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I have an #1 MK3 and it looks as if it was straight out of ww1. I bought this guns years ago just as a piece of history with no intent on shooting it, having alot of other rifles and such. Now after reading about these I have the bug to fire this old baby,But I was once told to get it checked out first by a smith and can't remember why. I read something about(head space ?) and this rang a bell.Is there some general thing with the Enfields that has to be looked at before firing modern ammo? What should I do? Thanks all
 
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I'll let someone more knowledgeable comment on checking headspace, but yes, it should be checked out before you take it to the range. I'm curious as to what model you have; for example, what markings are there on the metal, and what markings on the stock?
Has the rifle been sporterized? Has it been altered in any way you can see? Do the serial numbers on the receiver, bolt, and anywhere else all match? Better still, can you post a picture?
 
But I was once told to get it checked out first by a smith and can't remember why. I read something about(head space ?) and this rang a bell.

If you're not sure what head spacing means for .303 Enfields, check in the "Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders"http://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25 area of the Knowledge Libary.

It contains a very good article with animations from Parashooter........

Headspace 101 for .303's (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=10

Hope this helps ... :)

Regards,
Badger

ps: If you aren't a member you have to join, however, you can register for FREE..... Sorry, but if we don't have people register with legitimate email addresses, we get plastered with posts from spammers sellling on-line presciption drugs and advertising ####ography sites.
 
.............It contains a very good article with animations from Parashooter........

Headspace 101 for .303's (click here)...............

Anything that Parashooter says is well researched and well described and stands up to scrutiny. He's the best authority on anything he writes about that I've found.

As for headspace and the hysteria about it being out of spec, here's what Parashooter says:

"The point of all this is that excess headspace, even a bit beyond normal limits, isn't the terrible danger we've heard so much about. It's not a good thing for consistent ignition or long case life (although handloaders who neck-size or adjust F.L. dies carefully can control this) - but it's not a disaster waiting to happen.

Unless you're consistently getting broken cases when firing new ammo or brass, there's not much reason to be worried about headspace in these sturdy old Lee-Enfields. Relax and enjoy!"
 
Headspace is an issue for reloaders, as the case will stretch and fire form to fill the void of the chamber, as it is supposed to do. These military rifles had generous clearances (read sloppy) between case and chamber wall to allow many different manufacturers' cartridges covered with muck, sand, blood whatever, to chamber and fire in wartime conditions.

The big issue these days is that commercial cartridges are not as robust as the mil spec stuff and reloaders squeeze the brass back to original size in the reloading dies. Do this a few times and the metal of the cartridge will fatigue from being restretched and resqueezed. This was never an issue with milspec ammo as it was literaly a one shot cartridge that was never intended to be reloaded.

Headspace is another issue for target shooters who try to eek the last bit of acuracey out of a round. Has to do with the 'set up' of the bullet as it is presented to the rifling in the throat when the chamber is loaded.

If the bolt has the same serial number as to that of the rifle, chances are that the bolt was matched up and is still good. However, if the bolt number does not match, it has been swopped at some time and there is no sure way to know if the headspacing is good unless checked. There are special guages which resemble a stubby cartridge with rim. These are precision machined to fine tolerances. Basicly you slip one into the chamber and gently try to close the bolt. If the headspace is within limits, the bolt won't close, if too sloppy it will. There is a bit more to it, but that is the general concept. There are a series of 'go' and 'no go' guages and are quite expensive, not something that a person would likely buy to use once, but are good to have if you collect and shoot these things.

There is also a fiddely way of using an empty cartridge and feeler guages to measure the headspace, but unless you know what you are doing, take it to a smith set up to do the checking.

I usualy measure and if I think it is ok, I will take the chance and fire the rifle and inspect the fired case for any signs of problems. But then again, I'm a guy that runs with scissors, taught myself how to blast with dynamite and made my own parasail rig.

Modern North American commercial specs call for a headspace max of 64 thou, original milspec calls for 74 thou and wartime emergency spec was 84 thou. 84 thou is rattling loose so that shows how much leeway there is with the specs.
 
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If You neck size only the Brass will last longer but You should only use that Brass in the Rifle it was shot in and the Case is Fire Sized to that particular Chamber.
 
Always check the headspace on any Lee-Enfield before you shoot it. Thousands have been assembled out of parts bins and sold with zero QC. Having a matching serial number(the one on the bolt handle and the receiver) does not guarantee the headspace is ok. You have no idea if some twit changed the bolt head at some time. The downside is if the headspace is bad, you need a handful of bolt heads to try with proper guages until you find the right one.
"...you slip one into the chamber..." Under the extractor and gently close the bolt. The bolt should close, completely, on a Go, but not on a No-Go. If it does close on a No-Go, try a Field. If it closes on a Field, the rifle is unsafe to shoot with any ammo. Nothing you do to the case will fix bad headspace. Headspace is a manufacturing tolerance only.
Other than that you don't need to do anything to shoot modern commercial ammo. You will need to try as many brands as you can to find the ammo your rifle shoots best though. Or reload.
 
< But then again, I'm a guy that runs with scissors, taught myself how to blast with dynamite and made my own parasail rig.

I ride a 1982 Yamaha Vision motorcycle. Try to beat that :D

These guys' advices are good. When I got my first Lee Enfield, Bubba'ed and all, I knew nothing. Took it to a gunsmith. Firing my first few rounds was a lot less stressful after a knowledgeable guy in front of me showed me that my rifle was safe and why it was so.

"Headspace-happy-Lou"
 
Always check the headspace on any Lee-Enfield before you shoot it. Thousands have been assembled out of parts bins and sold with zero QC. Having a matching serial number(the one on the bolt handle and the receiver) does not guarantee the headspace is ok. You have no idea if some twit changed the bolt head at some time. The downside is if the headspace is bad, you need a handful of bolt heads to try with proper guages until you find the right one.
"...you slip one into the chamber..." Under the extractor and gently close the bolt. The bolt should close, completely, on a Go, but not on a No-Go. If it does close on a No-Go, try a Field. If it closes on a Field, the rifle is unsafe to shoot with any ammo. Nothing you do to the case will fix bad headspace. Headspace is a manufacturing tolerance only.
Other than that you don't need to do anything to shoot modern commercial ammo. You will need to try as many brands as you can to find the ammo your rifle shoots best though. Or reload.

God. I was so happy with what Andy said about headspace hysteria, and then it comes up again about three posts later.
 
If you're not sure what head spacing means for .303 Enfields, check in the "Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders"http://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25 area of the Knowledge Libary.

It contains a very good article with animations from Parashooter........

Headspace 101 for .303's (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=10

Hope this helps ... :)

It sure did. The best decription of headspace I've ever seen. The diagrams helped a lot.
 
Thanks for all the info you guy's. I'm sorry I can't post any pictures of it as I use an old, out dated computer here at work. I did some research on this gun because I was wondering what all these stamps were.I will bring it in and reply tomorrow night if anyone is interested what I beleive it to be. I'M NO EXPERT ON THIS.
 
Thanks for all the info you guy's. I'm sorry I can't post any pictures of it as I use an old, out dated computer here at work. I did some research on this gun because I was wondering what all these stamps were.I will bring it in and reply tomorrow night if anyone is interested what I beleive it to be. I'M NO EXPERT ON THIS.

I look forward to it, and I'm no expert either. But don't worry, this site is full of experts!
 
Sorry I forgot the info today but I will make note of it for tomorrow.This is what I know off the top of my head. 1916 or1918 last # is a little worn but I believe 1918. Lee Enfield short magazine.No 1MK 3. I believe it was made at the enfield factory.It has a lot of stamps on it (inspection stamps) and what not on it. I can't remember just what, but I guy gave me a site to go to that showed all the different marking and what they meant. I will bring the info in tomorrow. I am very interested in the history of these guns.I also got a bayonet for it a little while back.
 
I'll let someone more knowledgeable comment on checking headspace, but yes, it should be checked out before you take it to the range. I'm curious as to what model you have; for example, what markings are there on the metal, and what markings on the stock?
Has the rifle been sporterized? Has it been altered in any way you can see? Do the serial numbers on the receiver, bolt, and anywhere else all match? Better still, can you post a picture?

In answer to your question on the marks on this gun, I wouldn't know where to begin. I don't think this gun is anything special , but it is to me. To me it represents my freedom. Enough said, I will try my best to describe the markings and what i think they mean. I'm just learning so bear with me. Butt Socket has Crown G.R Enfield 1918 SMLE 111 (FTR) ? Other side of butt socket,No1 MK111 303B U.K, Crown 76 R 27? Crown B 16. I beleive the # represent a specific inspector and the B is BSA inspection. British Proof Marks- Crown G.R B below it. Beleive this to be Factory Proof Stamp. Crown G.R 2flags below it and P below flags. Gov't Inspection stamps. Crown F ? There are a lot more on this gun but I don't want to bore anyone with this long letter. If anyone would like to know any more (e.g Early Lithgow Inspection) I sure would continue with this.As I said, I bought this as a piece of history and am now enjoying researcing this gun.Just what I need another hobbie, but now Ive got the bug. Thanks guy's
 
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