2x new M305s inspection

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MartyK2500

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I have had time to teardown, cleanup, reassemble my new norc.
So far, a few good surprises, a few less good.
2nd one will be tomorrow during thunderstorm expected here.
These have 2013###x serials, so i imagine its a 2013 batch. M305 marked for 7.62

They both come from Marstar, i had asked for barrels that we're undertorqued (easier to reindex), and i was dissapointed when they got here. As the flash hider was pointing way left (looking through rear sights) but front sight was max adjusted to the right. They kinda cheated my request to have front sight pointing right i guess.

Rifle #1
passes the tilt test, bolt has very little front-back movement when locked in place, barrel perfectly indexed or 1 degree off ( flash hider sight notch was way out of index). Replaced op rod spring and guide for the SJ kit. It improved the smoothness of action a lot. Flash hider/front sight, and rear sight removed, waiting on usgi stuff in the mail. Tried slacking barrel screw, i have a big handle torq screw driver, and a kit of 80 armorers bits, all flat head, but different thickness and width. It slacked easy with the tools, i might have just been lucky. I tighted it back to where it was for now.

Rifle #2
I didn't tear down yet, but so far barrel looks very well indexed (flash hider is as crooked as first). Action real hard to cycle, and bolt has lots of front/back movement when locked in place. We'll see once i open her up, but so far this rifle seems to be the candidate for wolverine supplies M14 parts kit. I could keep all the chinese parts to service or try better fitting on rifle #1.

That's it so far, so for 550$ ea. brand new at marstar i can't complain, now we'll just have to wait my 7.62 gauges and see where the bolts really stand.

And by the way, rifle #1, if i reinstall chinese FH and castle nut, the castle nut never gets real tight. With my fingers i can get it to max, if i put castle nut wrench to it always turns. Did i strip castle nut someway when wacking flash hider off? and will USGI imperial castle nut fit my metric barrel threads?
 
MartyK2500 said:
And by the way, rifle #1, if i reinstall chinese FH and castle nut, the castle nut never gets real tight. With my fingers i can get it to max, if i put castle nut wrench to it always turns. Did i strip castle nut someway when wacking flash hider off? and will USGI imperial castle nut fit my metric barrel threads?
Click to expand...

Sounds like you stripped the nut, mine always tightens down solid using the wrench. And no, it won't fit...but you could force it I guess...
 
Cool i will look at them often then. My main interest in 22" m305 are to make good shooters of 7.62 iron sights.
If i get a wacky out of index shortie with poor fitting, at least i get same receiver for parts project.
As i want a 3rd M305 down the road before 2017
 
I have seen two new M305 this week having issue with the bolt lock. The bolt will stay locked only if you keep your finger on the bolt lock. When you remove your finger, the bolt will slam forward or when you knock on the the butt stock. Anyone seen this issue before?
 
unic said:
I have seen two new M305 this week having issue with the bolt lock. The bolt will stay locked only if you keep your finger on the bolt lock. When you remove your finger, the bolt will slam forward or when you knock on the the butt stock. Anyone seen this issue before?
Click to expand...

Yup, pretty common. Bolt release is out of spec and not able to rotate fully into position. Easily fixed with a little grinder action.
 
I had time to fully detail strip 2nd rifle this morning, i have a few questions been wondering.
My 2nd castle nut tights real good on rifle #1, it seems to have an audible click to it, so castle nut #1 was stripped in the process of removing FH

Measuring between the rear of bolt lug and receiver, locked into place, does a casing or a gauge have to be chambered to measure this?
Rifle #1 gives me 16 thou, and rifle #2 20 thou, chamber empty

There was a net difference in removing the FH in rifle #1 and #2. Both we're using same process, stripped receiver in vise, end of barrel supported behing FH, cold chisel and a 20oz hammer. The chisel was at the smallest angle possible, banging on the bayo lug close to barrel.
barrel #1 took 13-14 good whacks! I was setting myself for the same long tedious work for barrel #2, but only took 2 whacks

Any possible downside to have hammered barrel #1 so many times?
 
after I read your piece- I got 3 brand new 305s last novermber, - the flashiders all line up with the splines in the barrel, they all pass the clang test and the front sights on 2 of them were SLIGHTLY off to the right- nothing that can't be ine tuned with an allen key- looks like you got a bunch of Friday rifles
 
The USGI castle nut will fit on the Norinco. The threads aren't exact, but they're close enough.

They work fine on the two Norincos I have.

Are the threads on your original Norinco actually damaged?
 
unic said:
Any detail what need to grind down to make it works?
Click to expand...

I imagine shortening yhe overall length slightly to make sure it doesn't bind up on the receiver.

But if you're going to go to all the trouble to remove it to modify it, you might was get a USGI or the Magwedge quick release version
 
Threads on both rifles are really clean
The surviving castle nut fits tight on both rifles

Fully reassembled rifle 1 until parts get here, surprisingly enough the norc flash hider does ring a lot when dry firing, i didnt expect the chinese ones to do so
 
Odd Shot said:
I imagine shortening yhe overall length slightly to make sure it doesn't bind up on the receiver.

But if you're going to go to all the trouble to remove it to modify it, you might was get a USGI or the Magwedge quick release version
Click to expand...

The Magwedge quick release looks interesting but unsure it will fix the bolt lock issue.
 
supernova said:
The flat area where the spring pushes on. Just be sure to leave a divot for the spring to seat in. Its very hard steel to drill if you grind too far.
Click to expand...

The idea is to raise the lock so it catch more on the lug? The area on the lug where it catches are curved which compounded the issue. Not sure why they curved it?

NOTE: OP, sorry for going off topic.
 
unic said:
The idea is to raise the lock so it catch more on the lug? The area on the lug where it catches are curved which compounded the issue. Not sure why they curved it?

NOTE: OP, sorry for going off topic.
Click to expand...

Yup, thats exactly it. Get the bolt release/hold open/whatever you want to call it up higher so its resting on the flat face of the bolt lug.
 
Inspectiong another M305 i got my hands on this here EE
I couldnt believe, i did not expect there was good specimens out there, well so far as i haven't shot it yet.

Fully dissassembled, removed spot welded FH, cleaned up good and inspected.

Eyeballing it with NM flash hider and rods of front sight base and receiver, it ''looks'' like perfect index. Factory flash hider sight base was a bit crooked
Gas is finger tight at 3 oclock, have to wrench it to 6 oclock
OP rod guide is tight, as in i can't move it with my fingers even forcing it, and op rod directly indexed with piston
Bolt bears on both lugs, while not as perfect as one we'd lap, it does have the most bearing on both lugs i have yet to see on a factory norc. My other bolts are currently all bearing on 1 lug
Closes on 308 field, does not close on 7.62 field
And to top it off chinese flash hider rings loud while cycling action, my first chinese FH to actually seem to ring

That's it for now, just had to type how satisfied i was.
This M305 which was destined for a coworker that hunts (he wanted me to get my hands on it first and tweak it before reselling him) is now my new project gun, he can have one of the others i got!

Installed an USGI connector lock/pin to start off for tonight. Fit was tighter than chinese one had to sand it a bit, but won't need any shimming in my USGI fiberglass stock
For tomorow i have USGI rear sights, flash hider assembly, SJ spring and guide, to install, i will then try it as is and see if the range is as satisfying as initial teardown
 
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