.303 British broken shell extractor
- Thread starter Mr. Buttons
- Start date
Why do you NEED one?
Got a bum round stuck in the chamber?
What the Army used to do was jst run another round into the chamber until it stuck, then slap back smartly on the bolt-handle. When the bolt came back, it would bring the broken casing out, stuck onto the front end of your fresh round.
WORKS about 98% of the time.
BTW, a tight cleaning swab run through from the MUZZLE often will loosen one.
Whatever you do, do NOT run a tap or anything that hard into the chamber.
Check on the EE or put a WTB in BITS 'N PIECES on the EE. Somebody's bound to have a spare BSE.
Hope this helps.
.
Got a bum round stuck in the chamber?
What the Army used to do was jst run another round into the chamber until it stuck, then slap back smartly on the bolt-handle. When the bolt came back, it would bring the broken casing out, stuck onto the front end of your fresh round.
WORKS about 98% of the time.
BTW, a tight cleaning swab run through from the MUZZLE often will loosen one.
Whatever you do, do NOT run a tap or anything that hard into the chamber.
Check on the EE or put a WTB in BITS 'N PIECES on the EE. Somebody's bound to have a spare BSE.
Hope this helps.
.
I lost my broken case extractor last year at the range. 
A few weeks ago, what happened to Mr. Buttons happened to me. I had a "dummy" round in my tool kit that I used as Smellie explained, and it worked! Yay!
Lou
A few weeks ago, what happened to Mr. Buttons happened to me. I had a "dummy" round in my tool kit that I used as Smellie explained, and it worked! Yay!
Lou
It ALWAYS happens when you don't have that tool with you.
I think it's magic, really; the tool is just insurance that it doesn't happen to you.
Leave the tool at home and BINGO! you have a broken casing up the pipe.
Thankfully, we were trained on the Number 4 before we converted to the C1. It's one thing I never forgot (and thankfully, too: I have had my share and more of handloading "adventures".)
.
I think it's magic, really; the tool is just insurance that it doesn't happen to you.
Leave the tool at home and BINGO! you have a broken casing up the pipe.
Thankfully, we were trained on the Number 4 before we converted to the C1. It's one thing I never forgot (and thankfully, too: I have had my share and more of handloading "adventures".)
.
.410 bore brush from the breech end. Push just past the case mouth twist a little bit. it grabs the case and then you can pull it out.
I have tried the jaming a fresh round into the broken case and it has never worked for me. I am probably not hitting it hard enough.
I have tried the jaming a fresh round into the broken case and it has never worked for me. I am probably not hitting it hard enough.
I haven't tried it, but some say a knitting needle, with the hook on the end, also serves to grab the front of the casing from the breech end extract it. (have both a stuck casing tool and the knitting needle in the range bag - waiting for the no-doubt inevitable)
I've had more failed cases like that happen to me on a couple of my .303's. (brass used too many times) In each case, I just hooked it with a small screw driver and slid it out. Fortunately I've never had one stuck in there.
Good tips here.
Good tips here.
Headspace and understanding what happens the first time you fire your commercial .303 cartridge case in the Enfield rifles military chamber will help to see.
Below is a once fired commercial factory loaded Winchester cartridge case, it has stretched .009 in the web area on the first firing and the headspace was set at .067.
Please note I have the gauges to measure case stretching very accurately.
The same Winchester cases below, right to left new unfired, once fired, and third firing and so much junk.
If you fireform your cases with a rubber o-ring around the base of the case, it will be held firmly against the bolt face and will not stretch and have case head separations when neck sized only thereafter.
Bottom line I do NOT own a broken case extractor because I NEVER have any case head separations.
Firearm cartridges with otherwise problematic headspace listed by C.I.P.
The headspace defined by:
Depth of rim recess (or excess headspace)
.303 British
http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delta_L_problem
The reason I don't have case head separations is because a Canadian taught me the o-ring trick.
(so why is an American telling you about it now)
Below is a once fired commercial factory loaded Winchester cartridge case, it has stretched .009 in the web area on the first firing and the headspace was set at .067.
Please note I have the gauges to measure case stretching very accurately.
The same Winchester cases below, right to left new unfired, once fired, and third firing and so much junk.
If you fireform your cases with a rubber o-ring around the base of the case, it will be held firmly against the bolt face and will not stretch and have case head separations when neck sized only thereafter.
Bottom line I do NOT own a broken case extractor because I NEVER have any case head separations.
Firearm cartridges with otherwise problematic headspace listed by C.I.P.
The headspace defined by:
Depth of rim recess (or excess headspace)
.303 British
http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delta_L_problem
The reason I don't have case head separations is because a Canadian taught me the o-ring trick.
(so why is an American telling you about it now)
Northman999
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Yukon
After getting full case separations on only the third firing (after ONLY EVER being neck sized), I made a foot long metal rod into a broken case extractor by simply bending the end into a hook and sharpening it so it could grab even the finest edge of brass. Works like a charm. It comes with me to the range at all times.
And I haven't tried the "O" ring thing YET, but I've got a batch of loaded ammo and a pack of "O" rings all ready to go.
Pretty damn sick of new factory brass lasting only 3-4 firings! Makes the 303 Brit one of my most expensive calibers to shoot!
And I haven't tried the "O" ring thing YET, but I've got a batch of loaded ammo and a pack of "O" rings all ready to go.
Pretty damn sick of new factory brass lasting only 3-4 firings! Makes the 303 Brit one of my most expensive calibers to shoot!
Then lay your hot little mittens on some of that fine Defence Industries brass that we made during War Two. I fire generally slightly-reduced loads (2250 MV w/180) and I have 2 boxes here that have been through the Ross 14 times and are oin their 15th. So far ZERO stretch.
The amo was noncorrosive, nonmercuric and it was loaded with standard .210 Boxer primers.
HEADSTAMP was just the date (1942 through 1945), letter "Z" and letters "DI" at noon, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock.
Guys throw it away because "everybody knows" that wartime brass all was corrosive and mercuric...... but this stuff WASN'T. I scavenge it, I scrounge it, I search it out on ranges, I steal it from brass barrels and I NEVER have troubles.
It's getting a BIT long in the tooth these days, so it might benefit from a mild annealing before you run it TOO many times through the rifle. That new LEE Collet Die would be a great help, also.
So pick up a couple of unopened boxes of "DI" ammo at the next gun show, start it off with "Ed's Famous (originally-Canadian) O-Rings", then reload with the Lee die and you should never have to buy brass again.
Works for me, anyway.
BTW, found a really cheap supply of O-rings at our local Dollar Store. Got a bag of pony-tail ties for a buck in the girls' department. Just like proper O-rings, just not so thick so there is less bolt pre-load but it still holds them nicely in place.
ALSO: there were a bunch of Israeli BCEs sold here some years ago, designed for the FAL, big ugly things with a lever. Work very nicely on Lee-Enfields too.
Hope this helps.
.
The amo was noncorrosive, nonmercuric and it was loaded with standard .210 Boxer primers.
HEADSTAMP was just the date (1942 through 1945), letter "Z" and letters "DI" at noon, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock.
Guys throw it away because "everybody knows" that wartime brass all was corrosive and mercuric...... but this stuff WASN'T. I scavenge it, I scrounge it, I search it out on ranges, I steal it from brass barrels and I NEVER have troubles.
It's getting a BIT long in the tooth these days, so it might benefit from a mild annealing before you run it TOO many times through the rifle. That new LEE Collet Die would be a great help, also.
So pick up a couple of unopened boxes of "DI" ammo at the next gun show, start it off with "Ed's Famous (originally-Canadian) O-Rings", then reload with the Lee die and you should never have to buy brass again.
Works for me, anyway.
BTW, found a really cheap supply of O-rings at our local Dollar Store. Got a bag of pony-tail ties for a buck in the girls' department. Just like proper O-rings, just not so thick so there is less bolt pre-load but it still holds them nicely in place.
ALSO: there were a bunch of Israeli BCEs sold here some years ago, designed for the FAL, big ugly things with a lever. Work very nicely on Lee-Enfields too.
Hope this helps.
.
98% of the time, it works every time.
I've only had a head case separation twice, and this method worked both times. I'm just thankful my extractor didn't go.
I'll have to give the o-ring method a go the next time I buy commercial ammo... which won't be for some time as I have quite an ample supply of brass. I think I have some dental elastics left over, back from my braces days as a teenager, that are looking for some use.
bluemike807
CGN Regular
- Location
- Eastern Ontario
I wound up buying the extractor from Brownells; it works well, though their shipping was ridiculous, something like $25.00
I've only used it twice since I bought it, but its worked fine both times. I keep it in the stock compartment, as my Enfield didnt come with a cleaning kit.
I've only used it twice since I bought it, but its worked fine both times. I keep it in the stock compartment, as my Enfield didnt come with a cleaning kit.
BIG problem, guys, is that the basic LEE action is SPRINGY. It's not WEAK, as the Yanks say, but it IS SPRINGY. And Service-level ammo was up at the sharp end of what could safely be run through a rifle in pretty decent condition, ONCE, and THEN thrown away.
The Brits didn't police up their pretty battlefields and collect up all the brass for reloading; that was left for the Swiss and the Swedes. The Brits just went on to the next battle.
When the rifle fires, the Bolt COMPRESSES and the Body (action, receiver) STRETCHES. This can (and does) produce a sort of a headspace condition every time you pull the trigger, even in a perfect rifle.
Easiest way around this situation is just to load DOWN a bit. Even 10% downloading on the MV will give you up to a 20% drop in peak pressures, and this means LESS Body stretch, LESS bolt compression (just about eliminating both, as a matter of fact). I am gettng EXCELLENT results, accuracy-wise, by dropping the MV for a 180 down to 2250 ft/sec (the actual 1910-proven-most-accurate velocity with the 174) and by staying with a relatively-quick powder (I'm using 4895 and 4064, sometimes as quick as RL-7).
Anyone getting second-reloading separations from the .303 or from any other cartridge, is loading too hot, or has something wrong with the rfle, or both.
BIGGEST SINGLE KILLER of .303 brass is LENGTH. Keep your brass trimmed and watch the failure rate disappear. 2.222" was okay for Service ammo; you knew the chamber was deep enough. But try to keep your brass back about 10 thou from that, keep your pressures down, centralise your brass on initial firing, seat to the OAL of a Mark VII Ball round, neck-size only, then sit back and watch your scores go up..... and your brass life with them.
Hope this helps.
.
The Brits didn't police up their pretty battlefields and collect up all the brass for reloading; that was left for the Swiss and the Swedes. The Brits just went on to the next battle.
When the rifle fires, the Bolt COMPRESSES and the Body (action, receiver) STRETCHES. This can (and does) produce a sort of a headspace condition every time you pull the trigger, even in a perfect rifle.
Easiest way around this situation is just to load DOWN a bit. Even 10% downloading on the MV will give you up to a 20% drop in peak pressures, and this means LESS Body stretch, LESS bolt compression (just about eliminating both, as a matter of fact). I am gettng EXCELLENT results, accuracy-wise, by dropping the MV for a 180 down to 2250 ft/sec (the actual 1910-proven-most-accurate velocity with the 174) and by staying with a relatively-quick powder (I'm using 4895 and 4064, sometimes as quick as RL-7).
Anyone getting second-reloading separations from the .303 or from any other cartridge, is loading too hot, or has something wrong with the rfle, or both.
BIGGEST SINGLE KILLER of .303 brass is LENGTH. Keep your brass trimmed and watch the failure rate disappear. 2.222" was okay for Service ammo; you knew the chamber was deep enough. But try to keep your brass back about 10 thou from that, keep your pressures down, centralise your brass on initial firing, seat to the OAL of a Mark VII Ball round, neck-size only, then sit back and watch your scores go up..... and your brass life with them.
Hope this helps.
.
Northman999
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Yukon
Springy would explain how I could get separated cases while only neck sizing. I could not get my head around it; I would have thought it impossible.
Even if neck sizing get the heaviest brass you can find. There is more brass to flow when cases expand and contract on firing/cooling. Here are some relative case weights in grains: Imperial 158.9, Rem 161.6, Federal and DIZ44 167, Norma 168.2, Win 171.6, Herter(Sako) 178, HXP75(Greek military)185.9.
In addition to neck sizing after the initial firing cycle, it is also a good idea to tighten up the headspace to as close to minimum as possible. Less than max loads are a good idea. And they are accurate too. All too often folks get mezmerized by velocity when accuracy is what really matters.
In addition to neck sizing after the initial firing cycle, it is also a good idea to tighten up the headspace to as close to minimum as possible. Less than max loads are a good idea. And they are accurate too. All too often folks get mezmerized by velocity when accuracy is what really matters.
If you do not fireform your .303 cases correctly on the first firing your cases are doomed. Forget the SPRINGY action excuse, a 30-30 Winchester has rear locking lugs and the Remington 788 bolt action rifle had rear locking lugs.
A forum member at Gunboards got 32 reloading from his Remington cases using the o-ring method of fireforming his brass, and a split neck was his first case failure.
The American .303 British cartridge is loaded to below 43,000 cup due to the amount of older Enfields still being used today. The American SAAMI designed cartridge cases were never designed for the larger and longer British military chamber, and the rated pressures the later .303 cartridges were designed for at 45,000 cup or 49,000 psi.
If you want cases that are military grade and built like a tank then buy Prvi Partizan cases. The most important thing you can do is fireform your case to fit your chamber and neck size only. A standard American SAAMI full length resizing die "OVER" resizes your cases and is half the reason your cases fail so early.
Once you get it in your heads that American designed SAAMI commercial cases and reloading dies are not designed to British military chamber standards half the battle is won. The second part of the battle is fireforming your cases that were not designed for the British long fat military chamber.
Prvi Partizan cases have thicker rims, a larger base diameter and are .010 thicker in the base web area than any presently made .303 case.
A forum member at Gunboards got 32 reloading from his Remington cases using the o-ring method of fireforming his brass, and a split neck was his first case failure.
The American .303 British cartridge is loaded to below 43,000 cup due to the amount of older Enfields still being used today. The American SAAMI designed cartridge cases were never designed for the larger and longer British military chamber, and the rated pressures the later .303 cartridges were designed for at 45,000 cup or 49,000 psi.
If you want cases that are military grade and built like a tank then buy Prvi Partizan cases. The most important thing you can do is fireform your case to fit your chamber and neck size only. A standard American SAAMI full length resizing die "OVER" resizes your cases and is half the reason your cases fail so early.
Once you get it in your heads that American designed SAAMI commercial cases and reloading dies are not designed to British military chamber standards half the battle is won. The second part of the battle is fireforming your cases that were not designed for the British long fat military chamber.
Prvi Partizan cases have thicker rims, a larger base diameter and are .010 thicker in the base web area than any presently made .303 case.
