.308 to 6.5cm?

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PurpleCrow

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Quick question for you gurus out there. I have 2 rifles in .308. I've been toying with the idea of getting a 6.5CM rifle, but then I noticed that .308 and 6.5CM mags are the same. Can a .308 be converted to fire 6.5CM just by changing the barrel out? Does the bolt need to be different too? Or do I need a completely new rifle?

Thanks!
 
Here's a quick comparison:
schematics.jpg


As you can see the case heads have the same dimensions. So, yes, a barrel change only is usually required.
 
Gobig tactical probably has a 6.5 creed barrel for the tikka. Either shouldered or barrel nut. JC makes a great barrel but his lead times are very long. I ordered beginning of February and was told 10-12 weeks. Don't have my barrel yet
 
I just noticed that Insite has a 26" 6.5 creed Krieger prefit for a Tikka on their website. Doesn't mention if it's shouldered, but I'd assume that it is.
 
rugbydave said:
Every Krieger I've ever had from Insite (never got one for a Tikka though) has been an absolute hammer!
Click to expand...

They'll certainly shoot good.

They are shouldered. The issue for the customer will be getting the OEM barrel off if doing the barrel change yourself at home. Tikka factory barrels are notoriously difficult to take off - some have to make relief cuts in the barrel to do so.
 
kthomas said:
They'll certainly shoot good.

They are shouldered. The issue for the customer will be getting the OEM barrel off if doing the barrel change yourself at home. Tikka factory barrels are notoriously difficult to take off - some have to make relief cuts in the barrel to do so.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm just going to bring it to my local armourer
 
PurpleCrow said:
Yeah, I'm just going to bring it to my local armourer
Click to expand...

I would just buy the tools and learn to do it yourself if you're mechanically inclined.
If you're not mechanically inclined it will just take longer than it would normally take.
I don't own any centerfire rifles that I cannot replace the barrel myself.
The 1 exception is my HK SL-8 and the tools are out there for it if I ever need to replace it.

For a barrel with a nut a bench vise and a rear entry action wrench will work along with a barrel nut wrench and a torque wrench.
For a shouldered barrel I would go with a barrel vise and a rear action wrench.
A set of Go, No-Go gauges are a must.
 
thump_rrr said:
I would just buy the tools and learn to do it yourself if you're mechanically inclined.
If you're not mechanically inclined it will just take longer than it would normally take.
I don't own any centerfire rifles that I cannot replace the barrel myself.
The 1 exception is my HK SL-8 and the tools are out there for it if I ever need to replace it.

For a barrel with a nut a bench vise and a rear entry action wrench will work along with a barrel nut wrench and a torque wrench.
For a shouldered barrel I would go with a barrel vise and a rear action wrench.
A set of Go, No-Go gauges are a must.
Click to expand...

The issue with the OEM Tikka barrels is how tight they are installed at the factory. And they use some sort of adhesive.

It's not uncommon to have to make relief cuts to get the factory installed barrel of.

Changing out a barrel on a rifle is usually a pretty typical task. But removing a factory Tikka barrel is a bit more involved, and very difficult of you don't have the tools and expertise.

If it was me, I would send it off to get removed. Once the aftermarket barrel is installed, future barrel changes can easily be done at home.
 
I've ever only found grease/anti seize on tikka threads. By contrast, Remington's often have a mild thread locking compound.
The issue isn't that tikka barrels are overly tight, its that run of the mill barrel vices are "one size fits all" and they suck. The fact that many people (and companies) make a relief cut to remove a Tikka barrel is a travesty in my opinion, as their factory barrels are very good and are in high demand.
A proper barrel vice and action wrench makes removing a factory Tikka barrel a 30 second joke. I do it very regularly; both for builds I've been commissioned to do and for customers who just need the barrel cracked loose and will take the project from there.


I also sell the tooling to guys (and shops) who plan on doing multiple projects.
More info can be found on my website here:
https://www.prprecisionrifles.com/products-1/p/barrel-vice-15
And here:
https://www.prprecisionrifles.com/products-1/p/external-action-wrenches
 
PR Cook said:
I've ever only found grease/anti seize on tikka threads. By contrast, Remington's often have a mild thread locking compound.
The issue isn't that tikka barrels are overly tight, its that run of the mill barrel vices are "one size fits all" and they suck. The fact that many people (and companies) make a relief cut to remove a Tikka barrel is a travesty in my opinion, as their factory barrels are very good and are in high demand.
A proper barrel vice and action wrench makes removing a factory Tikka barrel a 30 second joke. I do it very regularly; both for builds I've been commissioned to do and for customers who just need the barrel cracked loose and will take the project from there.


I also sell the tooling to guys (and shops) who plan on doing multiple projects.
More info can be found on my website here:
https://www.prprecisionrifles.com/products-1/p/barrel-vice-15
And here:
https://www.prprecisionrifles.com/products-1/p/external-action-wrenches
Click to expand...

Those are really nice products!

Tikka barrels are great shooters typically - albeit slow. No harm in ruining one with a relief cut out once the barrel is worn out.

Great equipment makes certain operations much easier. If I had a Tikka with a barrel I wanted changed out, I would much rather have your vice than the Viper I have. The Viper works just fine for regular jobs, your vice looks much higher quality. I do know people with good equipment that have really struggled with some Tikka barrels however.
 
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