Ardent
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
You're well ahead of me then.
Still some amazing numbers, I'll pick up some when I can for my extreme weather and see how they fly.
.270 130 vs 150 grain
- Thread starter swinginberrys
- Start date
You're well ahead of me then.
Still some amazing numbers, I'll pick up some when I can for my extreme weather and see how they fly.7828 works really well for me, too. Excellent velocity and very accurate with 150s. You can hardly stuff enough in the case to be dangerous (although working up from recommended/published data is always wise).
Are you running standard or magnum primers?
swinginberrys
Regular
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- Mallorytown
Some great food for thought! Some of the information in this thread is exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks to everyone for chiming in! I finally convinced my buddy to pick up a .270 as well so I'm hoping to start reloading as soon as I get my shop ready (and get the reloading equipment)
Rem 9.5 mag. Bullet is Matrix 150 gr flat base.
If you are new to reloading, I highly recommend starting simple; Lee Classic Loader. You may never bother with anything else except a decent scale and a few other odds and ends. Incredibly affordable and effective!
I've only used standard primers so far. Quite a few sources of load data show they used magnum primers with 7828 and heavy .277" bullets, but I am concerned about pushing the pressure too high.
I guess as long as the standards are working with this load and my gun likes 'em, I might as well stick to it.
swinginberrys
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- Mallorytown
I actually just started a thread regarding this in the reloading forum. Trying to get a feel for where to start. Was thinking about the rock chucker, hand primer and the appropriate dies and components. I'm going to be reloadingf or my 10 gauge (if I can find a gun Smith that can fix it ) so I'm saving some coin for a good scale
You're going to get a lot of advice on how to spend your money. Here's mine:
Get a Lee Loader for your .270 (~$42 at Cabelas.ca or on Amazon). Get a Frankford Arsenal DS-750 digital scale (~$50 on amazon). Get a set of calipers ($20 on sale at CT). Get a soft-faced hammer if you don't have one (maybe $15-$20). Get a Lee case trimming tool and a pilot for .270 (~$20). Collect some peanut butter jars or whatever for soaking brass ($free). Buy some vinegar. Collect or buy some brass ($ ??). Get a couple of reloading books in either hard copy or digital form ($??).
You're done, for under $200. You'll recover the cost of all this stuff in your first couple of reloading sessions, and you'll be well on your way to making better ammo than you can buy. If you later decide to move up to a press and a bunch of fancy gear, then everything you bought is still useful except the Lee Loader ($42) which you can sell, or just keep around (heck, it paid for itself long ago anyway).
Obviously this won't let you reload for 10-gauge. I don't know anything about loading shotgun shells but I am guessing a Rock Chucker wouldn't be of much use for that either.
My view on it is the money laid out for a Lee, kitchen table, pound things in and out, is just that much money wasted!
They neck size only. Thus, after as little as three or four loadings and the case won't go back into the chamber, without it being full length resized.
In short, those things are just not a practical way of reloading.
I would get a descent press, maybe a Lee, that can be used for priming and get Lee dies and you are away. No matter what you get, you will require a beam scale, a scoop or three and a simple Lee hand trimmer.
In reality, you have little use for a caliper, because it is used mostly by newer reloaders to get the COAL their manual states their cartridge should have. However, since the writers of the manual know nothing about the rifle being used, any figure they give should be completely ignored. Just seat the bullet so it will go into the magazine and the chamber, while allowing the bolt to close.
They neck size only. Thus, after as little as three or four loadings and the case won't go back into the chamber, without it being full length resized.
In short, those things are just not a practical way of reloading.
I would get a descent press, maybe a Lee, that can be used for priming and get Lee dies and you are away. No matter what you get, you will require a beam scale, a scoop or three and a simple Lee hand trimmer.
In reality, you have little use for a caliper, because it is used mostly by newer reloaders to get the COAL their manual states their cartridge should have. However, since the writers of the manual know nothing about the rifle being used, any figure they give should be completely ignored. Just seat the bullet so it will go into the magazine and the chamber, while allowing the bolt to close.
H4831, I have heard people say this before, but I have not yet experienced it.
Please explain how a case can expand larger than the chamber.
All I've ever had to do is trim my cases, as they do stretch a bit after a few firings. Never any trouble chambering them if they have been trimmed.
I use the calipers to quickly check whether I need to trim or not (and for all sorts of other things that easily justifies the $20 purchase).
(Sorry to all for the O/T)
Please explain how a case can expand larger than the chamber.
All I've ever had to do is trim my cases, as they do stretch a bit after a few firings. Never any trouble chambering them if they have been trimmed.
I use the calipers to quickly check whether I need to trim or not (and for all sorts of other things that easily justifies the $20 purchase).
(Sorry to all for the O/T)
swinginberrys
Regular
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- Mallorytown
This is all good information for me!
I've already got the press and components to reload for the 10 gauge....figure some of the stuff can be used for general reloading (like the scale) so I may as well buy decent early on. Everything else is trying to figure out what price point makes sense.
I've already got the press and components to reload for the 10 gauge....figure some of the stuff can be used for general reloading (like the scale) so I may as well buy decent early on. Everything else is trying to figure out what price point makes sense.
If you know a reloader, he may have a spare press to use for a bit - lots of us do.
When we consider using a heavier lead, we may not consider that our energy may be (roughly) the same, but our velocity will be lower - so we should say it like it is: "I think that I should slow down my bullets when I shoot a larger animal like a moose. "
Does that sound like something that we need to do?
When we consider using a heavier lead, we may not consider that our energy may be (roughly) the same, but our velocity will be lower - so we should say it like it is: "I think that I should slow down my bullets when I shoot a larger animal like a moose. "
Does that sound like something that we need to do?
With all the shortages of components ,you may not be able to experiment much. 57gr/IMR 4831/130gr 55.7gr /IMR4831/140gr 58gr/RE#22/140gr 54gr/IMR4831/150gr 53.5gr/IMR4350/150gr These are all under an inch from my Win 70 FWT Classic may be too warm for your's so use at own risk and start a couple grains less and work up. Win and Fed brass with Fed mag primers.........Harold
swinginberrys
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Outta curiosity what's the theorie behind that?
