22lr revolver question
- Thread starter Dsiwy
- Start date
- Location
- West Quebec
I switched ammo and it's much better with CCI ammo
My wife spays a little bit of this in her fancy mag loader for her Ruger Mark III. Keeps the rounds from sticking up and they slide real nice from the loader into the mag. I should try it on my revolvers too because I have the same issues.
Only be careful not to use anything like this on centre fire rounds. You don't want any lube on them at all!
Mine does that too. It's partially the ammo and partially the tightness in the chambers that aids in a more accurate shooting gun. So I would not polish them out with anything abrasive.
The guys with S&W K22's, 17's and 617's have the same issue.
Instead do what a few of us do and bring along a .22cal bore brush on a short extension rod. When the chambers become sticky pull the base pin and slip out the cylinder and give each chamber a couple or three passes with the bore brush. If this takes you more than a minute and a half to shuck it out, brush it and have it back in and ready for reloading just practice a little.
With the dry brushed chambers you'll be good to go with another 100 or so. And every such dry brushing will keep you going for around 100 more each time.
And finding which ammo fits better also helps. There's some seriously out of spec *insert bad name here* stuff out there right now. If you really must shoot the stuff that sticks easier because you can't get anything else the only recourse is to clean more frequently and bring along that dry brush and extension rod.
The guys with S&W K22's, 17's and 617's have the same issue.
Instead do what a few of us do and bring along a .22cal bore brush on a short extension rod. When the chambers become sticky pull the base pin and slip out the cylinder and give each chamber a couple or three passes with the bore brush. If this takes you more than a minute and a half to shuck it out, brush it and have it back in and ready for reloading just practice a little.
With the dry brushed chambers you'll be good to go with another 100 or so. And every such dry brushing will keep you going for around 100 more each time.
And finding which ammo fits better also helps. There's some seriously out of spec *insert bad name here* stuff out there right now. If you really must shoot the stuff that sticks easier because you can't get anything else the only recourse is to clean more frequently and bring along that dry brush and extension rod.
Most definitely it's bronze or brass bristles all the way.
Never, never, never use any steel bristle brushes on chambers or bore. IF the steel of the brush is softer than the gun parts you're OK. But you're taking one helluva gamble on that being the case from gun to gun.
Single Six cylinders are tight. Bought Winchester 333's had to sort the box to find which would go. Had the odd CCI and REM not go either, and have had a few hard to get out. Found after five or so times cleaning it with JB's seems to have stopped doing it.
JB bore paste is actually a light and fine grade abrasive. So depending on how aggressively you "cleaned it" then you likely removed some metal. If done with power tools this would be a significant amount. If only wiped through by hand then likely you just polished off some of the roughness with little to no size difference.
Which brings up the idea that a truly smooth and shiny looking surface will allow the cases to slide both in and out better than a rough finish with visible cross hatching or other machining marks. Something like Flitz or Mother's mag wheel polish on a snug fitting patch and jag worked through by hand or at very low speed on a hand drill will smooth up a coarse looking finish. Go easy and keep the thing moving fully back and forth though. If you remove too much from the middle of the chamber the cases can swell out into the hollow and lock in place nicely which makes things worse instead of better.
Which brings up the idea that a truly smooth and shiny looking surface will allow the cases to slide both in and out better than a rough finish with visible cross hatching or other machining marks. Something like Flitz or Mother's mag wheel polish on a snug fitting patch and jag worked through by hand or at very low speed on a hand drill will smooth up a coarse looking finish. Go easy and keep the thing moving fully back and forth though. If you remove too much from the middle of the chamber the cases can swell out into the hollow and lock in place nicely which makes things worse instead of better.
Defiantly by hand, and only tops 5 or so times With JB's. Any kind of aluminum polish will work and less aggressive. Just want to polish the bores up not start taking material away. You can also just live with it they should wear in over time.
