.303 Savage caliber change............
- Thread starter mbogo3
- Start date
You could change the spool out to 300 Savage, and have it rechambered, but unless it has some real sentimental value you'd probably be farther ahead, both in money and time, to just sell it and buy one in another caliber.
300 spindles are almost as hard to find as 303 brass.
Ted
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The spool? As in the magazine? Takes more than just changing the mag. You'd have to re-chamber. Norma makes .303 Savage brass. Runs $27.99 per 20, Stateside. Finding it, here, is another question.
Epp's list loaded ammo. No mention of what brand or how much. Likely Norma.
The .300 Savage wouldn't be a great idea. It's a rimless cartridge with a smaller case head. The .303 Savage is rimmed. It'd require altering the bolt face and extractor. Neither would the .307 Win be a great place to start. It's case head diameter is also smaller and is semi-rimmed.
Epp's list loaded ammo. No mention of what brand or how much. Likely Norma.
The .300 Savage wouldn't be a great idea. It's a rimless cartridge with a smaller case head. The .303 Savage is rimmed. It'd require altering the bolt face and extractor. Neither would the .307 Win be a great place to start. It's case head diameter is also smaller and is semi-rimmed.
I reload for my 303 savs. I was able to bring some brass up from stateside some time ago and a local gun shop here in town brings some brass in on occasions. (I make a point of buying as much as I can afford when they do.)
I have also made quite an number of rounds using 220 swift brass and though the rim is smaller in diameter and thinner by a bit they feed good and if made carefully head space reasonably well. They are heavier walled and therefore smaller in internal capacity so one must work up loads carefully, but also last exceedingly well.
I like my old guns and would feel a little guilty if I chopped one up. But I do have a really old 99 in 30-30 that I would trade for same in 303.
I have also made quite an number of rounds using 220 swift brass and though the rim is smaller in diameter and thinner by a bit they feed good and if made carefully head space reasonably well. They are heavier walled and therefore smaller in internal capacity so one must work up loads carefully, but also last exceedingly well.
I like my old guns and would feel a little guilty if I chopped one up. But I do have a really old 99 in 30-30 that I would trade for same in 303.
Some random thoughts...
Obtaining a supply of brass is cheaper and easier than any modification to the gun. A large aupply is unecessary.
.303 Savage ammunition and brass can be had.
I have seen .30-40 brass altered to .303 Savage; .303 British could likely be altered as well. BUT this requires resizing the case in the head area.
Rechambering a barrel would only be worthwhile if the bore were excellent.
99 boltfaces are flat, not calibre specific. I bet actual rim diameter of .303 is pretty close to rim diameter of a .300; will do some measuring later.
Obtaining a supply of brass is cheaper and easier than any modification to the gun. A large aupply is unecessary.
.303 Savage ammunition and brass can be had.
I have seen .30-40 brass altered to .303 Savage; .303 British could likely be altered as well. BUT this requires resizing the case in the head area.
Rechambering a barrel would only be worthwhile if the bore were excellent.
99 boltfaces are flat, not calibre specific. I bet actual rim diameter of .303 is pretty close to rim diameter of a .300; will do some measuring later.
If you have no stomach for making up you own brass from other cartridges then ignore this:
- make it from 30/30 brass. A 3/8" long piece of 7/16" thin wall brass tubing is placed over the web and on first firing is locked in place. The K&S stuff I use needs to be heated red hot before it can be driven into place, as its internal diameter is a bit small. Depending on your dies and chamber size it might still be a couple of thou oversize, but it can be easily reduced in a lathe or drill press;
- use 303 Brit or 30-40 brass. This is more work and involves reducing the head diameter and length. Size the brass down to the web in the 303 Savage dies, then reduce the bulge until the die will go all the way to the rim without resistance. You don't want to force it (sizing dies are not swaging dies and can break if forced).
Otherwise, just find a source of 303 Savage brass and pay whatever the going price is. It makes no sense to modify the gun - the cost would be high and the value of the gun would go down.
Or - sell the gun and buy one in a chambering for which brass is inexpensive.
- make it from 30/30 brass. A 3/8" long piece of 7/16" thin wall brass tubing is placed over the web and on first firing is locked in place. The K&S stuff I use needs to be heated red hot before it can be driven into place, as its internal diameter is a bit small. Depending on your dies and chamber size it might still be a couple of thou oversize, but it can be easily reduced in a lathe or drill press;
- use 303 Brit or 30-40 brass. This is more work and involves reducing the head diameter and length. Size the brass down to the web in the 303 Savage dies, then reduce the bulge until the die will go all the way to the rim without resistance. You don't want to force it (sizing dies are not swaging dies and can break if forced).
Otherwise, just find a source of 303 Savage brass and pay whatever the going price is. It makes no sense to modify the gun - the cost would be high and the value of the gun would go down.
Or - sell the gun and buy one in a chambering for which brass is inexpensive.
"...anything Epps has would be ammo they have got from estate sales..." They're indicating new ammo. Mind you, $75 per box wouldn't surprise me. Buffalo Arms, Stateside, wants $47.00US per 20. Made out of .30-40 Krag brass. That's seasonally made too.
