.308 British ?? loaded test tomorow

WhelanLad

WhelanLad

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Hello lads,
I was reading the 303 thread... came across some things that interested me...

I found some Verniers? and measured the bore inside my barrel on the Ruger, came up with an odd number no larger than .3095 ?? dunno if its odd or not, ** Edit** (.313 slugged)
anyway got me thinking back to the interesting things I read....

Has Anyone tried .308 projectiles in their Ruger #1 .303 British???

If so how was it? accuracy wise?

Id suspect a Flat Base would be best option..

Im no rocket scientist but to me it looks plausible....

This is a 150gr Accubond in the end of me Ruger 303..

IMG_1816Bulletmuzzle.jpg~original



IMG_1804muzzle308_311.jpg~original


Interested to hear from those who have done it!?

I also put the 303 case just up the 308win Die an closed the neck up a tad to hold firm on the projectile, maybe 1/4 down the neck..


Thoughts


WL
 
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I've heard this put forward before. I can't seat a .308 projectile into a .303 casing without a applying a heavy crimp to the bullet to hold it in place. In my little experiment, the .308 Nosler Ballistic Tip just slips right into a resized .303 casing. I guess you could try it if you're not afraid of a pressure spike, but personally, I wouldn't.
 
Lawrence, what I did, was neck size about a quarter of the neck to 308 which would hold the projectile enough IMO especially for a single shot rifle! then the rest of the neck is still at fireformed size, orr partially neck sized by the proper .303 british FLS die.

I'm not sure I see where the pressure spike would come from? if the bullet is slightly smaller then shouldn't pressue be lesser especially if its not ideal an leaks around the bullet up the bore?

I have a photo I will upload of a 1/4 neck sized case with a accubond just sittin atop, I didn't wanna waste my precious ABs for trial, although im happy to purchase cheaper Corlokt FB 180s for trial.

WL

keep in mind, open for suggestions an discussions!! not a mouthful of it being the wrong size for calibre/cartridge etc.. more hands on than theory type stuff
 
oooooo, I have no Cup n core cheap 308 projies at present, wanted to sus the more experienced people out an then go from there...

I will do some testing thought for sure, 308 projies are way cheaper than 311s down here

WL
 
Try taking the de-cap rod with expander ball out of your .308 dies and screw them into your .303 sizing die and see if that gives you proper neck tension.
 
9.3, I understand that will work for neck tension although I feel asthough with only partially neck sizing the case can still fill most of the chamber at the shoulders an for most parts of the neck? to my understanding this would be more 'better' than a full 308 neck?

What im trying to find out is things like, is my Miked barrel of .3095 on the money for the Ruger 1? ive read so much about oversized bores on the internet!?

Also if it is correct at .3095 then surely the .308 bullet should grip enough to spin an stabilise without much problem especially for out to 200m, which is not what this particular rifle will be used for, so alternatively it would be a cheap rifle to feed .308 projectiles, using Varget in which I use for my Whelen, 270 and 308, plus the bullet choice in SP 180?gr 308 can be doubled up for use in the 303 and also 308 if needed, although at present my load is Accubonds in the 308 T3.

From what I have gathered though, if they shoot accurately enough for the purpose and don't key hole, then word is to go for it..

most who have tried the 308 projectile thing seem to have used older rifles which may be oversized or worn out to some degree, which is understandable for chit accuracy an not worth the time.


I know a lot more CGNers have #1 .303s which could chime in or give details on some of their measurements and also attempts good or bad using the 308 bullet.


i'l leave it with yas for a while an see what comes of it, im in the midst of gathering Dies an shell holder etc aswell as projectiles.

cheers!

WL
 
Verniers in the muzzle isn't how you measure barrel ID. Slug it. The Ruger is rumoured to have a .314-316 barrel. Wrong diameter for any ammo or American manufactured bullet.
 
sunray said:
Verniers in the muzzle isn't how you measure barrel ID. Slug it. The Ruger is rumoured to have a .314-316 barrel. Wrong diameter for any ammo or American manufactured bullet.
Click to expand...

.314 to .316? Those are some pretty sh!tty barrels then. A groove diameter of .315 on a Lee enfield is considered worn out and needs replacement.
 
Yeah Sunray its roumered... I didn't get .314 -.316 tho... mentioned that I was more so after facts than more internet roumers

WL
 
WhelanLad said:
Im guessing I should "Slug" it, but one does not know how to do so.

il re measure it again today and see if it changes :?

WL
Click to expand...

Slugging is a simple process... I slug all my barrels to properly size for cast bullets... Google is your friend.
 
Partial size Size the neck so the bullet will stay in place (like what you ahve done) seat some bullets and shoot them.

Nothing bad can happen other than they don't group well. Slugging the barrel will give you information, but the real information will come from your group
 
Yeah I googled it up, seems easy LOL
I found a sinker, not quite small enough though so will ground it down a bit to work, then il put it thru.

I re measured with verniers and got a .311 as the biggest number so il slug it to be sure.

Yeah Cheers for the info guys , True Gatehouse, ill get back with the slugged measurement, even at 311 im reasonably optimistic with 308 bullets ... of course that is without shooting them

WL
 
I use a Lee collet neck sizing die and just remove the mandrel all together. I can size the brass down to have good neck tension on .308" bullets without any issues. If you go more than a few thou it can cause the neck to buckle so I usually size down to whatever it normally is (.310" I think?) and then resize again until I can't push a .308" bullet into the neck with my fingers. Of course you need a Lee neck sizing die for this to work.

I have a 194X P14 (I forget the exact year) that slugs around .312" if memory serves that can shoot .308" bullets to the same (mediocre) accuracy as .312" bullets. I had a No.1 Mk.3 that slugged .3155" or .3160" (can't remember) that was so worn out even .3105" bullets would tumble and keyhole in it. I had to use minimum .311" bullets.

Also remember that many calipers can't be trusted better than +/- .002". Some are better than others but every machinist and tool and die maker I've talked to has said if the tolerance is +/- .002" or smaller you really should be using a micrometer.
Measuring the inside of a bore with a caliper also has other problems. Generally when you want to measure the inside of a hole you would use precision ground pins and compare, not an actual measuring device. With the rifling in a barrel this doesn't really work so slugging it is the easiest way to get a decently accurate reading.
If you need lead balls of the right size you can cut open a 00 buck shotshell, they should be .330". Make sure it's a cheap shell and not a premium one as the premium ones are sometimes hardened lead or nickle or copper plated which wouldn't be good for slugging.
 
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Thanks Lutnit!

I ended up slugging it with a fishin sinker, worked all good n tapped it thru with the cleanin rod gently.


So il try some 308s in it in near future an also buy some 311s to be sure an work it out from there.

yas are right, measuring the ends with some digital calipers isn't that accurate.... I went from .3095 to .313 LOL


My confidence with 308s has dwindled somewhat... facts are facts
WL
 
And after all the talk I decided I needed to shoot the darn thing.. at 100m with factory corelokt 180s it still shooting well with open sights, a lean off the window from the passenger seat the 303 still hits well inside A4 paper! MOA of Deer .

note- was not an accuracy test for the rifle but rather me + rifle + distance for hunting accuracy.

if I were a 6 inch square at 100m I would be a little worried


Cheerio

WL
 
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