An easy way to get the broken case out is to use a cleaning rod with a bronze brush. Shove the brush in from the chamber end and push it into the neck part of the case - and then pull back. The case will come out.
3/4 of .308 case stuck in the barrel.
- Thread starter Brianma65
- Start date
Yes it was a hand load , 3 time fired R.P case .308. Couldn't see the piece in the chamber with a bore scope. Thought it was shot through the barrel until we shoved a rod and patch in. It was really tightwhen we pulled it back the rest of the case came with it.
You might be over resizing your cases if you only got 3 firings out of your Remington cases. And why they say to only bump the shoulder back .001 to .002 when setting up your dies.
All the .308 cases below were full length resized until the cases failed, and the first cases to fail were after 11 reloadings. Meaning 3 reloadings is a defective case "or" over resizing the case and too much shoulder bump.
Exaggerated illustration below, in a bolt action you only need to bump the shoulder back .001 to .002 below the red dotted line. And if you set up your dies as per the instructions you will push the shoulder back to the green dotted line and greatly shorten case life. Meaning you can adjust your dies for a custom fit to "your" chamber and not over work the brass.
When the cartridge is chambered your head clearance is the same approximate amount as your shoulder bump and when fired the case stretches to meet the bolt face. When you keep the shoulder bump to the minimum of .001 to .002 you are not exceeding the elastic limits of the brass and the case does not stretch and separate early.
Below a cartridge firing and the rear of the case stretching to meet the bolt face.
From looking at pics and you tube ,it appears incipient case head separation occurs closer to the head. Right where the head wall ends. This separation occurred further up the body ,closer to halfway than by the head. We're going to check for the ring around the bottom just to be sure and will be using a neck sizing die. We reload with the same press and I use the neck die but my friend hasn't used it yet. I think this was a freak incident caused by a bad case. In any event we will be more thorough with our case inspection.
They are not allways easy to remove.On both a Savage 340 and a pre-64 Win .300 H+H I had old factory ammo let go in the middle.No brush would remove either.Very carefully I had to remove the bolt and fish an appropriate sized lag screw into the stuck case.By using a socket get it to bite into the brass without scoring the chamber.Once it's firmly attached a block of hardwood to protect the gun finish and a large scewdriver to lever against the lag screw head/and action gently.Pop out it comes.No gun damage if done right and no smith within 100 miles.Bad brass.I have a couple hundred once fired Sako .222 in the old orange + blue box that do this every time.Brittle as ice! I may either anneal them or toss them ...haven't decided.The .222 is long since sold due to weak extraction with anything other than 3/4 throttle loads.Harold
