I'm currently using165 btsp is in a wsm and will for a while, I have almost a carton of them, a deal I couldn't pass up. But load 178edl for a frends wsm, has taken moose, elk, deer and loves them. Most likely what I'll load for myself next.
300wm bullet selection
- Thread starter Aabradsh
- Start date
I had a similar experience with Barnes 200gr TSX in a 300 RUM. Small buck, 50 yards, bullet didn't expand at all. Was lucky to find that deer two hours later....
- Location
- Saskatoon Saskatchewan
Use any bullet you want for deer. You can just run the cheapest bullet that your gun shoots good, good shot placement, and any deer sized game is done. The heavier rounds tend to have a bit of a delayed kill on deer compared to lighter rounds. But dead none the less.
For elk and moose, or larger game, I tend to like heavier binded bullets. As I am a huge fan of an expanding bullet that exits and leaves a hole in and out of the game, and has the ability to go through heavy bone. I would start at 180+ but 200 or even more is better, to me anyway.
Basically any bonded bullet or lead free bullet will do the job on larger game very well, and accomplish the task. But not all cup and core bullets are equal either. I would not hesitate to use a 180 grain Nosler Ballistic Tip bullet. It is a very heavy jacketed bullet that works very well on big game at 300 win mag velocity. One example of a bullet that changes greatly depending on weight, and caliber.
Woodleigh bullets are one of my favorite bullets to run, too bad they had a large fire that destroyed everything, and taking awhile to get bullets back in Canada. One note on the lead free bullets, that you probably already know. Sometimes picking a bit lighter bullet than you would with a traditional lead bullet is sometimes better, because they require quite a bit of velocity to expand properly, and fully. Not all of them, but most of them. Pay close attention to required barrel twist rate as well, because as they go up in weight they will require a faster twist than traditional bullets. Because they are usually quite a bit longer bullet to get the same weight as a heavy lead bullet. The Barnes LRX line in 30 caliber specifically need their twist rate payed attention to.
For elk and moose, or larger game, I tend to like heavier binded bullets. As I am a huge fan of an expanding bullet that exits and leaves a hole in and out of the game, and has the ability to go through heavy bone. I would start at 180+ but 200 or even more is better, to me anyway.
Basically any bonded bullet or lead free bullet will do the job on larger game very well, and accomplish the task. But not all cup and core bullets are equal either. I would not hesitate to use a 180 grain Nosler Ballistic Tip bullet. It is a very heavy jacketed bullet that works very well on big game at 300 win mag velocity. One example of a bullet that changes greatly depending on weight, and caliber.
Woodleigh bullets are one of my favorite bullets to run, too bad they had a large fire that destroyed everything, and taking awhile to get bullets back in Canada. One note on the lead free bullets, that you probably already know. Sometimes picking a bit lighter bullet than you would with a traditional lead bullet is sometimes better, because they require quite a bit of velocity to expand properly, and fully. Not all of them, but most of them. Pay close attention to required barrel twist rate as well, because as they go up in weight they will require a faster twist than traditional bullets. Because they are usually quite a bit longer bullet to get the same weight as a heavy lead bullet. The Barnes LRX line in 30 caliber specifically need their twist rate payed attention to.
Lots of answers so far. Notice there is a trend! I’ve used 150 Ballistic Tip, 180gr Ballistic Tip, Partition and Accubond, 200gr Partion and 220gr Partition. Also used 200gr Partition in .300 Wby.
I prefer the 200gr Partition and the 220 if in timber for up to 300 yards. I mostly use H1000.
If you are thinking of costs savings, the Partition is out as pricing has become ridiculous.
I prefer the 200gr Partition and the 220 if in timber for up to 300 yards. I mostly use H1000.
If you are thinking of costs savings, the Partition is out as pricing has become ridiculous.
use cup and core bullets easy! For moose and elk use partions! Done
I'm assuming that's a load for a 180 grain partition? You weren't quite clear on the grain weight. But that charge weight makes sense for 180 grain, but could also be used on the 165 grain.
I don’t suggest 165gr for moose !
Either 180 or 200 gr !
