.25 stevens to .22lr

antiqueguy

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I have an old stevens favourite that has been sitting around that I’d now like to get going.

Thinking of getting a new extractor/ejector for it for .22lr and relining the barrel possibly restocking it.
 
Expensive... more money will be spent than you will ever recover... so look at it that way going in...
 
I use to have new barrels in 22 for these, they where made in the 1970's I think it was.
I saved the last one or my 25rf , but ended up selling it couple yrs ago.
the blocks are a little different, but modifying the f.pin may work, or not.
The extractor seemed like it would work, depending on how much wear is on it. WGP in Edm. may have some used ones, I would not bet on it thou.
I never did check if the fire pin would work with out modifying. would not be too hard to change the angle a tad if you have a shop.

PS ,I have heard of 22Mag being set up in these, but don't do it, all the pressure is held by the pivot pin and it can't handle it.
 
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I use to have new barrels in 22 for these, they where made in the 1970's I think it was.
I saved the last one or my 25rf , but ended up selling it couple yrs ago.
the blocks are a little different, but modifying the f.pin may work, or not.
The extractor seemed like it would work, depending on how much wear is on it. WGP in Edm. may have some used ones, I would not bet on it thou.
I never did check if the fire pin would work with out modifying. would not be too hard to change the angle a tad if you have a shop.

PS ,I have heard of 22Mag being set up in these, but don't do it, all the pressure is held by the pivot pin and it can't handle it.

I think the firing pin would work as guys that make reloadable .25 stevens use .22 blanks. But will cross that bridge when I get there.
 
I have TWO here that were done like that - stamped "25 Stevens" on outside of barrel, but have a .22 liner installed. I do not know if original extractors / ejector was re-used or if "new" one installed. One is stamped 1915 - I think the other is the earlier version. Although they have been here a while, I have not fired either of them.
 
The actual job of drilling out the bore and bonding in the liner is pretty straightforward. Nice to use a lathe, can be done without. If a real liner drill is purchased, and a chamber reamer - well that is a lot of money for a single job. The liner itself isn't all that expensive.
It would be best to cut the extractor to fit the rim at the same time as the rim recess in the chamber is cut. The used .25 extractor could be rebuilt to approximate a new blank extractor. No idea if the .25 firing pin would be OK for .22.
 
Being a purest I believe all firearms should be kept original.

When an old rifle is worn down to the point where
nothing you do causes more depreciation then have at it.

Almost any thing done will make it more valuable
or at least more usable.

...skwerl
 
Being a purest I believe all firearms should be kept original.

When an old rifle is worn down to the point where
nothing you do causes more depreciation then have at it.

Almost any thing done will make it more valuable
or at least more usable.

...skwerl

Bored a sewer pipe and has 2 slight bulges in it.
 
antiqueguy, are you bound and determined to use the existing barrel for esthetic purposes only???

If you just want to make a shooter out of it, go to your local gunshop or smith and look for a 22rf barrel in his parts bins.

Most smiths don't throw those old barrels away and often will have old barreled receivers with decent bores that can easily be fitted to your action.

As far as your firing pin, I don't see any reason why it won't work. Those things are quite deep and reach well into the area a 22rf rim would be.

As for the extractor, It may or may not work but it's not a difficult task for a local welder with a TIG machine to build it up enough so that you can reprofile it with a file.

Keep it working if you can is my motto.
 
antiqueguy, are you bound and determined to use the existing barrel for esthetic purposes only???

If you just want to make a shooter out of it, go to your local gunshop or smith and look for a 22rf barrel in his parts bins.

Most smiths don't throw those old barrels away and often will have old barreled receivers with decent bores that can easily be fitted to your action.

As far as your firing pin, I don't see any reason why it won't work. Those things are quite deep and reach well into the area a 22rf rim would be.

As for the extractor, It may or may not work but it's not a difficult task for a local welder with a TIG machine to build it up enough so that you can reprofile it with a file.

Keep it working if you can is my motto.

We don’t really have a local smith per se he will fit scope and such. A 10/22 barrel could be machined down enough to work but I do not have a metal lathe and don’t really want to attempt it on the wood lathe. I do kinda like the octagon to round barrel though. Don’t mind paying for the tooling as I will have it and find excuses to use it ;)
 
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the firing pin could / will hit a little on the barrel as the 22 chamber will be smaller, should not be hard to fix
if it was a 32, then more work to do.

Most 10/22 barrels are too short for this, unless it was a rifle one, Fellow I know would make lots of liners from cooey barrels, they always worked good.
 
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the firing pin could / will hit a little on the barrel as the 22 chamber will be smaller, should not be hard to fix
if it was a 32, then more work to do.

Most 10/22 barrels are too short for this, unless it was a rifle one, Fellow I know would make lots of liners from cooey barrels, they always worked good.

I was thinking more or less a 10/22 barrel could have a longer shank put on it and have the shank turned down to fit the stevens receiver.
 
If you know anyone with even a small hobby metal lathe, you can easily make up a pretty good jury rigged liner drill bit.
Find a drill bit of a size slightly larger than your liner(1/64"ish). Chuck in the lathe with the tip facing out, and use a hand grinder to reduce a section of it down to around 7/32", +0/-.010". Take the drill bit to a bench grinder and recreate the cutting lips at the location where the 7/32" cylindrical section meets the original diameter. Don't be afraid to cut into the sides of the pilot section when doing the reshaping, as the tip of it is what does the guiding anyway.
Put the drill bit back in the lathe and use a larger 60 degree center drill to make a nice big cone that takes up the entire back end of the drill bit.
Find a piece of rod long enough to make a shank for the drill, and a bit smaller than the drill bit in diameter. Put it in the lathe and turn a 60 degree cone on the end of it. Braze the rod and the drill bit together. The 60 degree cone will hold everything nice and straight.


Or just go to Brownell's and order it....
 
I have TWO here that were done like that - stamped "25 Stevens" on outside of barrel, but have a .22 liner installed. I do not know if original extractors / ejector was re-used or if "new" one installed. One is stamped 1915 - I think the other is the earlier version. Although they have been here a while, I have not fired either of them.

Very likely they took the cheap way out and stretched the extractor, heating it and striking it to forge it out longer, along the shaft. Have seen several done that way.
 
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