30-06 initial setup cost

stinkycod

stinkycod

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Hi, I was wondering if you can help me out. First I will say I have never nor have any experience with reloading ammo. What would be the approximate initial setup cost to get into reloading 30-06 ammo, or is it cheeper to by factory stuff. I would probably only shoot 200 - 300 rounds yearly. I shoot a lot of 7.62 x 39 and 22lr. I would be using the 30-06 for targets and hunting moose and deer in the fall and maybe a bear or yote or two. Or does someone sell reloaded ammo for a decent price
 
If you chose carefully, you can get a functional basic setup for under $300.00.
You may choose to upgrade at a later date, but it will load decent ammo for you.
Your savings will be on the order of 35 - 40% over factory ammo, so you can do the math.
300 rounds = 20 x 15 boxes. 15 x $22.00 [cheap factory ammo] = $330.00
You could load that for under $200.00.
Keep in mind that once you are loading, you are likely to shoot more, so savings go south, lol.
Regards, Eagleye.
 
I agree with Eagleye! Get into reloading in a small and sensible way; buy some good quality used equipment....C press, scales, powder measure and reloading manual. Find a knowledgeable friend to help you get started and enjoy. Its always more fun to shoot ammo that you created and it will lead to a lifetime of shooting enjoyment! Cheers.
 
If you want to go cheap buy a lee loader and a digital scale. I think they're like $40. That way if you don't like reloading you're not out much at all. I have a buddy that loads his 3006 with one right at the range. Its a thought. I went cheap and bought a lee challenger press kit. $125
Tumbler $30 chrono $75 ammo trays $25. Dies $30. I find I shoot a lot more but enjoy reloading. So far I've matched factory loads for accuracy but with better bullets. More experimentation and a day with NO wind I should be able to get .75" groups. If I do my part
 
Besides brass, which you can either buy in bulk packs of 50 or 100 or shot off a bunch of cheaper factory ammo (breaking in the rifle) and fire forming at the same time, you will need:

- good manual, suggest you get the Lyman manual before you do anything
- primers
- based on twist, decide what bullet(s) you want to load
- calipers (Cdn Tire $15 digital)
- powder

and you are basically set to load :ar15:
 
.30-06 Brass
Large Rifle Primers
.308" bullets you like Hornady 180gr soft point for example
Powder such as IMR 4895, H-4895, Varget, IMR 4064
Reloading Manual like Lee 2nd or Lyman 49th

Press
.30-06 full length sizing dies
Priming tool
Digital calipre to measure cartridge and case length
Case trimmer
Good case Lube such as Imperial Sizing die Wax from Redding regardless of what you try or buy you can always fall back on this lube.

Lee 50th Kit $108
Lee RGB .30-06 dies $14
Lee #2 shell holder $3
Lee case length gauge .30-06 $4
Lee Modern Reloading 2nd Ed. Manual $16

or RCBS Rockchucker kit $4-500
.30-06 dies and a shellholder $14-50
Lathe type case trimmer $80-100
Manual $20-30

You can always try a Lee Classic Loader and hammer to neck size brass for your own rifle (not semi autos though) for $22 and use a mallet or block of wood.

Check out FS Reloading in WI for Lee gear.
 
Great list.
I'd get an inertial bullet puller too.
I found it handy when adjusting the bullet seating depth.
I start a little long and adjust the die down, but if you go a little too far it's easy to put the round in the hammer and just tap it a bit to get the bullet back out a bit.

And I love my Redding powder trickler. It's got some weight and sits solid.
The Lee kit comes with lube that's pretty good.
 
stinkycod said:
OK , this is really great info. So many questions. Does it matter what spent brass You use for reloading or can I use the cheep 20.00 a box federal ammo
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Federal brass is fine, if your reloading for peak consistency try sticking with one brand of brass as case volume will change a small/large amount from brand to brand...
 
Hotwheels81 said:
Federal brass is fine, if your reloading for peak consistency try sticking with one brand of brass as case volume will change a small/large amount from brand to brand...
Click to expand...

What he said.

WRT equipment, aside from the components, press and dies and asides from what everybody else has noted:

Before you buy anything else. Two books:

  • ABCs of Reloading is probably the best introduction to the hobby (art? science?). Large paperback. You'll save a lot of time, effort and money by spending a night or two digesting this. Its only lack is that it does not have many 'recipes'; for that you will need...

  • a reloading manual put out by one of the major component manufacturers. Read it before you actually start reloading. Until you get some experience, I wouldn't take any loads off the net.


Must-haves

  • a workbench of some sort. It can be custom built, a folding work-mate or even a way to use your kitchen counter, but you must have something reasonably solid.

  • a reloading block - a tray to hold your cases as you work through the process. You can buy them or make them with a piece of 2x6 and a drill press.

  • a legal way to store primers and powder. Lockable box with EXPLOSIVES written on the outside is the starting point.

  • a book of some sort to record your efforts so you can tell what works and what doesn't. You can buy specially-printed ones but a school notebook works just as well.

  • good lighting. If your reloading place isn't bright, buy a cheap gooseneck lamp.

  • often overlooked - safety googles and a fire extinguisher.


Should-have-but-not-critical' stuff

  • powder measure. It dumps a measured volume of propellant.

  • powder trickler (the 'throw low and trickle up' concept is useful for high accuracy loads)

  • small flashlight

  • +1 on accurate calipers

  • a primer pocket resizing tool (different kinds) and primer crimp remover if you are trying to reload military ammo cases

  • automatic primer feed, strip or tube, to avoid having to handle individual primers


Nice-to-have' stuff

  • primer pocket cleaner

  • magnifying glass

  • a small funnel for pouring powder into cases

  • tumblers are not necessary, but I use one. Asides from making things shiny, they also make it easier to examine your brass for cracks, etc

  • +1 on Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Tap one of your fingers lightly on the wax and roll the case between your fingers. Much less messy than the pads and it lasts almost forever.

  • a deburring tool to 'round off' neck edges, especially after trimming.

  • +1 on the bullet puller.


Some things you won't need until you really need them:

  • a couple of spare depriming pins for your dies

  • a stuck case remover.

You can get both for under $20 and they'll save you a lot of grief.
 
Varmit said:
Hey Atom, I checked amazon and there are 6 books called 'ABCs of Reloading', do you know the author of the one you referred to above?
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The book is reissued from time to time, there has been more than one editor (which is the name on the cover). I think Chevalier was one of the more recent ones with the 8th edition, with the 9th being named James. I wouldn't worry too much; what changes the most is the mention of the latest equipment. The basic process hasn't changed much in 25 years or more.
 
OK all good info, so I have been looking at Cabela’s, this is what I am looking at, any advice is welcomed. Am I missing something or over kill on some components?

Cabela's Rock Chucker Supreme Deluxe Reloading Kit by RCBS
RCBS FL Die Set 30-06
RCBS Shell Holder #3
RCBS Stainless Steel Caliper/Case Length Gauge
Hornady .308 Dia 165gr SST
IMR 4895 powder
Federal Champion 210 Large Rifle Primers
Cabela's Case Tumbler Kit
RCBS Stuck Case Remover
RCBS Kinetic Bullet Puller & RCBS Bullet Puller Collet
 
Skip the imr4895 and get imr4350 or h4350. Also I'd forget the sst bullets and get the regular hornady interlocks.
 
Stinky....here is my set up

IMG_3335a.jpg


As per ATOM, I think you need everything in this picture; clockwise from the press
Manual; case trimmer; powder throw; priming device; caliper; dies; scale. I put the trimmer, throw & primer on a separate piece of plywood so that I can turn it toward me and clamp the plywood to the bench to use that tool;
The green circle in the background is a primer flipper tray and it is very helpful to have as well, and the shell holder is in the press....

IMG_3336a.jpg


I also think you should have everything here; clockwise from the left; a bullet puller; stuck case remover; flashlight; lube; funnel; deburring tool; powder trickler; at the back is a loading tray for holding your brass.

You dont need to get everything at once. Get the manual first and read it. Then go from there.
There are lots of good pieces of equipment on the EE. You can also split some with a buddy if you are so inclined.

A tumbler is nice too.

Of course you will need the bullet components when you do load....as you can see I am in the process of loading us some .270's
 
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