3 newbie questions

darcy32171

darcy32171

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1st: I bought a turbo pro 1200 tumbler, yes I read about the stainless media, but for a first timer I can`t get it here. I bought Tufnut(turbo tumbler media). It shines the cases, not really the primer pocket. Does it matter that it leaves a residue (red, since the media is red) inside the case?

2nd: The Lee primer pocket cleaner, it says only light pressure to do the job, but I noticed it only scribes the outer circumference, doesn`t leave a clean FLAT surface....does this matter?

3rd: Being a newbie...I haven`t got all the different "load data manuals to do an average" so... If I buy only IMR 4895 powder and Hornady V-max 55gr bullets, can someone give me a "ballpark" between safe load and max load for a 22-250?

Thanks,guys. I`m not trying to cheap out with my last question. I just haven`t made it to the bigger center to buy the other manuals as of yet. I just want to try a couple reloaded shells. Thanks,Darcy
 
1: The red dsut probably won't be an issue - my corn media leaves some dust as well ... I just throw a pile of shells in an old pillow case to wipe the worst of if off the outside of the shell so they don't start "caking" inside the dies once lube is applied. If there is a LOT of the dust, a can of compressed air will clean the insides ofthe cases well enough. A thin film of it should not effect case volume or cause any powder contamination.

2: As long as you are only removing primer residue and not actually removing brass, you can push a little harder. I never worry about getting primer pockets perfectly clean, so long as they are fairly flat at the bottom to allow the primier to seat level and at it's proper depth. As long as I see hints of clean brass inside the hole, it's "good enough" for me.

3:
Source: Sierra Bullets (1971 edition)
55 gr Spitzer & Semi Pointed
IMR 4895 Min 31.9gr - Max 35.5 gr

Source: Nosler Reloading Manual (1994 edition)
55 gr Spitzer solid base
IMR4895 Min 30.0 gr (3110 fps)- Max 34.0 gr (3600 fps)

Start at the minimums and work up in 1/2 grain increments until you see the groups start to open up. Always watching for pressure signs as you work towards max. You should see the groups start fairly open, then tighten, then start to open again. Tightest is your starting point, and adjust your test loads from it by 0.1 grains. If you don't find a "tight" group during initial load devlopment, try playing with your OAL and seating depth and redo your work-up loads again.

Based on the two maunal lists I posted above, if I was startign to build loads for a 22-250 with IMR4895 with 55 gr bullets, I'd be starting at around 30.5 grains, and working up to about 35 grains, but would also be paying closer attention to pressure signs (tight bolt, flattened primers, case swelling) after about 33.5 grains. Anythign over 35 I would approach in 0.1 grain increments and have my calipers with me to measure the shells of previsouly "safe" fired brass from previous testing to watch for abnormal chagnes in size.
 
I use a blend of the tufnut and green corn cob stuff. I strain the media out and throw the brass in a box. No extra care taken. I also dont take the primers out prior to tumbling and never had a problem
 
I use a mix of plain cob and walnut, add a bit of Turbo Brite and a few drops of Brasso. If it's a new batch of media, let it run for a while until the additives are well dispersed. This leaves very little dust and the brass really shines!

If the red cob is leaving that much dust, try adding a little bit of Brasso to 'moisten' it very slightly - kind of like oiling a dusty road. Might work - the key is use very little additive - start with just a few drops and work up if necessary..

I deprime/resize after tumbling so the flash hole doesn't get filled with little kernels of media. If I deprime then tumble, I'll run the brass through a universal decapping die to knock out any bits stuck in the flash holes.

Even if you deprime then tumble, the primer pockets get jammed-up with media so the primer pocket never gets cleaned like the rest of the brass. A Lee primer pocket cleaner will remove the crusty scale - nothing more is needed.

Good luck - SD
 
The red dust won't hurt the case. Don't breath it in, and wash your hands after handling it. There will be lead residue in it. I usually wipe the outside of the cases by shaking them in an old towel.

The primer pocket does not have to be cleaned, and the normal tumbler media won't clean it. The Lee pocket tool is not that good. If you feel you must have clean pockets put an RCBS type wire brush primer pocket cleaner in a drill, or buy a Sinclair or Redding (not Lyman) primer pocket uniformer also in a drill. The first time uniforms the pocket, any other time you run it will clean to the same depth. Again you don't have to do this. I never clean pistol pockets, and most other people don't either.

You don't need to use several manuals to get an average. The load published in one manual is fine. NShunter's recommendation of the Hodgdon database is a great one. Eventually you probably will end up with most of the manuals though.
 
NShunter1254 said:
http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp
Click to expand...

What does the letter "C" mean after the grain? And for the 35gr bullet it says NOS LF...??? Is this what a guy asks for at the store or just 35gr bullets? On the Hodgdon site, I noticed this. For the 22-250: IMR 4895, 35gr NOS LF, 2.350 OAL, 37.5c gr, 4432velocity, 58,200 psi. (this is max load) on minimum load it just calls for 36.8gr no letter "C".
 
the "C" after reloading data means Compressed load
powder will be in the neck after throwing a charge, the bullet will push down the powder and crush it when you seat the bullet

used dryer sheets added to your tumbler will reduce the dust (you might have to add 4-5 over a couple of hours , removing the old ones first,

As a first timer i would say start at min and work up to half way between min and max.

Work up to your rifle max after reading more and getting a bit more experience
when the bolt is hard to lift , primers are flat, flat you have gone to far
brass will last longer too
 
Darcy, do NOT under any circumstances exceed the maximum charge (powder) load in the Hodgdon (or any other) manual. Those charges are worked up to by the experts in the ballistics labs and are typically tested in a pressure gun (a barrel specifically designed to record the pressure in either Copper Units of Pressure:CUP or the good ol' PSI) to be sure that the load doesn't have too high a pressure for safety.
 
darcy32171 said:
1st: I bought a turbo pro 1200 tumbler, yes I read about the stainless media, but for a first timer I can`t get it here. I bought Tufnut(turbo tumbler media). It shines the cases, not really the primer pocket. Does it matter that it leaves a residue (red, since the media is red) inside the case?

2nd: The Lee primer pocket cleaner, it says only light pressure to do the job, but I noticed it only scribes the outer circumference, doesn`t leave a clean FLAT surface....does this matter?

3rd: Being a newbie...I haven`t got all the different "load data manuals to do an average" so... If I buy only IMR 4895 powder and Hornady V-max 55gr bullets, can someone give me a "ballpark" between safe load and max load for a 22-250?

Thanks,guys. I`m not trying to cheap out with my last question. I just haven`t made it to the bigger center to buy the other manuals as of yet. I just want to try a couple reloaded shells. Thanks,Darcy
Click to expand...
You Tube has lots of tutorials from all the major reloading manufacturers.
Do your do diligence with everything.
As for your primer pocket concern there is a tool to clean crude from said pocket.
Reloading is labor intensive and I use the word in the broadest sense of the word.
Rob
 
darcy32171 said:
1st: I bought a turbo pro 1200 tumbler, yes I read about the stainless media, but for a first timer I can`t get it here. I bought Tufnut(turbo tumbler media). It shines the cases, not really the primer pocket. Does it matter that it leaves a residue (red, since the media is red) inside the case?

2nd: The Lee primer pocket cleaner, it says only light pressure to do the job, but I noticed it only scribes the outer circumference, doesn`t leave a clean FLAT surface....does this matter?

3rd: Being a newbie...I haven`t got all the different "load data manuals to do an average" so... If I buy only IMR 4895 powder and Hornady V-max 55gr bullets, can someone give me a "ballpark" between safe load and max load for a 22-250?

Thanks,guys. I`m not trying to cheap out with my last question. I just haven`t made it to the bigger center to buy the other manuals as of yet. I just want to try a couple reloaded shells. Thanks,Darcy
Click to expand...
1. regular walnut or corn cob tumbler media is just fine - I'd recommend a rag with some rubbing alcohol or acetone to clear the dust and polishing compound after you tumble. I've been doing this for years and years, and it works perfectly.

2. a quick spin with the primer pocket cleaner is all you need. It doesn't matter if it's dirty still. The thing to watch for is that there isn't a piece of tumbler media stuck in the flash hole.

3. Hodgdon's website has all the load data you need. Start 10% lower than listed and work up. You'll know your load is approaching too hot if the primers are flattened out, or if you start having trouble lifting the bolt. Usually there is 1 or even 2 accuracy nodes long before you get to this point. I would never recommend starting with an average load for a new loader - start at or near the minimum. You're going to go through a lot of power and bullets doing it this way, but it's really the best way to learn.

As you get more experienced, you'll see that you can find those accuracy nodes really quickly, and then just spend your time fine tuning.

There are lots of free manuals online - VV, Hodgedon's, Nosler, etc. Find, your cartridge and choose the load for a comparable bullet (eg. 55gr flat base, 55gr boat tail, or whatever), drop down 10% and work up from there. You'll be fine.

Be safe and have fun - loading can be almost as much fun as shooting, and it's awesome when you find that perfect recipe for your rifle.
 
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