Barrel length for hunting. I wouldn't want to go more than 24" on a hunting gun. You get good results out of the .300 WM in 24". Looking at the numbers you would probably want a 26" PRC gun to gain any statistical velocity/energy advantages over the Winny.
300 Win or 300 PRC
- Thread starter ShaunC
- Start date
I’ve got a real preference for standard length cartridges in magnum length magazine boxes. It gives the flexibility to load just about anything out to reach the lands, and as time goes on to chase those lands. Many factory rifles come that way, I wish they all did.
I’m not saying that a rifle will always shoot on or close to the lands, or that some rifles with long jumps don’t shoot, but its a pretty huge tuning factor to give up before you even start.
The 300 Win plays nicely with that school of thought.
On muzzle brakes, I have mixed feelings. I’ve got them, put some on and taken lots off. Taken more off than I put on. The gill style are more effective than radials. Shooting a radial style from prone has the real chance of getting a face full of high speed dirt. The most effective brake I’ve ever used is a couple of Kirby Allen painkillers. They might sound like someone just blasted off the gates of hell, but they will stop a big gun or a big light gun dead in its tracks. The one on my 375 Cheytac (350 grain bullet with 130 grains of Retumbo) was somethng of an event to shoot, knocking down grass 30 feet to each side but recoil was basically nil. The big light gun is a 7 Allen, his smallest brake, 8 pounds bare, 103 grains of Retumbo with 195s for 3350 fps. My 22/250 kicks more but that wall of gas hitting you might make you wonder if recoil was such a bad thing after all.
I’m not saying that a rifle will always shoot on or close to the lands, or that some rifles with long jumps don’t shoot, but its a pretty huge tuning factor to give up before you even start.
The 300 Win plays nicely with that school of thought.
On muzzle brakes, I have mixed feelings. I’ve got them, put some on and taken lots off. Taken more off than I put on. The gill style are more effective than radials. Shooting a radial style from prone has the real chance of getting a face full of high speed dirt. The most effective brake I’ve ever used is a couple of Kirby Allen painkillers. They might sound like someone just blasted off the gates of hell, but they will stop a big gun or a big light gun dead in its tracks. The one on my 375 Cheytac (350 grain bullet with 130 grains of Retumbo) was somethng of an event to shoot, knocking down grass 30 feet to each side but recoil was basically nil. The big light gun is a 7 Allen, his smallest brake, 8 pounds bare, 103 grains of Retumbo with 195s for 3350 fps. My 22/250 kicks more but that wall of gas hitting you might make you wonder if recoil was such a bad thing after all.
I never really played with brakes all that much, a 300 win mag Mossberg something and with the muzzle brake(pretty basic as brakes goes I think) is pretty darn effective. The other is a friend of mine 338 Lapua and the weight of the rifle and the brake combine make it possible to see your own hit at 500m I was pretty impressed. And to be honest they are not a big deal when you are behind the trigger but damn they are a paint in the ears when you are not and worst really is the “commotion” from them when you stand perpendicular to them. The worst one commotion wise was from a friend 28 nosler gunwork rifle… I’d was crazy!!
The only brake I’ve had was on the 300 Wby. It was one of Weatherby’s SST Accubrakes.
There was a lot of concussive blast from it (obviously), but I don’t think I’d want that Cal w/out a brake to be honest. It certainly made it manageable to shoot, i’d say somewhere as a light ‘06 or 270WSM range.
I was kind of spoiled by having a brake, so now as I search for the replacement for the 300 Bee a brake has become a main feature I want.. go figure
