I don't actually own any guns yet, but while I'm waiting for C-19's Royal Assent, I started picking up shooting supplies and accessories. Just yesterday I picked up a Hoppe's Boresnake and then bought an actual Outers cleaning kit today for more thorough cleaning, which includes a three piece rod, phosphor bronze brush, mop, jag, loop, patches, solvent, and lube. I plan on making my first gun a lever action .22LR, will the rod now be useless because I can't insert it from the breach? Do manufacturers use proprietary threads for their rods/mops/brushes/etc. which would prevent me from purchasing a cable (from another manufacturer) for the brushes and pads?
.22LR Cleaning (Did I just waste money?)
- Thread starter jlagman
- Start date
Member since '09, and no guns yet? Ummm... I'm sure there's a story there...
Anyway, many guns are cleaned from the muzzle with cleaning rods. Some are even designed that way. You'll get many opinions on how to clean your barrel, and one of the very common opinions is "method doesn't matter very much". Another is "don't clean it too often". Another is "don't clean it".
IMHO, unless it's a match grade barrel (and you're talking lever action, so my guess is yours will not fall in this category), careful cleaning from the muzzle will not be a problem. Just be careful to avoid nicking the muzzle crown with any sharp edges of the brush or rod on the way in. Damage to the crown can be detrimental to accuracy.
For extra neat freak points, you can remove the brush, mop, or jag once it clears the breech instead of pulling it back through to the muzzle. In theory, you're avoiding dragging dirty bits back into the barrel. In practice, I highly doubt that you'd notice the difference with a fun gun.
Proprietary threading? Not sure, but it wouldn't surprise me.
I have both, since buying the snake, I almost never use the kit. My mossberg is the same why and can only be cleaned mussle to breach. The snake lets me clean the right direction. Imo, for our .22s, the snake is great.
The threads are 8-32 and standard for most .22 and .30 cal cleaning supplies. Outers uses plastic bits that I dont really like. They work but are flimsy, brass is my preference. When cleaning from the muzzle, use a muzzle guide to protect the crown. Theyre only a couple bucks and save you from having to dissasemble the gun. To keep all the crud from the barrel from getting in the action, lay a piece of paper towel in the breech to catch it all. Thats how I do my 10/22 between complete tear-downs. I use a tipton carbon fiber rod and tipton brass jag set. Brushing usually isnt necessary on a .22
Since September of this year. As for why I've been a member for 2 years without actually owning any guns, what can I say? It's all a matter of timing for me. I sat on my hands for a while before doing the safety course and getting my (R)PAL and once I finally did that, I decided it was close enough after the Federal Election that I would wait until a bill to repeal the LGR was passed before I actually bought my first gun.
I'd also like to add that I am actually a member of both the CSSA and NFA and I have donated to the Operation Turf Mark Holland despite not actually living in the Pickering/Ajax riding, though close enough that I physically showed up to support for Chris Alexander's campaign with some fellow CGNers. I have also encouraged friends to try the shooting sports and even talked a few into taking the CFSC and eventually getting their PALs. Don't worry guys, I am on your side.
Everything is on the up and up with the op. I saw him at a bunch of the turf mark holland town hall meetings. Really good guy. Like I told you at the meetings you are more than welcome to come to the range with me anytime and I'll bring a bunch of things for you to try. Don't worry about some members here questioning your being here without guns yet, we all are a little curious about some people with all the cgc trolls on here lately
No worries Neal and no apologies necessary from anyone else, I can understand a little "paranoia" arising from media sources using posts on a private forum against us as of late. And I've been on teh interwebz long enough to develop thick enough e-skin as to not let the little things bother me.
I'll shoot you a PM sometime for some trigger time, I may end up joining TMC in February so I may see some of the other TMH supporters I met from time-to-time.
I don't worry too much about cleaning .22 cal. All i use is a brass brush about every other shooting trip. A .22 round is lubricated with wax and doesn't shoot fast enough velocity to have lead fouling. Having that said, nothing wrong with a quick brush, a patch and a lube, including an oil wipe on the outside.
DarceMegarce
Regular
- Location
- Chatham-Kent
For my Cooey 39 I just use a length of plastic weed wacker wire with a knot tied in one end that I thread a couple patches on to with a few drops of Hoppes #9 oil. That happens every 250-500 rounds. The bolt and outside surfaces get a wipe before every storage as well. I just use the same old shirt which has gotten oil impregnated in it over time. That and a few toothpicks and some q-tips is all you really need to keep everything clean if you stick to lead.
I just may end up making a third visit to LeBaron this week while their no tax sale still applies. Truth be told, the Outers cleaning kit only cost me like $8 and after doing a bit more research, I'm liking the Otis flavour of Kool-Aid. I'll keep the rods for any rimfire pistols or bolt-action rifles that I purchase in the future.
I use a the outers rod with my Henry lever .22. It's very easy to remove the receiver cover and clean from the breach. On my 30-30 I clean from the muzzle because it's not as simple. No problems with doing it that way. The gun still shoots great and it's 41 years old.
I'm fairly new to this lifestyle/hobby/sport, but I've done a lot of searching to find what works for others and what doesn't when cleaning and maintaining a firearm. If you guys have tips to add, or disagree with these below, please add your 2 cents.
CLEANING/MAINTENANCE TIPS:
1. It is important to get a rigid steel cleaning rod coated in plastic, with a swivel handle. This will protect the bore and crown from being scratched up, and the swivel will help to clean the grooves of the bore better when you are pushing it through. Not very many kits have these plastic coated rods, but I managed to find one made by Outers.
2. Avoid using metal brushes because they are abrasive (even bronze is abrasive to a certain degree). You should only need to use 1" x 1" cotton patches for your .22. If you have to use a brush, go with a nylon one. Be sure to use plastic jags for the same reason.
3. If the bore has been badly neglected, you might have no choice but to use a bronze brush. I would still try to use a nylon brush first before going with a bronze brush. It helps to use a good bore cleaner in this situation, and it helps to give it some time to soak in (so it can penetrate into the fouling better).
4. When using a bronze brush never change the direction of the brush when it is inside the barrel. Push the bronze brush all the way through, out the other side, before you begin to pull it back through. Changing direction while inside the bore causes a lot of abrasion.
5. Use brake cleaner (be careful; can damage plastics), or a non-toxic product called "Simple Green" (you can find it at Canadian Tire) to degrease and clean new firearms, or when you're doing a very thorough cleaning every now, and then.
6. Use a good CLP that has Teflon in it (makes actions smoother, and prevents wear and tear) to re-lube all metal parts with. It's always a good idea to shake it well before applying (Teflon can sink to the bottom of the bottle/can). It Cleans, Lubricates moving parts, and Protects against rust. The more you use it (reapplying it without removing the earlier application), the smoother the operation/action of your firearm will be. This is because it takes time for the Teflon to work its way into the metal.
8. If you need to clean parts that are hard to breakdown (like a magazine), you can use something called dry lube (contains graphite). It helps to prevent dirt from sticking to the lube; buying you extra time before you have to clean it again. Some people use dry lube if they live in very dry and windy areas where there is a lot of dust. I prefer to use CLP instead of dry lube. It protects and performs better, and I don't live in that type of environment.
CLEANING/MAINTENANCE TIPS:
1. It is important to get a rigid steel cleaning rod coated in plastic, with a swivel handle. This will protect the bore and crown from being scratched up, and the swivel will help to clean the grooves of the bore better when you are pushing it through. Not very many kits have these plastic coated rods, but I managed to find one made by Outers.
2. Avoid using metal brushes because they are abrasive (even bronze is abrasive to a certain degree). You should only need to use 1" x 1" cotton patches for your .22. If you have to use a brush, go with a nylon one. Be sure to use plastic jags for the same reason.
3. If the bore has been badly neglected, you might have no choice but to use a bronze brush. I would still try to use a nylon brush first before going with a bronze brush. It helps to use a good bore cleaner in this situation, and it helps to give it some time to soak in (so it can penetrate into the fouling better).
4. When using a bronze brush never change the direction of the brush when it is inside the barrel. Push the bronze brush all the way through, out the other side, before you begin to pull it back through. Changing direction while inside the bore causes a lot of abrasion.
5. Use brake cleaner (be careful; can damage plastics), or a non-toxic product called "Simple Green" (you can find it at Canadian Tire) to degrease and clean new firearms, or when you're doing a very thorough cleaning every now, and then.
6. Use a good CLP that has Teflon in it (makes actions smoother, and prevents wear and tear) to re-lube all metal parts with. It's always a good idea to shake it well before applying (Teflon can sink to the bottom of the bottle/can). It Cleans, Lubricates moving parts, and Protects against rust. The more you use it (reapplying it without removing the earlier application), the smoother the operation/action of your firearm will be. This is because it takes time for the Teflon to work its way into the metal.
8. If you need to clean parts that are hard to breakdown (like a magazine), you can use something called dry lube (contains graphite). It helps to prevent dirt from sticking to the lube; buying you extra time before you have to clean it again. Some people use dry lube if they live in very dry and windy areas where there is a lot of dust. I prefer to use CLP instead of dry lube. It protects and performs better, and I don't live in that type of environment.
Muzzle/Breach
If you're really worried, you can run the rod from the muzzle to the breech, and then screw in a shortened brush.
Or you can clean like most folks, and clean up around the action.
You're overthinking it. Shoot, clean, shoot.
If you're really worried, you can run the rod from the muzzle to the breech, and then screw in a shortened brush.
Or you can clean like most folks, and clean up around the action.
You're overthinking it. Shoot, clean, shoot.
