303 savage rebore (1899)
- Thread starter cody c
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the 303 savage is a 30-30 +50fps.
I have two 30-30wcf winchester levers that are lighter, more nimble to carry, both take downs, carry more rounds and are in probably other ways better than an 1899 in the same-ish caliber.
I can look, can't remember if the bore is shot out on the 303 as well.
The 1899 .308 rebored to 358 (gain twist) cost about $450 I think.
I will likely never use a 303 savage 1899.. But in a different caliber, especially if i could run cheaper handgun ammo, i might even use for gophers and plinking.
Thats my logic, it won't add up for everyone.
I have two 30-30wcf winchester levers that are lighter, more nimble to carry, both take downs, carry more rounds and are in probably other ways better than an 1899 in the same-ish caliber.
I can look, can't remember if the bore is shot out on the 303 as well.
The 1899 .308 rebored to 358 (gain twist) cost about $450 I think.
I will likely never use a 303 savage 1899.. But in a different caliber, especially if i could run cheaper handgun ammo, i might even use for gophers and plinking.
Thats my logic, it won't add up for everyone.
Sometimes "because I can" is the only answer needed. This feels like one of those times. Its just money, not like you can take it with you when you go.
Would it be possible to do a 35cal wildcat based on the 303savage case? Rebore the barrel, keep the chamber the same, fireform your brass, and then use a collet or bushing die to neck size only?
Would it be possible to do a 35cal wildcat based on the 303savage case? Rebore the barrel, keep the chamber the same, fireform your brass, and then use a collet or bushing die to neck size only?
How long ago did you have this done? That seems very inexpensive in todays $$ gain twist I’m assuming RKS did the work?
Mmm, I think it was late october 2024. Your not kidding about inexpensive for what it is. He did a steyr model M from 30-06 to 9.3x62 for me, also spun on a carbon 6 barrel on a 788 and chambered in 6.5CM, the 1899 .308 to .358 recently, and I have a Eddystone that was grandpa's there now to be barreled and drilled for the cost effective and sensible all round caliber - .458WM (I'll finally sleep well at night knowing I can defend myself from random Elephant or hippo attacks in Calgary).
If I get a chambering figured out, maybe I'll drop off the other 1899 when I pick the 458 up.
Only fired one round through the 358, it feeds and shoots fine, but I'll be putting a better quality scope on it before I shoot anymore with it.
Suther - Wildcats are totally a possibility, but are not really economical... Custom reamer, custom dies. There is already other options with off the shelf ammo, but reloading 35 rem shouldnt be hard either.
This is why I was wondering about JUST reboring the barrel and not touching the chamber? If that was possible you wouldn't need a custom reamer? Not really sure if thats possible though?
And then you could avoid using custom dies by using a universal neck sizing die in 35cal?
I dunno. I'm not well versed in this kind of work, but very interested in it none the less. Just throwing out ideas I guess... I don't know if its doable, but it sounds like an easy path to take if it is?
You'd still have to recut the throat area, so you'll have to "touch" the chamber some regardless. - dan
Hahahahahaha I have a 9.3x57 for the rhinos in kneehill county. Been meaning to get some work done at RKS he is 2 towns away from me
Years ago I went on this journey and Ron advised against reboring an older 99. He told me the metal in those days was a little hit and miss. There was a tendency for the metal to tear rather than cut clean IIRC. I had him make me a new gain twist barrel instead and the old Savage shot lights out. The gunsmith I used, if you could call him that, had some issues and stated never again for a 99. I have heard this on other occasions so there may be difficult to find a reputable gunsmith to tackle the job should you consider a new barrel.
As I mentioned above, rebarreling a M99 is somewhat more complicated than rebarreling most bolt action rifles.
The forend is attached to the barrel, so a lug must be installed.
There are breech face cuts, including one for the "finger" top center, and another for the extractor. Indexing is critical. The extractor can be removed from the bolt, but the bolt cannot close until the top center cut is made. Headspace can't be checked until the barrel is indexed and this cut made.
Chamber reaming must be done with the barrel removed from the receiver - you can't sneak up on final headspace hand turning the reamer through the receiver. I suppose a pull reamer would be great, but these are only available in a very few calibers.
The 99 is a classic, and has quite a following. But it very much represents late 19th century manufacturing technology.
One of the real weaknesses in the design is the hollow stock behind the tang. It has got to be hollow, the bolt goes there when the action is open. How any vintage 99s do you see that do not have cracks in that area?
The forend is attached to the barrel, so a lug must be installed.
There are breech face cuts, including one for the "finger" top center, and another for the extractor. Indexing is critical. The extractor can be removed from the bolt, but the bolt cannot close until the top center cut is made. Headspace can't be checked until the barrel is indexed and this cut made.
Chamber reaming must be done with the barrel removed from the receiver - you can't sneak up on final headspace hand turning the reamer through the receiver. I suppose a pull reamer would be great, but these are only available in a very few calibers.
The 99 is a classic, and has quite a following. But it very much represents late 19th century manufacturing technology.
One of the real weaknesses in the design is the hollow stock behind the tang. It has got to be hollow, the bolt goes there when the action is open. How any vintage 99s do you see that do not have cracks in that area?
303 case is .011 mm wider in one place than the 35 remington? That is 4 tenths of one thousandth in imperial. Wouldn't that be insignificant?
I made my own stock lumber for the .308 turned into a .358 and wouldn’t argue…
My remedy or modification was to add material at the sides, and bed it with 2 part epoxy. I did have to widdle down material slowly as it blocked the action initially.
On the sides I created “medallions” essentially out of wood. They match the lines of the action and stand a bit proud but add some thickness. I had my laser guy burn the Indian head logo in both of them.
I had to think about this for a day myself… my conclusion is that it is insignificant and will be handled with reloading dies.
Although recommending to others Carrie’s it’s own liabilities.
