25 MOA rail used with scope that has 40 MOA elevation

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Ordered a 25 MOA rail used with scope that has 40 MOA elevation, the wrong rail I think

I rarely shoot past 100 yards.

If I keep this rail would I have enough scope adjustment to shoot properly at 100 yards and closer

Scope specs say 40 MOA elevation adjustment with click value 1/4 MOA

My math says to take out 25 MOA I would need 100 clicks of adjustment down to be the same as a 0 MOA scope rail and it would still leave me with 15 MOA of adjustment

Is that right, or should I just return and get a 0 MOA rail.

I'd lose $40 in shipping and a restocking fee of $15

Any help would be appreciated
 
If you're shooting to a maximum of 100 yards, you usually don't need a canted rail. Does the scope have 40 MOA adjustment in total? A scope with 40 MOA of elevation adjustment is 20 up and 20 down, which is not a lot.
 
Most 22 rimfires with a fifty yard zero will only require 6.5 to 7.0 moa of adjustment for 100 yard shooting. Your good to approximately 175 yds with 20 moa of elevation. Id be getting zero moa for your requirements. Post the rail on the EE and you might not lose as much or even be able to make a trade with someone?
 
You would just be stealing all the travel above the crosshair instead of below. Most rails have a portion removed for the ejection of cases and many guns have different profiles for the front and rear mounting of bases or rails. Screw spacing could pose another problem.
 
Above is correct, rail is made to install one way only.

I ordered the 0 MOA mount.

When I get EE access I will sell it.

Thanks for the advice
 
I have mounted a number of scopes on both rim fires and on centre fires of various ages. Is not a "slam dunk" that when you install that scope on your rifle, and then "sight it in" that you will be centered on the scope adjustments. Might be to left or to right, might be up or down - is a thing about the precision that top of receiver was milled, polished then finished, and same with underside of the "rail" - might be okay - you might truly be half way on your scope adjustments - or might not be.

Think of two tubes, one inside the other - at least older scopes were made like that - you got maximum left-right adjustment when you were closest to centre on the vertical. If you needed to adjust extreme up or down - moved that inner tube close to outer tube - then would loose a lot of left - right adjustment.

Is difference, I guess, in how scopes are used - used to be a "battle" to get sighted in - so did not really like to adjust scope turrets after that. I have at least one older German scope that does not have a windage turret - windage is set with the base part - so not going to be adjusting that "on the fly". An acquaintance has an older scope that has no turrets - all adjusting / sighting in is done in the mounting and installation. More modern shooters seem to want to turn turrets for most shots - to raise for range, or left-right for wind. Old school was more like iron sights - learned to aim "off" to hit, whereas more modern is to want to "click" turrets and then hold dead on, to hit. So sometimes can get better performance by mods to the base mounting onto the rifle - is not always within the scope itself.
 
Most people have the opposite problem of not enough elevation and a common fix is to use Burris “Z” rings with the shim inserts to increase the elevation. In this case you could use the shims to reverse some of your cant to level your scope.
 
45C said:
Could you flip the rail around?
Click to expand...

LoL, nope. In this case, if he installed the rail normally, his point of impact will probably be high with his elevation bottomed out. Reversed, and PoI will be low with turret topped out. A 15moa rail would likely work nicely.
 
Op's post does not say what cartridge his rifle is chambered for - "rarely shoots past 100 yards". I would think so long as is nothing too goofy in machining on the scope base ("rail") nor with the receiver, that about normal "0" MOA cant bases (or "rail") would suit his needs? I am basing that on .22 Long Rifle - so normally sighted in to be "on" at 50 or 60 yards - would not often be trouble to raise that to 100 yards, without any other special parts?? But mis-machined bases or receiver might not even allow 50 yard sighting in - the nature of the job?
 
Since you have it try it, maybe it works. Maybe a small shim under front makes it work. Maybe it doesn’t and you sell/trade on EE. What model/brand is it for?
 
What type of scope are you using that only has 40 moa of elevation adjustment? Another thing to check is to move the elevation turret from bottom to top (or vice versa) and see how much actual elevation travel your individual scope has, it does vary from scope to scope. A general rule of thumb that has worked well for me is to use a rail that has half the moa of your scope travel. So a 20 moa rail with a 40 moa scope may be close. If not the CZ 457 is very popular, you should have no problems selling your rail if necessary.
 
Using a Weaver KASPA 4-12 I got from Dr. Deals
Sold the rail on Gun Post this morning, reordered a 0 MOA from Tillsonburg gun shop.
 
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Used the Burris Z-Rings inserts and with the 20+ and 20- and a short spacing, over 40 MOA was achieved.
This is almost too much as my cross hairs are low in the sight picture which probably causes some distortion on the outer edge. May change out one of the 20's for 10's.
 
horseman2 said:
Used the Burris Z-Rings inserts and with the 20+ and 20- and a short spacing, over 40 MOA was achieved.
This is almost too much as my cross hairs are low in the sight picture which probably causes some distortion on the outer edge. May change out one of the 20's for 10's.
Click to expand...

I've done similar on various rifles to get them where I want them to be, used to be the easiest way to get a 308 to range out to 1000 without having to drop a lot of money. - dan
 
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