I've been wanting to set up my backup .308 Rem 700 as a .223 trainer. I've got a bolt for it with a .223 bolt face and a takeoff .223 factory barrel. What're the odds that if I source a factory recoil lug I could just torque the barrel on and check headspace with a go and no-go (or field?) gauge and be good to go? Thanks for any and all help/advice
.223 trainer out of backup .308 Rem 700?
- Thread starter rugbydave
- Start date
Very good. I've done that and everything was good to go. CNC machining makes such things possible. You may not get a match grade fit but should be close enough. If you really want to get anal, have the thread tenon extended and add a "Jam Nut" similar to the ones used on Savage and other rifles. Those jam nuts are a good idea for rigs such as the one you propose to put together. Makes it very easy to switch barrels and cartridge types with different bolt face diameters. I have seen a couple of such rifles. They seem like a good idea for the person that only wants or can afford one rifle.
With the proper wrench the barrels can be changed out quickly.
Alas there is a fly in the ointment. Every time the barrel/bolt is changed out you are basically starting over as far as accuracy goes. One neat trick is to load up a dummy round to tighten up the barrel to by hand, then lock it in place with the jam nut. This closely controls headspace between changes and if you have "mate marks" to match up to accuracy should be the same as it was the last time the barrel was on. Keeping records of scope settings with each barrel should make it easier as well.
One other fly in the system is the stock bedding. Every time you change barrels the receiver needs to be removed from the stock This is detrimental to the bedding and eventually loosens the fit.
With the proper wrench the barrels can be changed out quickly.
Alas there is a fly in the ointment. Every time the barrel/bolt is changed out you are basically starting over as far as accuracy goes. One neat trick is to load up a dummy round to tighten up the barrel to by hand, then lock it in place with the jam nut. This closely controls headspace between changes and if you have "mate marks" to match up to accuracy should be the same as it was the last time the barrel was on. Keeping records of scope settings with each barrel should make it easier as well.
One other fly in the system is the stock bedding. Every time you change barrels the receiver needs to be removed from the stock This is detrimental to the bedding and eventually loosens the fit.
The machining of the feed rails is different, .308 sized receiver vs .223 sized.
I do not know if a .308 receiver will feed .223 rounds reliably from the Remington factory ADL/BDL magazine. If you are using something like an AICS magazine system, with single position feed, this is irrelevant.
The locknut barrel system does allow barrels to be installed/swapped. Then again, a shouldered barrel only needs to be fitted once, and then can be removed and replaced without any adjustment. It can even be possible to remove, replace and change barrels without removing the action from the stock, depending on the forend inletting.
If you are swapping bolts and barrels, make sure that bolt nose clearance and lug seating are satisfactory.
It is not unusual to be able to swap Remington factory barrels and have correct headspace. It is not likely that markings or sights will be properly oriented, if that matters.
I do not know if a .308 receiver will feed .223 rounds reliably from the Remington factory ADL/BDL magazine. If you are using something like an AICS magazine system, with single position feed, this is irrelevant.
The locknut barrel system does allow barrels to be installed/swapped. Then again, a shouldered barrel only needs to be fitted once, and then can be removed and replaced without any adjustment. It can even be possible to remove, replace and change barrels without removing the action from the stock, depending on the forend inletting.
If you are swapping bolts and barrels, make sure that bolt nose clearance and lug seating are satisfactory.
It is not unusual to be able to swap Remington factory barrels and have correct headspace. It is not likely that markings or sights will be properly oriented, if that matters.
Thanks all. The stock bedding is not an issue as it is in a chassis, same for feeding from adl/bdl as it feeds with AICS mags. I'm also not planning on switching back and forth very often as this is my backup rig, I just want to maintain the ability to do so if at some point the need arises. As far as go gauges go, I'm thinking my best option would be to get a Go and Field gauge? Make sure it closes on the Go and not on the Field? Also, where is a good place to source a factory recoil lug or is it likely that the current (factory) recoil lug I'm using should just work fine? Also what is a generally accepted torque value when installing a barrel?
As well, any suggestions on barrel vises and action wrenches? I've been meaning to get them anyways as my match rifle has a pinned lug and I'll be getting a few more barrels spun up for it eventually.
As well, any suggestions on barrel vises and action wrenches? I've been meaning to get them anyways as my match rifle has a pinned lug and I'll be getting a few more barrels spun up for it eventually.
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Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Send me an Email and I can offer some suggestions on how to set this up.
Jerry
Jerry
Because in all likelihood this rifle will spend the VAST majority of it's time in .223 form. I'm just wanting to keep the ability to use the .308 barrel/bolt that is currently on it if for whatever reason somewhere down the line I need a .308 (say my match rifle goes down in the week before a match or is away at the smith's). I don't see why this would throw my load development off if I torque the barrel to the same spec each time anyways? Also, realistically, setting it up like this should at this point cost me (maybe) a recoil lug, some go/no-go gauges, mags and a vise/receiver wrench vs buying a new receiver, rail, trigger...
