30-30 plinkers with unique

I've heard solder works good too. A buddy gave me the new Lyman casting manual but I haven't really had a chance to go through it yet.

I was thinking of eventually getting a black powder rifle so that's why I started collecting the lead in the first place.

Solder 50 - 50 lead/tin will harden your lead a little. Tin is the hardening agent and is used primarily to aid in mild fillout. Tin is expensive. A less costly hardening agent is the Antimony contained in WW alloy. Antimoney is the primary hardening agent in bullet alloy. Before you jump into casting get yoursel Lymans Hanbook on Casting.

Glen Flexall offers a free book on casting he wrote. You simply download the book to your coomputer. Glenn is a well regared bullet caster and his book is a valuable resource.

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

Take Care

Bob
 
I have a couple of pounds of zinc laying around too.

Like I said I already have the Lyman casting manual, I just haven't had time to read it yet.

Forget zinc. Don't mix it with your lead. Sell your zinc so you won't have to worry about ev er making the mistake of using it.

Take Care

Bob
 
I've fired tons of 30-30 loads with 5 grains of 700X under a 93 grain Lee in WW. Also lots of 120 grain Lee, 150 as well, with accordingly more powder. I've used unique with 150's. with any of these I've listed, I used straight wheel weights (WW). You get 1200 loads out of a pound @ 5 grains. With WW, that's a good, economical way to practice and have fun.:)
 
Tin has a somewhat small effect on bullet hardness. Mostly it's used to give better fill out and crisper edges. The two elements that have the most effect on the hardness of lead are antimony and arsenic.
 
I haven't tried Unique in .30/30... for my .30/30 reduced loads I am shooting 160 hard cast RN's over Trail Boss... these are very accurate loads... and pleasant to shoot.
 
Sorry to raise the dead - I figured it was better than starting a new thread on the same topic.

Anyway, I spent the weekend helping a friend do some construction on a home he's building on a piece of property he's bought, and I thought since I'm going to be 50 acres away from the next possible person, I'll do some of this plinking load testing.

Bottom line - it was way too much fun. I made and brought gongs cut from 1/4" steel plate - heavy and loud. Even with the 'lightest' loads it was using, The gongs were dancing on the chains and my friends were lining up to take a turn.

Components were 165 gr Bullet Barn flat noses, cci magnum primers, mostly winchester brass with the odd Hornady piece, and unique powder. I started minimum loads and worked up to within a grain or 2 of the prescribed max - about 7 different loads altogether. No need to detail it here unless someone wants to re-read a load that was already described. I shoot a '94 win with a heavy octagonal barrel.

Once I had a load figured out I was hitting the 100 yd gong consistantly with the irons, which I thought was awesome - the plates were about 7"x3" and spray bombed flourescent pink to make them extra visible. I was surprised at what reduced loads like this could do to heavy steel plate; not exactly a moose load, but hard hitting just the same.

Anyway, thanks to the forum (esp. Blackwater) for bringing these loads to my attention - I was ready to start reloading in this caliber with pricey projectiles and factory-like loads, but for this type of casual shooting. Now I can reload for less than 1/2 the price of that, which was already cheap compared to pre-rolled.
 
Gallery loads using Unique are great fun. 7 gr is the min charge for boolits listed in the Lyman manual. I would not go below that.

Another powder to look at is WC735, a surplus powder sold by Higginson`s. Works great in the 30-30 using lead boolits. I use 25 gr under my Lyman 170 gr 311041 boolit for 1974fps and find it extremely accurate in my Marlin 336. The 311041 is a GC boolit.

If you want more info on shooting lead using your 30-30 go join the Cast Boolit Forum. Once you start shooting lead you will be hooked.

Take Care

Bob
 
TargetAquired, glad to be of help. You are right, these loads actually do pack quite a punch.

I fired one of my berry's loads into a solid clay bank this summer and it penetrated about 13"! Those 165's you're using must hit hard too.

I was going to try some, I just haven't bought any yet.

But yeah, cheap and fun. Since I started loading these I'm shooting my old '94 more than anything else!
 
At $35 for 200 good projectiles, and only needing an average of 10 grains of powder, it's not hard to see the value proposition reloading makes on a caliber like this.

I'm too afraid to join yet another forum. I can barely afford the ones I already belong to...
 
I paid $50 for 300 berry's so they are about the same. I'm using bullet barn lead in my 38 and really like them too.

The berry's seem to be hard cast as well because they don't deform. I like to shoot jacketed bullets in the same gun and with the berry's I don't have to worry about cleaning when switching between lead and copper, otherwise I'd be using the same bullets you are.
 
Looking at some of the hits in the steel plate, I really wanted to get a good look at a fired projectile, but couldn't find a single one. I could see where lots went into a tree, but I wasn't about to cut a tree down to pull a bullet from it.
 
They might be shattering, they're pretty hard. Brinell 25 I think.

Try shooting into clay like I did, you could almost shoot the bullet again except it had a nick from where it hit a stone and peeled a bit of the plating off.

Hard cast is HARD.
 
Wait until winter. The bullets stop in about 3 - 4 ft of snow depending on velocity and meplat. You can pick them up then in almost reshootable condition in the spring or by searching through the snow.

TargetAcquired
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you already have the bug it is only a matter of time. Guys shoot round balls using the 30-30 cartridge as well. A Lee 20lb pot, RCBS lubricator, a mold or two...I suggest you start sourcing WW`s cuz you are going to need them.:.)

Most of the plated bullets use either Lyman No. 2 alloy or pure lead which is quite soft. The Lyman alloy has a Brinell of 16 vs Linotype at 22. The latter is useful in high velocity rifle bullets and generally not needed for most cast bullet applications.

Take Care

Bob
 
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I trade wheel weights. The shop has approx. 500lb of them collecting dust. I have no current interest in casting - that may change in the future, but I just started reloading less than a year ago, and it's getting to the point where if I learn something new, I'll have to forget something old.
 
What issues do you run into as far a lead fouling the barrel?
Does anyone have a recipe for 30-30 using Unique with a cast 165 over it? Start loads/max loads.

Thanks
 
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