303 british bulk sales

maddawg

maddawg

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Hello Gang

Say where can I purchase bulk 303 british ammo? I am hoping in Ontario , but any where else in Canada would be great as well...
best regards and thanks Maddawg
 
Maybe the odd gun show, the days of surplus .303 being widely available is long gone my friend. Probably learn to roll your own would make the most cents
 
The days of surplus 303 are long gone. Most certain source would be to roll your own, or buy something like Privi or S&B new ammo.
 
I know a few guys who have multiple, full, sealed cases stacked in their basements and guess what they do - they buy Prvi and reload, the cases of DA are kept for a rainy day. The good news is that I shot 700 rounds last year through my 303's and about 3/4's of those were reloads. If you're not shooting them through a Lewis or Bren the 303 is an easy cartridge to reload - use a neck die only, keep the loads reasonable and the brass has a good long life.
 
I keep a small supply of DA for zombie attacks, errant dinosaurs, the End of the World owing to the Long Count returning to 0.0.0.0, a takeover by the International Bankers or the Commies or some such, but I do it for one reason: you can't reload the damn stuff! Until at least 1952 (60 years ago), Dominion Arsenals ammo was made with that lousy corrosive-and-mercuric Berdan primer which wrecks your rifle and your brass at the same time. They changed over to NCNM Boxer caps just shortly before they stopped making .303..... and that's no fun at all.

OTOH, the NICEST .303 brass ever made for reloading purposes was the DI: Defence Industries. This was made only from 1941 through 1945, but they made lots of it, so there still are small bits of it around. Noncorrosive, nonmercuric, Boxer, really good brass and the rims are ALL right at .063" and so the stuff headspaces correctly if your rifle is in good nick. I neck-size only when I can get away with it, have a couple boxes here which are on their 15th firing in a Ross and still don't want to be trimmed.

Secrets of brass life: start with the best brass you can get, fireform and neck-size, load DOWN about 10% from Service specs, watch the case-length (especially in LEs) and anneal lightly after half a dozen firings, then every dozen after that. Do it right and the stuff will last MUCH longer than you might believe.

Secrets of bore life: keep pressures and temperatures as low as possible, CLEAN ammo and don't over-clean your rifle.

Happily, these can be COMBINED for practise purposes by using the C.E. Harris UNIVERSAL load for military rounds: 13 grains of Red Dot with a 180 CAST bullet. BUFFDOG turned me onto this one; it is his 200-yard gopher load. It gets about 1800 ft/sec with a 180 cast out of a .303, recoil is minimal and bore life is halfway to forever. For a super-accurate .303 load, try 37 grains of 4895 with a Sierra 180 Pro-Hunter flatbase, seated to the OAL of a Ball round; comes out about 2250 ft/sec from the SMLE, 100 ft/sec or so faster from a 1910 Ross. If your rifle is shooting well, this load can touch bullets at 100, sometimes even overlap them. You need a LOT of sandbags, though! Calculate for drop using the ACTUAL MV and "if you can see it, you can hit it" although you have to know the range.

Of the current makers, Prvi Partizan seems to be making the brass closest to the old military spec, although NOBODY has twigged to the fact that the rim bevel was there for a PURPOSE.

Have fun!

That's what it's all about.

Hope this helps.
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smellie said:
I keep a small supply of DA for zombie attacks, errant dinosaurs, the End of the World owing to the Long Count returning to 0.0.0.0, a takeover by the International Bankers or the Commies or some such, but I do it for one reason: you can't reload the damn stuff! Until at least 1952 (60 years ago), Dominion Arsenals ammo was made with that lousy corrosive-and-mercuric Berdan primer which wrecks your rifle and your brass at the same time. They changed over to NCNM Boxer caps just shortly before they stopped making .303..... and that's no fun at all.

OTOH, the NICEST .303 brass ever made for reloading purposes was the DI: Defence Industries. This was made only from 1941 through 1945, but they made lots of it, so there still are small bits of it around. Noncorrosive, nonmercuric, Boxer, really good brass and the rims are ALL right at .063" and so the stuff headspaces correctly if your rifle is in good nick. I neck-size only when I can get away with it, have a couple boxes here which are on their 15th firing in a Ross and still don't want to be trimmed.

Secrets of brass life: start with the best brass you can get, fireform and neck-size, load DOWN about 10% from Service specs, watch the case-length (especially in LEs) and anneal lightly after half a dozen firings, then every dozen after that. Do it right and the stuff will last MUCH longer than you might believe.

Secrets of bore life: keep pressures and temperatures as low as possible, CLEAN ammo and don't over-clean your rifle.

Happily, these can be COMBINED for practise purposes by using the C.E. Harris UNIVERSAL load for military rounds: 13 grains of Red Dot with a 180 CAST bullet. BUFFDOG turned me onto this one; it is his 200-yard gopher load. It gets about 1800 ft/sec with a 180 cast out of a .303, recoil is minimal and bore life is halfway to forever. For a super-accurate .303 load, try 37 grains of 4895 with a Sierra 180 Pro-Hunter flatbase, seated to the OAL of a Ball round; comes out about 2250 ft/sec from the SMLE, 100 ft/sec or so faster from a 1910 Ross. If your rifle is shooting well, this load can touch bullets at 100, sometimes even overlap them. You need a LOT of sandbags, though! Calculate for drop using the ACTUAL MV and "if you can see it, you can hit it" although you have to know the range.

Of the current makers, Prvi Partizan seems to be making the brass closest to the old military spec, although NOBODY has twigged to the fact that the rim bevel was there for a PURPOSE.

Have fun!

That's what it's all about.

Hope this helps.
.
Click to expand...

Now the trick is to get a manufacturer to make 174gr FMJ to the same specs as the MK7 projectile, including the flat base. The prvi works ok, but it has a boat tail, and not all rifles like it.
 
Hey Gang
Yea I do a lot of reloading, but I am searching for bulk 303 for various reasons lol... Mainly to shoot from the #4 at the range.
i am checking the supplier let on here, but if anyone knows heck even has for sale I would love to get in contact with them... please let me know if you hear of any bulk for sale.
best regards chris
 
The Harris load works out to under a dime a shot... for decent accuracy in a mild load.

You aren't going to beat that with anything less than free ammo.... and they stopped making that a long time ago.
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Just curous what might happen if the case length was long?

I have a few loads on brass that when chambering had a bit of resistance. I didn't think of anything at the time so kept shooting then (only maybe 20 rounds or so). Now that I think the cases were probably over the 2.222".
 
Important with the .303 especially to keep your brass trimmed.

If the brass is long enough, it can PINCH in the leade when you fire. This creates a pressure spike to eject the bullet. The front of the casing adheres to the chamber walls, but the back end of the casing, where it doesn't completely fill the back of the chamber, is free to move...... so it does, straight back against the bolt-face. The frame of the rifle stretches slightly, that long bolt compresses and the headspace increases, both functions of the rather springy action of the Lee rifle. This, of course, causes the brass to stretch all in one small area: the web.

This is the biggest single cause of case separations.

There has been commercial brass put on the market that is so hard and so long, right from the factory, that it will not stand a single reloading without being annealed and trimmed beforehand. None of that these days, it seems, but sure enough about 30 years ago.

Keep your brass trimmed for long life.

Keep your loads mild to improve brass life even more.

Start with the best brass you can get your hands on. For me, this is DI (Defence Industries). Guys throw it out at the range, I pick it up. I haven't bought .303 brass in the last 30 years. Serious.

Treat it right and it will last a long time.
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Not in the short term.

Do it several hundred times and you could get a ring at the rear end of the chamber.

A few dozen times won't hurt her but if the cases crack off completely, then you have to remove what's left in the front end of the chamber. Time for a Ruptured Case Extactor or, if you don't have one handy, just run another round into the chamber, get it to seat in the left-over case part.... and slap the bolt-handle smartly to the rear. Works about 98% of the time, which is why the army only issued Ruptured Case Extractors to Armourers.

Hope this helps.
.
 
There just isn't anything cheaper than about $0.95 a shot out there.

A lot of threads ask about cheap bulk .308/.303/.30-06/12ga buckshot/slugs. Even I thought somewhere the 25 cent a round stuff had to be hiding if I just bought a big enough box from the right place but it just isn't there. Reloading as you already know is the best/cheaper option for most of this stuff.
 
I know where some MK7 rounds are but only boxs of 48 for $50 Canadian.;)

303_wwii2.jpg
 
The case will fold into its self.Here read this it may clear a few things up it did for me. [the key is up tight and out of site :)]

http://www.303british.com/id69.html


LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1 said:
Just curous what might happen if the case length was long?

I have a few loads on brass that when chambering had a bit of resistance. I didn't think of anything at the time so kept shooting then (only maybe 20 rounds or so). Now that I think the cases were probably over the 2.222".
Click to expand...
 
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