The .300WSM is a caliber that does best with annealing with any brand of brass. I had similar problems which went away with annealing. Annealing doesn't need to be complicated. I used the method using a candle as suggested by John Barsness on the 24 hr. Campfire forum.
300 WSM and split necks.........
- Thread starter c-fbmi
- Start date
Another method to anneal is using a drill/socket attachment as ammosmith uses (google ammosmith annealing). I have used this method and am happy with the results. The method is not precise and relies on timing and/or colour change to the brass. But with a bit of tinkering you will get reasonable results. Elky....
So obviously I'm not alone in this problem, my question is though, why is this so prevalent in the 300 WSM and not other cases? I have other W-W brass of the same vintage but different cartridges and have loaded it much more and never have I had this frequency of split necks. Like I said I even saw 2 factory out of 20 split their necks, I've never seen any other caliber do this with such frightening frequency. Win quality notwithstanding, this cal seems to have a real penchant for splitting necks. I have measured my necks and find they are almost twice as thick as any other 30 cal out there, and the chamber drawings confirm this. I wonder why Winchester felt that the necks needed to be so much thicker than say, the 300 WM.
bearkilr
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nowhere, ......just past the middle
I suspect Winchester brass is at fault. I had a batch of 270 WSM brass where the primer pockets were too large on about 30/50 in the bag. There's lots of info about this on the net,QC has gone downhill as of late in their brass manufacturing. I would try a different brand.
Bearkilr;
Were them primer pockets loose before or AFTER the first firing LOL
Ya I know about the poor quality of Win brass but even that doesn't explain why it is sooooo prevalent in the 300 WSM. As I said I have gobs of new win brass in a host of cartridges purchased before and after the 300 WSM brass that do not split necks in one or two loadings. I have experienced the folded necks and oversize flash holes and undersize flash holes, different tensions seating primers and all that, but neck splitting seems to be unique to the 300 WSM or maybe all the WSMs. This is where the question is in my mind.
I don't worry about primer pocket variations because mine are all the same size after the first firing
..........then out comes the red locktite.
Were them primer pockets loose before or AFTER the first firing LOL
Ya I know about the poor quality of Win brass but even that doesn't explain why it is sooooo prevalent in the 300 WSM. As I said I have gobs of new win brass in a host of cartridges purchased before and after the 300 WSM brass that do not split necks in one or two loadings. I have experienced the folded necks and oversize flash holes and undersize flash holes, different tensions seating primers and all that, but neck splitting seems to be unique to the 300 WSM or maybe all the WSMs. This is where the question is in my mind.
I don't worry about primer pocket variations because mine are all the same size after the first firing
..........then out comes the red locktite.
FWIW ... I have not had issue so far with my 325 WSM Brass, however most of it is 3x fired. However the 300 WSM brass so far has been junk, all WW. The Nosler brass I have not used more than once yet.
bearkilr
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nowhere, ......just past the middle
New, unfired brass.Bearkilr;
Were them primer pockets loose before or AFTER the first firing LOL
Ya I know about the poor quality of Win brass but even that doesn't explain why it is sooooo prevalent in the 300 WSM. As I said I have gobs of new win brass in a host of cartridges purchased before and after the 300 WSM brass that do not split necks in one or two loadings. I have experienced the folded necks and oversize flash holes and undersize flash holes, different tensions seating primers and all that, but neck splitting seems to be unique to the 300 WSM or maybe all the WSMs. This is where the question is in my mind.
I don't worry about primer pocket variations because mine are all the same size after the first firing
Sad story actually. I knew damn well some felt a bit loose when seating with RCBS hand primer. I fired a few rounds through rifle (Kimber) anyhow and the primer melted on a couple rounds and I got some flame cutting on the bolt face.
That's the last time I've used WW brass and the remainder went in the garbage.FWIW, they weren't hot loads either.
I blame the shoulder angle.............
and as for lapua being any better..........well we all have success and failure stories
I still stand behind my winchester brass in everything, but brass prep is key, its something you can do yourself or you can pay for the smaller companies to do it for you. My winchester 222 remington brass is hit and miss as to if or when its going to split, but then so is my remington 6.8 spc brass, and everyone one of them that has gone was like losing a close friend..................
and as for lapua being any better..........well we all have success and failure stories
I still stand behind my winchester brass in everything, but brass prep is key, its something you can do yourself or you can pay for the smaller companies to do it for you. My winchester 222 remington brass is hit and miss as to if or when its going to split, but then so is my remington 6.8 spc brass, and everyone one of them that has gone was like losing a close friend..................
ALBERTA BOY
Regular
- Location
- Edmonton, AB
I have 10 boxes of the 40 round Winchester white box 45gr 223 JHP ammo.
So far, every box has exhibited split necks with no apparent explanation except that Winchester makes crappy brass.
So far, every box has exhibited split necks with no apparent explanation except that Winchester makes crappy brass.
- Location
- Haliburton County, Central Ontario
I too prefer Winchester brass unless I am using a premium brass like Lapua. The only problem with split necks I have experienced is with the .350 Rem Mag using Remington brass. In one bag of 50 new brass, the second firing produced split necks in about a quarter of the cases. I annealed the remainder and they have been fine since. My experience tells me that Remington makes the most consistently poor quality brass. There are good lots and bad lots too, so if you get a bad lot, as I expect I did with the .350, then you need to move on. Problem with the .350 is that until this year Remington was the only company making brass. Now Nosler makes it too. I do hope to heck it's not made by Remington in the back room!
Annealing doesn't need to be any more complicated than a proper sized socket on the end of a cordless drill held in a propane torch's flame and done over a bucket of water for immediate quenching. Timing is, however, everything. Fast and easy.
Annealing doesn't need to be any more complicated than a proper sized socket on the end of a cordless drill held in a propane torch's flame and done over a bucket of water for immediate quenching. Timing is, however, everything. Fast and easy.
I too prefer Winchester brass unless I am using a premium brass like Lapua. The only problem with split necks I have experienced is with the .350 Rem Mag using Remington brass. In one bag of 50 new brass, the second firing produced split necks in about a quarter of the cases. I annealed the remainder and they have been fine since. My experience tells me that Remington makes the most consistently poor quality brass. There are good lots and bad lots too, so if you get a bad lot, as I expect I did with the .350, then you need to move on. Problem with the .350 is that until this year Remington was the only company making brass. Now Nosler makes it too. I do hope to heck it's not made by Remington in the back room!
Annealing doesn't need to be any more complicated than a proper sized socket on the end of a cordless drill held in a propane torch's flame and done over a bucket of water for immediate quenching. Timing is, however, everything. Fast and easy.
I 2nd this statment about anealing to the Letter !
Problem with the .350 is that until this year Remington was the only company making brass. Now Nosler makes it too. I do hope to heck it's not made by Remington in the back room!
Nosler doesn't make cartridge cases period. They source brass from several different manufactures who imprint the Nosler headstamp on the cases. All Nosler does is prep and weight-source the cases so they are ready to reload right out of the box. Chances are your .350 brass are indeed made by Remington.
'Boo is correct, Nosler uses brass from every maker, and for those that are made by many, whoever is the cheapest but within specs gets the contract. However Noslers own quality control is fantastic, think of buying 300 brass for your rifle, sorting them and picking the best most uniform 50, then trimming, chamfering and making sure they are all within the proper length and weight. That's what makes Nosler brass so nice, hand picked, sorted, and prepped for loading. I personally don't care who they get it from because they do a fantastic job of sorting and prepping, I just watch for when they need to be annealed.
- Location
- Haliburton County, Central Ontario
Thanks for the info regarding Nosler brass gentlemen. I had no idea. As always, good information here on CGN. It would appear I may be going sideways with the .350 brass then. I guess annealing really is the answer to the (my) case neck issue.
