.233 reloading

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Dom08

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Hey guys
Recently started to reload .223 rounds
We are using h-varget powder with 55grain fmj.
The canister calls for 27.5 grains! This literally fills the case almost to the top. I felt that was too much so I brought it down to a 24.9 grain load.

Any thoughts? I shot about 80 rounds. Seemed to shoot well.
What about the "factory crimp" dies to crimp the case to the projectile? I've been using it but looking at Winchester rounds it doesn't look like they crimo the rounds. What do you guys use?
 
You need to get a reloading manual. While 24.9 gn of Varget is a safe load, it is the starting load (25 gn) in my Lyman manual. You may want to test some heavier loads to see how your rifle shoots. Work up by 0.3 or 0.5 gn increments maintaining the same catridge OAL.

Regarding crimping, I don't crimp for any of my 223 rifles. Unless your neck tension is really inconsistent or the rounds are going to see some rough use, you don't need to crimp.
 
What firearm are you loading for? For me, I reload .223 Rem differently for an AR than I do for a bolt-action gun - both in terms of brass preparation, primers used (to minimize risk of slamfire in semi-auto, AR-style firearms - I use CCI BR4), projectiles (I like 55 and 75 grain rounds, and have been using cannelured rounds recently in my AR and really like them), and even powders (I save my Varget for my .308 bolt gun, and use Benchmark for my AR).

Also, 2 critical pieces of reloading equipment that are critical for your safety and those around you:
1) Quality reloading data - I personally use the Hornady manual and hodgdonreloading.com. Need powder charge and COL (cartridge overall length) data for your specific projectile combination.

2) A good set of digital calipers and/or case gauges. I have the slotted case gauges from Sheridan Engineering and they are fabulous to ensure the resized case and finished round are within SAAMI specs. I found a reloading error I was making (seating die turned into the press too deep) that was compressing the shoulders of my .223 cases and causing feed issues in my AR - easy to visualize when you have a slotted gauge to simulate how the round actually chambers.

Mindset: approach max loads with caution, start 10% low and work up, looking for pressure signs. If you don't know what to look for, do some research and you'll find some great resources on primer cratering, primer flattening, extractor marks, etc.

Keep posting questions on CGN - there are some very knowledgeable people here willing to share their experience.
 
Also - for safety - avoid interchanging .223 Rem and 5.56 Nato data. My AR is chambered for .223 Rem (a Windham VEX) - whereas many ARs are chambered for the higher pressure 5.56 Nato round.
 
I shoot a tavor
I do have the data book that came with my lee press set. I have a digital caliber to measure the cases and Overall length which I check every 10-20 rounds made.

Shooting the reloaded rounds I found a softer shot vs shooting the Winchester rounds. Had no FAilure to feed or Failure to extract.
 
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Dom08 said:
...I have a digital caliber to measure the cases and Overall length which I check every 10-20 rounds made.
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A caliper isn't sufficient to measure the cases for headspacing since you need to measure from the specified datum point on the case shoulder to the base. For measuring case headspace, a case gauge is the easiest solution, that will also be useful to check for case length for trimming purposes (although the caliper is fine for this as well).

You will find that softer shot or harder recoiling, there will be some powder loads for a given rifle/bullet/powder/primer combination that shoots most accurately. For overall plinking, experimenting with loads is half the fun.
 
Dom08 said:
I shoot a tavor
Click to expand...

Don't forget my T97!
Might as well throw an AR into the mix too, since one of us will probably add an AR to the collection in the near future.

Pr589 said:
For overall plinking, experimenting with loads is half the fun.
Click to expand...

That's a good call, and part of the excitement of reloading. Some good info in here already.
 
A good case trimmer is almost a necessity with .223. Two or three full length resizes and your case will be totally out-of-whack. Calipers will tell you your case length but again, a good reason to have a go-nogo case gauge. Oh and crimping only really works on .223 if there is a cannelure otherwise you are more likely to just crush the case neck (my experience anyway).

I use varget powder through once fired norinco brass, with 55gr hornady bullets with cannelure and I find my reloads to run about 100% for feeding and proper extracting, and probably 95% reliability on the surplus stuff.
 
Dom08 said:
Hey guys
Recently started to reload .223 rounds
We are using h-varget powder with 55grain fmj.
The canister calls for 27.5 grains! This literally fills the case almost to the top. I felt that was too much so I brought it down to a 24.9 grain load.

Any thoughts? I shot about 80 rounds. Seemed to shoot well.
What about the "factory crimp" dies to crimp the case to the projectile? I've been using it but looking at Winchester rounds it doesn't look like they crimo the rounds. What do you guys use?
Click to expand...

Everyone says Varget rules, it really is not the best powder for 223 at all. Hey some 8208XBR or H4895, or even blc2, ramshot tac, benchmark, 4198, or even h332. Varget is a medium slow burning powder, some say it's ok for 223, it might be alright for heavier bullets, but it's certainly not ideal at all.

Get a loading manual too by the way, and remember, that max load on the can was determined using certain brass,, probably very thin brass as that load is extremely compressed, I personally could not even fit that much in a case and get a bullet seated properly.
 
Dom08 said:
I shoot a tavor
I do have the data book that came with my lee press set. I have a digital caliber to measure the cases and Overall length which I check every 10-20 rounds made.

Shooting the reloaded rounds I found a softer shot vs shooting the Winchester rounds. Had no FAilure to feed or Failure to extract.
Click to expand...

It would certainly be a softer recoil... you are probably pushing those bullets at a comparably slow velocity. You really should look at a faster powder for those bullets
 
Use a good reloading manual. In fact, get several. After loading 1000s of rounds with 50, 52, and 55gr varmint bullets I like all of W748, BLC2 and H335. They are all ball powders and meter very well. There is no requirement to crimp. Some ways to enhance results; keep cases trimmed to uniform length, de-burr flash holes, sort cases by make, firing cycles and weight. For a bolt gun you can even necksize brass which has been fired in the same rifle. It's a good idea to FL resize for an autoloader and make sure that primers are seated below flush with the casehead.
 
Varget is awesome in .223, but for heavier bullets - 70ish grains and up.
I wouldn't waste it on 55 grain FMJ - there are lots of better options for that, some already mentioned here.
The best part of using a quicker burning powder, is you will optimize the bullet with the powder, and use less of it.
As an example, my varget load for a 77 gr. SMK is 24 grains, my typical 55 gr. FMJ load is 23.5 gr. of H335.

Nothing wrong with crimping all rounds that are used in an AR, even match bullets without canalures.
Also nothing wrong with using all types of primers (205m are my favourite for match loads), but you need to pay attention to proper seating of primers to below rim of case (as with all ammo you produce).
 
beltfed said:
Varget is awesome in .223, but for heavier bullets - 70ish grains and up.
I wouldn't waste it on 55 grain FMJ - there are lots of better options for that, some already mentioned here.
The best part of using a quicker burning powder, is you will optimize the bullet with the powder, and use less of it.
As an example, my varget load for a 77 gr. SMK is 24 grains, my typical 55 gr. FMJ load is 23.5 gr. of H335.

Nothing wrong with crimping all rounds that are used in an AR, even match bullets without canalures.
Also nothing wrong with using all types of primers (205m are my favourite for match loads), but you need to pay attention to proper seating of primers to below rim of case (as with all ammo you produce).
Click to expand...

Have you tried other powders though for those bullets? I've no doubt you are getting accurate loads, but I bet you could get more velocity out of them with a different powder. Also, at 24 grains, are you compressed? Can't remember what my loads were exactly, but I do know that to come close to the velocity I got with 8208XBR I had to have a seriously compressed load, such makes seating to the same cbto length harder.

Also, about crimping, I wouldn't bother unless you notice you are having bullets moving around. Next time at the range, chamber a round and eject it, and pocket it. Do it to three or four and take them home and compare them to the original measurement (measure those four before you go and Mark them). Then fire a couple rounds and save the last one or two from the mag, do that twice, and take them home too. If they moved around then put as light a crimp on as you can possibly do and have no movement.

Crimping is never good for accuracy. It may not be horrible, depending on the gun and the bullet, but it won't help for sure, unless your bullets are moving around then of course it will increase consistency.

You should look into getting an rcbs precision Mic or the Hornady headspace tool to check the base to shoulder datum point distance, compare your fired cases to your sized ones - you want them to have that shoulder set back about 3 to 5 thou. Any more and you are causing unnecessary wear and stretching on your brass.
 
Somerset Bar said:
A good case trimmer is almost a necessity with .223. Two or three full length resizes and your case will be totally out-of-whack. Calipers will tell you your case length but again, a good reason to have a go-nogo case gauge. Oh and crimping only really works on .223 if there is a cannelure otherwise you are more likely to just crush the case neck (my experience anyway).

I use varget powder through once fired norinco brass, with 55gr hornady bullets with cannelure and I find my reloads to run about 100% for feeding and proper extracting, and probably 95% reliability on the surplus stuff.
Click to expand...

The Lee factory crimp die can crimp non cannelured (is that even a word?) Bullets just fine. It just doesn't help your accuracy unless your bullets are being pushed into or out of the case by the recoil.
 
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