.303 brit brass question

TransAm1991

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I should be recieving my used reloading stuff next week, bought a whole Lee anniversary kit for $100 shipped.

Anyway, to my question.

I measured two different brands of brass, Prvi partizan and winchester, the winchester is .020" shorter, and is below the Lee 2.220", is it still useable?
The Prvi stuff is 2.240".
 
Hi. It's not unusual for different brands to stretch to different lengths upon firing. Especially in .303. Chambers tend to be 'generous' and the brass can be softer from brand to brand.
"...Winchester is .020" shorter..." As in 2.200" or just below 2.220"?
The max case length is 2.222". Trim-to length is 2.212". Trim 'em all to 2.212". Don't forget to chamfer and deburr.
 
Measure the stuff at the BASE, too. ou want to stick with the brass that fills the chamber best.

I have been lubing the insides of case-necks for many years as I discovered that some dies can stretch your brass THREE TIMES as much as firing the stuff stretches it. NOT good!

Recently, I have been introduced to the new Lee Collet Die, so I'm getting one of those. Never resizing brass again sounds good to me, even if it will be a PITA to segregate the stuff: I have over a dozen range .303s.

My pesonal choice for Best Brass Ever Made is DI: Defence Industries. It's that WW2 stuff with the DI headstamp and the date and a big Z and nothing else. Boxer-primed, really decent brass, super-consistent and the rims are ALL precisely at Max.

Shooting fresh FL rsized brass or new rounds, use Ed's Famous O-rings. Or go to your local dollar store and get a $1 package of 100 pony-tail ties from the girls' department. These are just like an O-ring but less stress (load) on the bolt. Keep your cases central to the chamber so they all expand perfectly.

I do not know how long brass will last. Too many variables. All I will say is that I have 2 boxes here that are on their 15th firing in a Ross and still don't need to be trimmed. OTOH, if things don't work out, you CAN have cses separating on their second reload. That's why the information above.

Good luck.
 
What is the "Ed's famous O-ring" procedure ??? I have seen this comment a number of times and am not really following what it does or how it is applied.

I too am just going to start reloading for .303 in a No5 Mk 1.

Thanks for the explaination in advance.
 
What is the "Ed's famous O-ring" procedure ??? I have seen this comment a number of times and am not really following what it does or how it is applied.

I too am just going to start reloading for .303 in a No5 Mk 1.

Thanks for the explaination in advance.

If your rifle has bad headspace and is hard on brass,
a trick is to use a small "O" ring on your cases at the rim.
Really the best way is to fireform your brass (shoot it),
then use a Lee collet die that only neck sizes while punching out old primer.
This works for my No1 that is a little hard on brass.
Also try to stick to near starting loads.
The hotter the load the more stretching of the case.
 
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I do not know how long brass will last. Too many variables. All I will say is that I have 2 boxes here that are on their 15th firing in a Ross and still don't need to be trimmed.

Not a bit surprised. The Ross is, by far, the strongest factory-chambered rifle in 303 Br., with the possible exception of the Ruger No 1.

Ted
 
I should be recieving my used reloading stuff next week, bought a whole Lee anniversary kit for $100 shipped.

Anyway, to my question.

I measured two different brands of brass, Prvi partizan and winchester, the winchester is .020" shorter, and is below the Lee 2.220", is it still useable?
The Prvi stuff is 2.240".

Is that the fired length? or the length following sizing?

Since you don't have the gear yet I am guessing it is pre sizing and does not matter. The trim to length is for after sizing.
 
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