.30 carbine

[migrant hunter]

Anyone here loading for an m1 carbine?
I'm finding that there's barely a thou of clearance around the base of the case, just ahead of the rim. I've had rounds not go into battery and be very hard to get back out. I'm using lee dies and once fired brass. Maybe my brass is no good?
I'd like to make a sizer to hit the last little bit of the case. Thoughts?

 

[Joe Amorosi]

I use the Lee dies and have never had that issue. I set my dies so that they just touch the shell holder.
Check your case length. Very important for M1 carbine.

 

[VanceM]

As Joe said it’s likely a case issue,

M1 carbines headspace on case length. if I remember correctly (I don’t have a loading manual to check right now) the case length is something like 1.290-.005in. Anything over and the case is too long for the action to close

 

[coyoteshooter]

while were on the subject have any of you shot cast from your m 1 i am thinking ........will there be any problem with lead in the gas port thanks sorry to but in

 

[Joe Amorosi]

while were on the subject have any of you shot cast from your m 1 i am thinking ........will there be any problem with lead in the gas port thanks sorry to but in

Yes, eventually you will get some build up. You will notice it when your action stops cycling properly (FTF or FTE). Easily cleaned with a small piece of copper wire etc. poked in the hole. This is where the piston nut wrench comes in real handy...

 

[OkayShooter]

As Joe said it’s likely a case issue,

M1 carbines headspace on case length. if I remember correctly (I don’t have a loading manual to check right now) the case length is something like 1.290-.005in. Anything over and the case is too long for the action to close

Yup 1.290 is correct.

I run RCBS dies with a Lee factory crimp die.

 

[Joe Amorosi]

To the OP,
Also, when seating the bullet, use No Crimp. Those Lee All In One Seating/Crimping dies suck. They have a tendency to crush the case and create a bulge. Set the die just deep enough to straighten out the flair. If you want a crimp, buy the separate Lee Factory Crimp Die (~$20)
That could also be an issue... Too much flair on the case mouth

 

[Aniest]

To the OP,
Also, when seating the bullet, use No Crimp. Those Lee All In One Seating/Crimping dies suck. They have a tendency to crush the case and create a bulge. Set the die just deep enough to straighten out the flair. If you want a crimp, buy the separate Lee Factory Crimp Die (~$20)
That could also be an issue... Too much flair on the case mouth

I use the Lee dies and have never had that issue. I set my dies so that they just touch the shell holder.
Check your case length. Very important for M1 carbine.

Yup 1.290 is correct.

I run RCBS dies with a Lee factory crimp die.

Just chiming in as another voice to back up and confirm what is said: case length and the case bulge issue are absolutely major concerns with the carbine round!

 

[1oldfart]

Anyone here loading for an m1 carbine?
I'm finding that there's barely a thou of clearance around the base of the case, just ahead of the rim. I've had rounds not go into battery and be very hard to get back out. I'm using lee dies and once fired brass. Maybe my brass is no good?
I'd like to make a sizer to hit the last little bit of the case. Thoughts?

to may need to roll size the brass

 

[migrant hunter]

It's not case length, I can see where the cases are sticking. The gun is an auto ordinance. Either my chamber is tight or my brass is too fat at the base. It's only on the odd one. I need to measure again and see if the brass is in spec.

 

[Joe Amorosi]

It's not case length, I can see where the cases are sticking. The gun is an auto ordinance. Either my chamber is tight or my brass is too fat at the base. It's only on the odd one. I need to measure again and see if the brass is in spec.

My new/unfired factory S&B cases measure .350 at the base and taper all the way to the mouth.
My many times fired brass (using the Lee dies) measures at ~.352 at the base
I can't get an accurate measurement of my chamber until I pull the bolt but it's a NR criterion barrel finish reamed by Vulcan
Hope this info helps

 

[migrant hunter]

My new/unfired factory S&B cases measure .350 at the base and taper all the way to the mouth.
My many times fired brass (using the Lee dies) measures at ~.352 at the base
I can't get an accurate measurement of my chamber until I pull the bolt but it's a NR criterion barrel finish reamed by Vulcan
Hope this info helps

Thank you sir, that's what I was looking for. Lee manual say .355, my loaded rounds are .353/.354.
They barely chamber at .354. I'll see if I can make a sizer to knock that down a little. I bought an assortment of fired brass from different people, so different guns, maybe fired more that once.

 

[slug]

Make sure that your case holder bumps the bottom of the resizing die, to make sure you get really full, full length resizing.
If it doesn't fully work, you could grind a few thou off the top of the shell holder to give you a bit more. A last resort.
Case length is important.0 A half century back, I blew off the extractor of an M1 by having cases too long.

The M1 carbine is dandy for shooting cast bullets. Yes, the gas port gets gummed up with bullet residue, but it takes a few hundred rounds or so, and it's an easy fix. I haven't tried powder coated bullets in an M1, but it should be an easy cure if residue develops.

 

[Joe Amorosi]

Thank you sir, that's what I was looking for. Lee manual say .355, my loaded rounds are .353/.354.
They barely chamber at .354. I'll see if I can make a sizer to knock that down a little. I bought an assortment of fired brass from different people, so different guns, maybe fired more that once.

SAAMI specs call for the chamber to be .358 at .200 above the bolt face. If you are having trouble chambering at .354, it may be worth your while to have your AO finish reamed

 

[Garand]

The M1 carbine is dandy for shooting cast bullets. Yes, the gas port gets gummed up with bullet residue, but it takes a few hundred rounds or so, and it's an easy fix. I haven't tried powder coated bullets in an M1, but it should be an easy cure if residue develops.

I have run 2,000 lubed cast lead bullets and 1,000 powder coated bullets through my 2 Inland (1943/1945) M1 Carbines. With the lubed cast lead bullets (100 grain, pushed by IMR 4227 best accuracy at 1681.8 fps) running flawlessly. The commercial manufacturer that I bought from then started powder coating his bullets which is where my nightmare started.

I was shooting a 3 gun match where I first used the powder coated bullets. One stage was 55 rds of rifle caliber ammo (yes I have that many magazines). I got to the 51st rd and the action was so hot that it seized up. My best guess was that the receiver was so hot it was melting the powder coating. Putting that 1,000 powder coated bullets down range was nothing more than an exercise in frustration.

x2 with RCBS dies and a separate Lee Taper Crimp die. Highly recommend the purchase a gas piston tool, one of my Israeli Inlands piston worked itself loose, and a bolt disassembly tool. With CamPro bullets I have had good luck with Lil Gun (1,919.0 fps) and 2400 (1,733.7 fps).

 

[slug]

Well, that was eye opening about powder coated bullets.
Fortunately, I don't dun my guns that hard.

 

[Garand]

I keep about 500 loaded lubed cast lead bullets and another 500 unloaded cast lead bullets just in case I come up to a match that specifies lead bullets but these days considering the cost of CamPro FMJ is the same as cast lead, I will go with FMJ. Less hassle. Another plus is that they make great gallery rds in my .30-30.