- Location
- interior b.c.
I shoot the same rifle as you,I've found the silvertips in 180's to be the best for my rifle.
30-06 ammo suggestions?
- Thread starter SerbSniper
- Start date
OK, so I picked up a box of the following, all 180 grain:
- Remington Premier Sciroccco Bonded
- Remington Premier Core-Lokt Ultra
- Remingont Express Core-Lokt
Going out to a range tomorrow to see which ones my rifle likes best. I have a feeling it will be the Core-Lokt Ultra's... as I know the regular Core-Lokt's were excellent.
- Remington Premier Sciroccco Bonded
- Remington Premier Core-Lokt Ultra
- Remingont Express Core-Lokt
Going out to a range tomorrow to see which ones my rifle likes best. I have a feeling it will be the Core-Lokt Ultra's... as I know the regular Core-Lokt's were excellent.
DirtyOldSix
Regular
- Location
- Durbanville, South Africa
Here's the adress of the suppliers in Canada
STOEGER CANADA LTD
1801 WENTWORTH STREET, UNIT 16 WHITBY
ONTARIO L1N 8R6
CANADA
Tel: 1-905-436 9077
Fax: 1-905-436 9079
Darn it! That is exactly what I was going to write. Of course, if everybody listened to us, the manufactureres couldn't come up with a differnt bullet with a fancy name every second year, that made all previous bullets obsolete and useless.
Stoeger can barely supply a trickle of Sako & Tikka rifles into Canada, let alone ammo. The odds of finding Sako ammo on a shelf in a Canadian gun store is about 2% or less
If I was loading 30-06 for moose I would buy the Federal vital shock 165 gr Barnes TSX
- Location
- Vancouver Island BC
The Core-Lokt bullet is very sturdy,I have shot many moose with them and they all ended up dead.
Accubonds ,Partitions and Scirrocos are very good, but a premium bullet isn't needed to land a moose.
Shoot at least a 180 grain bullet and put it in the engine room and enjoy bullwinkle steaks.My first moose was taken in 1973 or so with plain ole Hornady's.
The thing I look for is accuracy no matter what bullet name.......
- Location
- Fort Saint John, BC
Agree with Longwalker, as far as any 30-06 bullet goes, it's the weight that packs the punch to put moose on the table. If you need more distance, then try switching to a 300 WSM, but keep on eye on your distance down range. If you have some time and a little money on hand, try reloading and play around with measuing your powders and the various bullets found on the market.
I just shot a young spiker/bull at 170 yards with a 180 grn. corelokt PSP.
He was small, 70lbs. a 1/4, and I made a bad shot through the shoulder. The bullet was a through and through/lungs, out the far side. Moose made it 100 feet (downhill).
The hole on the inside of the far rib cage looked to be an inch wide.
Pretty big punch in my opinion. Relatively cheap and easy to find, too.
R30065 Remington® Express® 180 Pointed Soft Point Core-Lokt®
He was small, 70lbs. a 1/4, and I made a bad shot through the shoulder. The bullet was a through and through/lungs, out the far side. Moose made it 100 feet (downhill).
The hole on the inside of the far rib cage looked to be an inch wide.
Pretty big punch in my opinion. Relatively cheap and easy to find, too.
R30065 Remington® Express® 180 Pointed Soft Point Core-Lokt®
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I have to agree with the above. Particularly with his thoughts on re-loading. With a little time and patience developing your own loads, trying the different 180g bullets that are out there and powders, you can develope a very accurate load for your rifle. Any well placed 180g bullet should drop a moose.
Moose don;t need big heavy bullets. they need penitration. of course for those that don;t want to spend the extra few cents on a premium bullet, going heavy will usually make up the difference.
Moose don;t shock like a deer, they have a very slow metabolisim, and seem to respond best to hypovolemic shock situations (ie: you drain them out).
2 holes and aiming a little lower then normal is a good recipie for getting a moose down in short order. most of our clients are Euro hunters packing what we would consider "light" chamberings. funny, if they put it in the right spot, their little 6.5x55's and 7mm mausers drop 40"+ swamp donkeys without worry.
just my 0.02
Moose don;t shock like a deer, they have a very slow metabolisim, and seem to respond best to hypovolemic shock situations (ie: you drain them out).
2 holes and aiming a little lower then normal is a good recipie for getting a moose down in short order. most of our clients are Euro hunters packing what we would consider "light" chamberings. funny, if they put it in the right spot, their little 6.5x55's and 7mm mausers drop 40"+ swamp donkeys without worry.
just my 0.02
First off, shoot what shoots well in your rifle.
The wise gentleman who go me into hunting killed elk, moose, deer, and even a few bears with nothing more than 150gr. Imperial soft points in his 30'06. Never lost an animal in over 40 years (and counting) of hunting with that combination.
I used nothing but reloaded Sierra SPBT's in my 30'06 for many years. I never recovered a single bullet, as all were pass throughs, never lost a critter to it either. No elk, but a few moose fell to that rifle, and a whole lot of deer also.
Shot placement is what kills, substituting poor shooting with guchi bullets is not going to get you any more game.
The wise gentleman who go me into hunting killed elk, moose, deer, and even a few bears with nothing more than 150gr. Imperial soft points in his 30'06. Never lost an animal in over 40 years (and counting) of hunting with that combination.
I used nothing but reloaded Sierra SPBT's in my 30'06 for many years. I never recovered a single bullet, as all were pass throughs, never lost a critter to it either. No elk, but a few moose fell to that rifle, and a whole lot of deer also.
Shot placement is what kills, substituting poor shooting with guchi bullets is not going to get you any more game.
