308 brass cycling

M

MartyK2500

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
278   0   0
Location
Quebec
I have a plan on cycling my brass, just double checking if someone has done the same, as it seems to make sense.

Currently shooting a batch of 300x Lapua, half are 3x fired and the other half 2x fired and loaded.
This is all through a bolt action with 1.630'' headspace. Set the headspace back to 1.628'' before reloading.
Was thinking, once they hit 5x fired, buy a new batch of 300x Lapua 0F, and start cycling my 5x fired in an NEA 102.
Even if primer pockets get a bit loose and tolerances not as good, i would have fun with semi auto expecting 2moa, instead of expecting 1/2 moa like my bolt gun.

Since brass will have cycled 5 times once i used it, will it have any decent amount of life left for semi auto?
Will also search to see what guys are getting for headspace for the BCL 102, i imagine it will be more forgiving on brass than cycling it let's say in a chinese M14.
 
Some brass, when treated well, like your 0.002" shoulder setback, can last upwards of 12 reloads. Accuracy has very very little to do with how many times brass has been fired. But by all means, shoot the older stuff in your less precise semi auto. Makes sense.
 
I will know headspace once semi rifle gets here.
If it’s on the higher end let’s say around 308 field 1.638’’, my first firing would get an 8 thou stretch, on casings previously cycled many times.
I guess this is the main concern, multiple times used brass, used in a more generous headspaced rifle.
There will only be 1 good stretch, as afterwards i could set my die set dedicated for the semi, to 4 thou setback.

If i’m lucky the bcl102 will be in the 308 GO territory, and i do anneal firing, which i guess might contribute to help for the stretch in the next rifle?
 
I have a few thousand Lapua cases that I have picked up over the years. I do not keep track of how many times they have been fired and only started annealling last year. Some of these cases are going on the 8th barrel that has been in this target rifle.
Like you, I only set the shoulder back .002”. I will keep firing these cases until the primers start falling out.
 
Exactly, going 2 thou setback every time with annealing every firing, it will last a long time in a bolt gun.
5X fired before going to auto is not set in stone, i could go 6-7-8...
Just was wondering, once it's done it's initial stretch to new chamber (hopefully not more than 8 thou), and then set back 4 thous every firing afterwards, if previously fired brass, multiple times in a bolt gun, would have a chance to endure a few firings in an auto.

As when i will rebarrel my savage 10 for an M40 profile target barrel, i was thinking of starting a new barrel fresh with a new batch (300-400) of same lot lapua brass.
Then my current 300 that i'm cycling will be free for the auto
 
The .308 cases below were fired in a brand new Savage bolt action rifle with the die making hard contact with the shell holder. Meaning the die was setup per the instructions without regard to minimum shoulder bump. Below is nothing more than a example because the rifles headspace and the amount of shoulder bump were not published.

TDwPD1Q.jpg


XEuny9C.jpg


I would never use Lapua brass in a semi-auto, I buy bulk Lake City brass for my AR15 rifles. Lake City brass was designed for semi-auto rifles and is harder and thicker in the base.
I also buy bulk Lake City 7.62 brass for my bolt action Savage, and I sort the cases by head stamp, weight and neck thickness uniformity.
NOTE, I'm a cheap bastard and get the cases at a fraction of the cost of Lapua brass.

How Hard is Your Brass? 5.56 and .223 Rem Base Hardness Tests
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2014/05/how-hard-is-your-brass-5-56-and-223-rem-base-hardness-tests/

5.56 and 7.62 Case Capacities
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0ahUKEwjQyq2Mg_bXAhXjkeAKHfikCWYQFggsMAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.loaddata.com%2Farticles%2FPDF%2FBenchTopics%252087.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0vF6HhAfKmON5UiiSCUlSY
 
bigedp51 said:
The .308 cases below were fired in a brand new Savage bolt action rifle with the die making hard contact with the shell holder. Meaning the die was setup per the instructions without regard to minimum shoulder bump. Below is nothing more than a example because the rifles headspace and the amount of shoulder bump were not published.

TDwPD1Q.jpg


XEuny9C.jpg


I would never use Lapua brass in a semi-auto, I buy bulk Lake City brass for my AR15 rifles. Lake City brass was designed for semi-auto rifles and is harder and thicker in the base.
I also buy bulk Lake City 7.62 brass for my bolt action Savage, and I sort the cases by head stamp, weight and neck thickness uniformity.
NOTE, I'm a cheap bastard and get the cases at a fraction of the cost of Lapua brass.

How Hard is Your Brass? 5.56 and .223 Rem Base Hardness Tests
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2014/05/how-hard-is-your-brass-5-56-and-223-rem-base-hardness-tests/

5.56 and 7.62 Case Capacities
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0ahUKEwjQyq2Mg_bXAhXjkeAKHfikCWYQFggsMAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.loaddata.com%2Farticles%2FPDF%2FBenchTopics%252087.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0vF6HhAfKmON5UiiSCUlSY
Click to expand...

Exactly, the LEE instructions of making contact with shell holder isn't quite valid, don't know why they do that.
Sometimes i would guess to dumb reloading down a bit so the new ones can understand (it can be overwhelming at first)

I would of loved to know ''How Much'' the brass was stretching and how much it was bumped back to on every firing for that chart.
The guy doing the test missed out on this.
If it's a 2 thou stretch or 8 thou stretch between each firing, it would make a world of difference.

My first batch of Lapua will be culled to the auto once i rebarrel, as i will want new brass for new barrel.
I was PMed with an interesting solution. Use PRVI brass instead.
Isn't as good for as much firings, but much cheaper it would seem.
So that way, it stays pristine for my 5 initial firings in a bolt with minimal bumping, then a much cheaper casing is sacrificed for the auto.
Looks like a good compromise.

On the other hand, semi auto will just be a fun plinker at the cottage with friends and familly, also a rifle for the occasionnal range visit, i will use mostly the bolter.
If ever my business partner finally convinces me to start hunting, the auto will also be the deer rifle.
Shot 1200x 308 in 2017, so if i go 1200 for the bolter and 250 for the auto in 2018, at that rate my first batch of culled lapua brass (300x) should last at least 2 years if not more, so not bad choice either.
 
Last edited:
Your idea is sound, but 5X sounds very early to relegate it to the semi. I would go 10X, or until it looses neck tension and it needs annealing.

For the semi, I would get my hands on some military brass. Unless it is a precision semi worthy of Lapua brass.
 
Yep, i was underestimating lapua brass for some reason,
The more i read about it the more i see how ''important'' are my 300x i am currently cycling.
Don't feel like throwing it in a semi anymore if it can live up to 10-12 accurate rounds in a bolter.

Maybe for the semi, i'll just browse the EE for 1F 308 brass and hope it really is what it is.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom