300 RUM & 416 rigby, Another which cartridge thread

I shot 10rnds out of my 416 rigby. In one outing I might add. Felt like I had been run over and left for dead. Those were 400gn projectiles. I have 245gn bullets now and a break installed haven't tried it yet Should be a lot nicer. About 3000 fps with 245gn.


When I first got my .416 I shot it with Weatherby level loads, no scope and a factory CZ recoil pad that serves to prove that they have a sense of humor and not much else. To describe it as brutal would be an understatement. My arm would go numb with every shot, then when the feeling and pain returned I'd be wishing for the numbness back.

I mounted the scope, which added a pound, put a limbsaver pad on it and dropped the 400 grain loads down to Rigby speeds where it belongs. Day and night improvement and the majority of that was just from the pad change. It became fun to shoot after that.
 
So I hop'd on this forum last year round hunting time and learned and conversed alot especially since I'm a vz58 owner. Great group of people here, so a little fodder for the experienced and inexperianced who like to let others know there opinion. I have had a good hunting season so far 4 ducks and a goose. Since big game is coming up I thought I'd pose this query. For moose and *cross fingers* bison. Which gun would you rather have a remington 700 cdl 300 RUM or CZ550 in 416 rigby. I have access to a 700 in 300 wsm which will do moose just fine. But if you think that using something available is sufficient you wouldn't be here lol. Now bigger shot doesn't make an improper shot acceptable. The area I'm hunting is 50-75 yard clearings up to 200 max edge to edge and moderate brush. However for the sake of conversation lets keep hunting grounds open to anything. Guns can be changed if you suggest a different rifle, however must be these 2 cartridges. A superfast 30cal or a thick hard hitting .416, and if you think this is stupid please give a reason. I'm human and have been known to have some outlandish idea's and plans.

You might be startled by the next level of recoil, a .416 Rigby makes a 3" Mag 12 gauge feel like a nice kid's gun. For your purposes, the .300 Win Mag will probably suit you a lot better. The .416 is roughly equivalent to firing three .300 Win Mag cartridges simultaneously from the same rifle, it's best kept for very experienced shooters. I respect your statements on being human and there are no dumb questions, the .416 is a perfect Bison cartridge but more than the vast majority of shooters can truthfully handle, even experienced ones.

I'd actually point you a .375 H&H Mag, it's the literal middle ground between the two cartridges you've selected, will do anything either of the other two will for the ranges and applications you're talking, and is likely the best all round cartridge ever devised. It's recoil is substantially beyond a .300 mag but still manageable for experienced shooters. This is probably still well beyond what most would shoot well with your experience, but it's a lot more manageable than the .416. It is also literally the perfect Wood Bison cartridge, I've used it on them myself.


Ardent as usual provides good advice, and Dogleg's experience should not be ignored.

OP, if one intends to hunt with a .416 Rigby, and use it as he would any other general purpose big game rifle that is normally chambered for a milder cartridge, rather than as a stopping rifle that is only fired off hand, (which in my opinion unnecessarily limits it's potential) you must first fully master it. This can only be accomplished through frequent exposure to that level of recoil. You must want to master it, and convince yourself that these things are designed to be used by ordinary people, and that the recoil is not beyond your limitations.

But the first step is to ensure the rifle correctly fits you, most adults do better with a 13.5" LOP rather than with 14", but that is a generality which may or may not apply to you. Next ensure the rifle wears a high quality recoil pad with a large contact surface with your shoulder. If the rifle is scoped, and the LOP fits you, ensure the ocular lens does not extend behind the bolt's cocking piece, if it does, you will learn to fear that scope, and you'll never shoot the rifle well. It will be to your advantage to have the rifle both glass and pillar bedded, or you will be looking at a cracked stock within 20 rounds. Once those considerations have been attended to, you are now ready to begin shooting.

I found that 350 gr bullets, specifically those from Barnes and Speer, loaded ahead of 102 grs of H-4350, gave me 2850 fps from a 24" barrel, and I was unable to tell the difference in recoil between these loads and the 400 gr loads. The trajectory with 350 gr semi spitzer bullets was in line with a .30/06 loaded with a 180 gr bullet of similar style. I didn't find the report debilitating, provided I didn't shoot alongside a solid object which reflected the blast back towards me, although frequent unprotected exposure to gunfire will certainly result in problems for you down the road.

Begin shooting off hand. Your position should have you in a boxers stance leaning your weight over the toes of your forward foot. The butt should be held firmly into your shoulder, and the elbow of your shooting arm should be held low to keep the pocket of your shoulder closed. The grip on the pistol grip must be firm, or the recoil will throw your hand clear of the stock. Once you have developed a comfort level with the rifle, you can experiment with different grip styles to see which allows you to cycle the action the most quickly, but for now just hold on tight. When you fire that first shot out of the rifle, the recoil impulse will move across your chest and down your rearward placed leg, and if you're lucky you will wonder what you were so worried about. Take care not to mash you cheek down hard on the comb of the stock, as you might be tempted to with a Monte Carlo stock if attempting to use the iron sights. The sensation I can assure you will be disagreeable. Keep your shot string short, and don't continue to shoot if the recoil becomes uncomfortable. Never allow the rifle to hurt you, or you'll develop a flinch that will take much effort to overcome, if it ever is. Stop and take frequent breaks, and if you've fired 3 rounds without issue, take a break and go check you target, before shooting your next string. Due to the large powder capacity of this cartridge, expect the barrel to get hot quickly, so 5 round strings are beat avoided unless you intend to wait an inordinate period of time between rounds. That is not how a .416 is typically used in the field.

Once your offhand marksmanship equals what you can accomplish with other hunting rifles, its time to shoot from supported positions. Begin with kneeling, where just the support arm is supported on your raised knee. If you typically shoot with the aid of a shooting sling, it should be used to help stabilize your position. Proceed as you did when shooting off hand, short shot strings, and taking a break if you find the recoil produces discomfort. Again, never allow the rifle to hurt you. Once you've mastered the kneeling position, and can shoot from kneeling as well with the .416 as you can with lesser cartridges, lower you position a bit more and being shooting from sitting, proceeding in the same vein as from the higher positions.

You may or may not at some point be tempted to shoot from prone. I shot both the .416 Rigby and the .375 Ultra from prone without issue, but I don't recommend it for everyone. I could shoot 5 rounds of .375 Ultra from prone, but 3 rounds of .416 Rigby prone was my limit before my focus began to waver, the 4th round always hurt, and knowing that, it was foolish to continue. I had a video of myself shooting my .375 Ultra from slung up prone, and when viewed in slow motion, you could see my shoulder driven back 4"-6" with each shot. What it would have looked like with the .416, I can only imagine.

If you are determined to master the big kickers, its rewarding to get there, and the accuracy that is possible from these big rifles is astonishing. The downside is that the cost of shooting these rifles is prohibitive, and that might adversely affect the frequency with which you can shoot. You must shoot frequently to master these rifles, where shooting once a month will not allow you to progress. Hope this helps.
 
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Boomer, as we have become accustomed to, gives sage advice.

You have to shoot one of these big rifles to truly appreciate the amount of recoil they dole out.

If you can handle them, they tend to be surprisingly accurate, as stated.

Making a wise choice is vital. Cheers, Dave.
 
I have owned and shot several rifles with a .416 bore, they are a wonderful caliber and far more versatile than most would think. I have done most of my 416 shooting with a Taylor I owned for years and took on my first Safari. This rifle shot 400 grn Barnes originals and 410 gn Horn solids to the same POI at 2420 fps. It was built on an old Ruger Round top custom barreled by Bevan King and was quite pleasant to shoot. Far more pleasant than my Ruger #1 in 458 WM and every bit as effective on game with a significantly better trajectory.
I had a custom made .416 Rigby on an old P14/17 action by Bevan but didn't keep it long as I sold it to help finance my first Safari. It was super accurate but LOP was a tad long for me so it wasn't overly pleasant to shoot. I had a .416 Rem for a bit but it was just a passing fad, I shot it quite a bit but yearned for another "REAL" Rigby so when one came by in a 602 Brno I grabbed it, which is my concession to the .416 bore now a days.
The Rigby loaded to original Rigby ballistics is not a difficult rifle to master, assuming it is in a rifle of appropriate weight, but with the powders we have now it can be turned into a firebreathing dragon mule, driving 400 gn bullets at 2700 fps and kicking somewhere between the 378 and 460 Wby (which of course it is, as it is nothing really other than a beltless 416 Wby sans radiuses). I haven't shot my latest one hardly at all as I need to bed it before continuing, and I have about 100 projects ahead of it.
My experiences with the .416 bore have been nothing but positive and it is much easier to master than say a Lott, which will drive 500 grnrs at 2400 fps. As boomer said the 350s at 26-2700 are more like shooting a heavy loaded 375 and improve trajectories to something similar to a .308/30-06 making it a truly versatile rifle that when armed with, one need fear nothing on this planet.
John Taylor wrote of the 416 Rigby that it killed well above it's weight class and compared it favorably to any of the .458 offerings. He quite liked the Rigby and lauded it's accuracy and ease of shooting given it's outstanding killing ability, and Taylor was not a lover of medium bores on heavy dangerous game, but he rated the Rigby well up among the heavies with it's penetration and lethality.
If one wants a .416 Rigby, one should have one in my opinion, but reloading is pretty much essential. Start with 350s at about 21-2200 and work up the power levels as desired. With 350s at these speeds it will feel like a 9.3X62 or 375 H&H and becomes very easy to shoot. One can then boost up power levels to anything you like right up to 400 grnrs at 2700 if you feel the need. However the Rigby really shines with 400s about 24-2450 fps and is enough for any hunting of any game anywhere.
 
On the other hand, there's shooting at the range developing loads, and then there's shooting at game. I got to see this first hand a couple years ago while hunting in Africa with A-Zone. We had a couple observers along (one a brand-new shooter), and both were given the opportunity to shoot plains game with a A-Zone's .416 Rigby. Neither were much bothered by the recoil, being pretty much distracted by the joy of having made clean kills on their respective game animals (a zebra and an impala). When I asked one of them how he found the recoil, I just got a blank look and the response "What recoil?". The funny thing about recoil is, within sane limits anyway, it only really hurts when we know it's coming. And when we know, it can hurt quite a lot.
 
I was shooting a couple days back and noticed that I was a touch sore from the 15 rounds of 470 I shot off the bags last Thursday. Made the 350 RM a little unpleasant, which it normally isn't, but when already a tad sore it becomes much more unpleasant. When I shot it yesterday I used a paperback book and it never hurt a bit, and I got her tuned right in.
 
There are some superb contributions on this thread, thanks to everyone for that. I feel almost silly offering a comment after some of the posters who posted here but this is something I have put some thought into lately as well: continued building of a rifle battery and which levels of power and recoil were appropriate for me and my possible hunting scenarios.

I have never been particularly sensitive to recoil but I have been able to see for myself quite clearly the issue with being comfortable enough to shoot well. I'm a 12 gauge junkie and may have become comfortable with a certain level of recoil from that obsession. I went with a .308 Sako Finnlight as my "all around" gun. It "kicks" more than it should because of the light weight but is easily manageable without any flinch for many shots at a time.

I then decided that I would add some additional rifles to the battery to round it out a bit more. I stumbled onto a Hawkeye in .375 Ruger and chose it just because it was a blue collar, stainless, laminate and CRF which is what I wanted. Had the exact same hardware been available in H&H I would have got that but so far I'm pleased. I can usually manage 1 moa within at 100 yards with concentration from a standing rest (have not tried further) but have had to take proper technique seriously to adjust to the recoil. It probably represents the highest level of recoil I can shoot properly with my current skill level and experience.

Most recently I was fortunate enough to pick up a mint mid 60's vintage Rem 700 in 300 win mag from a fellow CGNer and it is an instant favourite. Heavy enough to take some of the edge off the recoil and is shooting 0.5 moa off sand bags while seated with cheap federal factory loads. Again, the shooting technique had to be adjusted a bit from what I could get away with on the .308 to
shoot it well but it's a skillset that is in progress.

I say all of that to say that I have gradually phased in bigger recoilers from the early days of .22s, light 12 gauge loads and .243s. A good calibre is always one a shooter can handle properly. I could not handle a .416 or .300RUM nearly as well as the rifles I own, if at all. I dream of being able to have the adventures some of the earlier posters have had and may get to that level one day, but the progression is important and I've taken the steps in stride and am glad to not have rushed moving up to big bores. All in due time and with an increasing level of skill and confidence.

Cheers
 
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