.270 vs .280

Which do you prefer?

  • Total voters
    436
at this point we've all concluded that you're going to blow your hands off at the range someday :wave: good luck with that
 
Canuck525 said:
OMG!!! lol.....pressure is not measured by velocity. Where in the world did you come up with that? Inspect your cases,check primer pockets, most importantly measure the web. Those are some of the signs of pressure. 27 years without a failed case proves this works.
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Let see... if you've been loading 27 years... my guess is that'd make you about 50 or over. Haven't met a 50+ yet that employs, to quote "OMG!! lol.....". Not saying you're not the age you claim, just strangely juvenile web acronyms. Just musing, not accusing, struck me as odd.
 
hey, the 260 is a great cartridge. What a lot of people don't realize is that the 280 rem was first introduced as a semi- auto and pump action.Therefore the s.a.m.i on it was a very anemic 50,000 and this is still maintained in all the reloading manuals. I assumed most handloaders would have figured this out and loaded it accordingly by what we all did years ago and that was by inspecting cartridges for signs of pressure.Hell, I didn't even have a chronograph until about 12 years ago. Also, most reloading manuals are very conservative. If you want to see really hot loads look at some of the old manuals.Hornady lists a load of 72.5 or 73.5 grains of 4831 for a 139 grain bullet in the 7mm rem mag with a velocity of 3400. I thought they were crazy but I worked my way up to it and it was showing signs of pressure but was safe for atleast a few laods( atleast in the fall) The speeds I achieved for that load were 3360-3390. I wouldn't try it on a hot summer day. SO I worked up RL22( which I find builds pressure slowly) with a 150 which actually showed less pressure. Apparently this is hard for some of the folks here to believe but there are many reloaders doing this.
 
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hey that is basically the same speed that Hornady gets with their 'Light Magnum' ammo, but they load 140 grainers! :D you're amazing at the reload bench! miracle worker :)
 
proves that the hottest factory ammo, using non canister powders, is slower than your magical handloads. Something isn't right here...:)

do you own a 30-30?
 
You know, you have not asked once what barrel twist or grove I am using. I would have assumed you knew a thing or two but you seem completely ignorant. Why not educate yourself and look on some of the american sites. If you have an open mind you could learn something . Then you would come to realize that I am not doing anything ground breaking.What I am doing has been done by many others.
 
I am well aware that you're not the only one who overloads cartridges to get higher speeds. You're calling me the ignortant one? pretty funny...good luck on the loading bench, I just hope you live in a different province than me, let alone different rifle range :)
 
cnuck 525

You are getting 7mm STW velocities form a .280.

Measuring case heads is what many did (including many handloading manual makers) before pressure testing equipment was widely available. Then, reloading data was changed. That is why you see higher loads from older manuals.

"Inspecting" cases is fun, but it doesn't tell you much, really. In a custom (or very good factory chamber) pressure signs are often less evident, since the tolerances of the rifle are so tight, you don't get the "sticky bolt" even when way over pressure.

I woudl think an experienced, knowlegeable handloader woudl be aware of this widely known fact.

No doubt you can exceed "book max" for many .280 loads, (due to the original "auto" use of the .280) but your results are a bit extreme.

You are loading hot for no real reason, since it will not make a difference in the hunting fields.

I'd urge any new handloader to never use any loads quoted by Canuck 525.
 
Canuck525, overloading a cartridge until the pressure approaches the failure point of the rifle is nuts. Having said that my .308 is configured in such a way that I am driving a 200 gr MK 250 fps above the maximum published velocity. I can achieve this because my barrel is 28" long and my chamber is cut in such a way that the bullet does not extend into the powder capacity of the cartridge. As a result my OAL is too long for the magazine. If your .280 Remington is built to SAAMI specifications you are playing with fire, regardless of what you have got away with in the past. Perhaps you have chosen a slow twist barrel, perhaps your bore size is on the large side of 7mm, and you might have an inordinate amount of freebore. These things do help to reduce pressure. If your rifle is outside of SAAMI specifications you should of said so up front to prevent the uninitiated from attempting to match your performance. We don't care what you do yourself, but I believe that if your rifle is built to SAAMI standards your technique is reckless and should not be followed.

Todays handloaders have no excuse for recklessly running into dangerous pressure situations. If you experience a stiff bolt lift and continued to increase the powder charge, you are going to find the powder charge that causes the rifle to fail. Driving a given bullet faster is a simple matter of choosing a longer pipe chambered for a cartridge with greater powder capacity.

I don't trust dimensional changes in brass as a reliable indicator of pressure. Counting the reloads possible from Federal as opposed to Lapua brass should suggest why, never mind the differences between lot numbers. My Remington .375 Ultra brass seldom makes 6 reloads, and my loads are slightly below the book maximum, but I worked up the loads using a chronograph and when the velocity plateaued I dropped back a grain and called that my working maximum.

I am curious about your choice of Re-22. In medium capacity cartridges, slow powders often run out of capacity before a reasonable velocity can be realized, in fact it can be impossible to create an overload in some cases regardless of how long your drop tube is or how heavily compressed the load. Personally I think a compressed powder charge is an indication that the wrong powder has been chosen, but there are those who will disagree. There are some things here that don't add up.

Since you appear to be a velocity addict, you might as well build a 7mm Ultramag, a 7/.338 Lapua or a 7/.378 and be done with it.
 
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Canuck525 said:
OK, you are a retard. I and about 10 000 others are getting around 3450 plus from a 150 grain and 3300 plus easily from a 168 berger out of a 7mm stw. Some of you are just down right idiots.
When I joined this site I was expecting it to simply be a canadian version of the american sites. Boy, was I wrong. There wouldn't be any argument as to the velocities stated because they know these velocities are inline with a number of other reloaders. It seems that many on this site get ALL their info and stats from an over cautious reloading manual.
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How many of your loads have ben pressure tested, using either an "at home" strain guage or factory ammo pressure testing equipment?

What exactly is the advantage of overloading a cartridge?

Your statement here illustrates perfectly that you are using over pressure loads:

I thought they were crazy but I worked my way up to it and it was showing signs of pressure but was safe for atleast a few laods( atleast in the fall) The speeds I achieved for that load were 3360-3390. I wouldn't try it on a hot summer day
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"Showing signs of pressure, but was safe for a few loads"

"worked in the fall, wouldn't try it on a hot day"

If it's showing pressure signs on a hot day, it's OVER LOADED. It may not show these signs as much on a cooler day, but it's still OVER LOADED- it's just not showing you as well.

Once you start getting pressure signs, like a sticky bolt, you are usually way past maximum. Many OVERLOADS dont' show signs until well past maximum pressure, which is why inspecting cases is really not an accurate measure of pressure.

You call others idiots and retards, but you don't even know this BASIC handloading information. :slap:
 
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