isopropyl , only because I wanted to try something diff.
I put about 30 or 40 pieces of brass in a margerine container, give it a couple of sprays and swirl them around. Works perfect.
 
Check each overall case length. Lube inside the case opening and be careful you are not bulging the case shoulder when seating the bullet.

Do you sort the cases by case brand and if not is it with one brand of case or is the problem random amount alternate brands?
 
9x19p said:
Are you lubing inside the neck?
Click to expand...

"This will lube all the cases and deposit a tiny dab on the case mouth, to lube the expander button."

The little dab on the mouth of just about every case is all the neck lube required.

However, with Hornady dies, I find it better to switch the button to a smaller calibre or to a pin holder that does not touch the neck.
 
This happens with Hornady One Shot case lube if you don't shake the bejeezus out of the can. After a while the bottom of the can gets so dented that I think a heavy portion of the lube will not break free and mix in. Basically what is happening is you're dousing the cases mostly in the carrier and as they dry you have less and less lube on your cases. The inevitable result is a stuck case. I bet you're noticing cases start out smooth and gradually feel stickier in the press, especially the beginning of the down stroke when you're breaking the case free, until one finally says nope and your shellholder goes home without it. If 3 mins or more shaking the can doesn't fix the issue, its time to throw that can away and use a new one or switch to a different lube. Ganderite's method works like a snap and is dirt cheap. Just be sure to clean and oil your dies before storing for longer periods if using Lee lube. It's water based and will cause rust if left in the die too long, depending on your humidity.
 
I use a method similar to Ganderite as well. But rather than using the Lee lube (nothing wrong with that), I use a quick squirt of PAM cooking spray oil. It's cheap and works really well. A can will last a long time. Just be careful not to use too much. I find a quick burst is good for 50-75 cases of .223 or 35-50 cases of .308. Then do the shake thing with the closed container for about 30 seconds and you're ready for the sizing die.

Also, if you do a lot of reloading, it pays to invest in a stuck case removal kit that way you don't have to damage your die or any parts of it. You make it up yourself from readily available parts or purchase it commercially.
 
I use Lyman case lube and works like a charm with 223 brass. I initially got a case or two stuck when using Lee lube. Doesn't seem to be as slick compared to the Lyman's case lube.
 
9x19p said:
Are you lubing inside the neck?
Click to expand...

Ganderite said:
"This will lube all the cases and deposit a tiny dab on the case mouth, to lube the expander button."

The little dab on the mouth of just about every case is all the neck lube required.

However, with Hornady dies, I find it better to switch the button to a smaller calibre or to a pin holder that does not touch the neck.
Click to expand...

I replied just after you, I was however asking the op. I like your method, though prefer mine.
I use a lube pad, touching the case mouth to the pad, then using residual from my fingers to lube the case. Less is more for me.
 
Ganderite said:
I have had a similar problem with Hornady, on the out stroke. If you phone them and explain the problem, you can ask for a non-expanding pin button. It is just a pin holder that wont touch the neck.

As for the stuck case issue, I suggest a better lube and lube technique. I load thousands of 223 and have no stuck cases issues now that I use Lee Lube.
IMG_1556.jpg


If you have a bucket or two of brass to size, there is a fast efficient way to lube the cases. I lube 100 or so cases (rifle) at a time. Takes about 30 seconds. This technique is well suited for loading larger amounts of brass.

I use Lee case lube. It is a water soluble cream that is easy to clean off.

Dump brass in a plastic pail that has a lid.

lubebrass1.jpg


Then take a 1" worm of lube and smear it around the top inside wall of the pail.

lubebrass.jpg


Put lid on and swirl and shake for 15 seconds. This will lube all the cases and deposit a tiny dab on the case mouth, to lube the expander button.
Click to expand...


This is the way to lube 223, not a single stuck case and thousands processed in days. So much easier, then after sizing ss wet tumble for like new brass.
 
Thanks CGN'ers.

Supernova -s ounds like I may not be shaking the bejeezus out of the hornady lube....the problem described is exactly how the cookie crumbles....I do give it a good shake, but my opinion of a good shake isn't the same as hornady's it appears ;)

Ganderite, thanks for the quick tutorial, I am going to give this method a try, too many people agree with it to pass over the suggestion. The shell I got stuck in there right now is a doozer, it seized up right at the top....I will probably lose my last pin getting it out....'

so thanks to the stuck case removal tool suggestion - seems it is a good tool for the tool box, one I hope not to need once I sort out my bad lubing job (oh the jokes going through my head right now)

I have loaded thousands of pistol rounds with zero issues, and 223 was my first foray into rifle.

I have sorted brass by head stamp, the issue is with all brass, but auguila (that mexican stuff) is particularly awful. Factory loads shoot well enough, but the brass seems to be softer than others.

I follow these steps to reload 223 brass

1. Tumble
2. Decap/resize
3. measure and trim (deburr as well)
4. Load em
5. Choot em!

My guess is this is satisfactory?

Thanks everyone, all the feedback has been great and is appreciated.
 
OP I read your first post and you state that you spray the the neck and then get at it. Do you spray the case body as well? If not that would be your problem.
 
hunter5425 said:
OP I read your first post and you state that you spray the the neck and then get at it. Do you spray the case body as well? If not that would be your problem.
Click to expand...

x2

I do a thousand at a time on my Dillon 650, so I just put about 200 in a plastic tray or pail, and spray about 5-6 good sprays from a pump sprayer filled with lanolin and 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, then mix around with my hand.

I used to use RCBS lube and pad... terribly slow and messy lube, also very hard to get off the cases. Switched to home made lanolin and never looked back.

I have never ever had a stuck case in almost 30 years of reloading..
 
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