im thinking bout getting a bolt action .308 win for long range shooting up to 1000m so i know ill need a stuipidly powerful scope and a bipod and a muzzle break this will be a weapon system that ill only use on the range so however it will bout a year or so till i get this so im wanting to see what everyone this is a combo of parts and pricing but i do like the black sinthect stock with a dark blued barrel i think that it gives a ###y tachitacl look
.308 win
- Thread starter aaronfisher
- Start date
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
I think the first step is to determine your budget and work from there. There are some options with off the shelf rifles, there are more options with semi-custom rifles, and lots of options with full blown custom rigs. If you think recoil will be an issue, there are cartridges with less recoil that perform better at long range than the .308. But whatever chambering you choose, pick a cartridge that you can comfortably lay behind for 10 or 20 rounds.
You don't need to spend good money on things that don't matter. I would put a muzzle brake close to the top of the "Don't Matter" list, closely followed by anything that is prefixed with the word tactical. These are generally things that tend to be expensive, make the rifle heavier and bulkier, but do not aid in its shootability. Having said that, you do need to have a concept in mind when you begin a custom rifle project, and the early version of the US Marine Corps M-40 isn't the worst example to follow. They started with a M-700V bolt gun, bedded to a non adjustable fiberglass stock, topped with a fixed 10X scope, and equipped with a good quality leather shooting sling. The result was a rifle that could be comfortably carried in the field, yet was accurate enough to take out threats at very long range.
Rifle barrels are available in stainless and in chrome-moly steels. Both of these steels can be finished with a tough bake on finish that provides excellent protection to the gun, and are available in a wide range of colors to match your personal tastes. Going the custom barrel route will result in a more accurate rifle, but you must decide if you can make use of the difference for the additional $600 cost.
In all honesty, I began long range shooting with a M-17 Enfield .30/06 hunting rifle with a 3-9X40 scope in Weaver rings, so spending $10K on your first long range rifle isn't necessary. Providing you have a rifle and ammunition combination that proves to be MOA capable at long range you're in the game. Becoming a competent handloader is necessary though, because you need affordable good quality ammo. You can't hit at long range with poor ammo except by accident. Ammo thats OK at 100 yards might not even be in the game once you go past 500. A few boxes of Lapua factory ammo will give you some excellent brass to start you off, and will provide an accuracy benchmark to compare your handloads to.
The .308 is not the most expensive round in the world to load for, but with respect to ammunition cost, consider that the bullet is the most expensive component you will have to purchase on a continual basis. There can be a difference of $20 or more between the cost of a box of .308 match bullets and a box of 6mm match bullets of the same brand within normal bullet weights. If you chose a .223, the difference would be more like $30. If you are an enthusiastic shooter that could effect your annual cost by hundreds of dollars, without the higher cost being advantageous to your score.
There are advantages to the large tube variable power scope, but these scopes tend to be expensive. Fixed power scopes with 1" tubes are lighter, tougher and cheaper than variables but you may find that you need a 20 minute base to get enough vertical adjustment. If you choose a fixed power scope I'd consider a 10X or 12X. Mirage can be a problem with very high magnification, and a fixed power scope can't dial below it like a variable. Your scope should have target style turrets for easy adjustment for range and wind. It should also have parallax adjustment, although a focus ring on the objective is just as good, and in some cases better than a turret. Choosing a used scope is one place where a significant saving can be realized.
I believe that the stock is one place where you shouldn't skimp. The best stock you can afford, properly bedded to the action, is the stock you need. If you can afford the luxuries of an adjustable stock, thats fine, but primarily you need to be concerned about the quality of the stock, and its suitability to meet your needs.
Bi-pods aren't for everyone. They add another dimension to the shooting problem that does not occur when shooting off a rest or sandbags. Because you are confining your shooting to the range, I wouldn't put a bipod on your initial list.
Keep good records, both in the loading room and at the range. These records should include the date, location, light, and weather conditions, your load data and your score. The commercially available record books are quite useful, but just a plain notebook works if you remember to include all the pertinent data.
You don't need to spend good money on things that don't matter. I would put a muzzle brake close to the top of the "Don't Matter" list, closely followed by anything that is prefixed with the word tactical. These are generally things that tend to be expensive, make the rifle heavier and bulkier, but do not aid in its shootability. Having said that, you do need to have a concept in mind when you begin a custom rifle project, and the early version of the US Marine Corps M-40 isn't the worst example to follow. They started with a M-700V bolt gun, bedded to a non adjustable fiberglass stock, topped with a fixed 10X scope, and equipped with a good quality leather shooting sling. The result was a rifle that could be comfortably carried in the field, yet was accurate enough to take out threats at very long range.
Rifle barrels are available in stainless and in chrome-moly steels. Both of these steels can be finished with a tough bake on finish that provides excellent protection to the gun, and are available in a wide range of colors to match your personal tastes. Going the custom barrel route will result in a more accurate rifle, but you must decide if you can make use of the difference for the additional $600 cost.
In all honesty, I began long range shooting with a M-17 Enfield .30/06 hunting rifle with a 3-9X40 scope in Weaver rings, so spending $10K on your first long range rifle isn't necessary. Providing you have a rifle and ammunition combination that proves to be MOA capable at long range you're in the game. Becoming a competent handloader is necessary though, because you need affordable good quality ammo. You can't hit at long range with poor ammo except by accident. Ammo thats OK at 100 yards might not even be in the game once you go past 500. A few boxes of Lapua factory ammo will give you some excellent brass to start you off, and will provide an accuracy benchmark to compare your handloads to.
The .308 is not the most expensive round in the world to load for, but with respect to ammunition cost, consider that the bullet is the most expensive component you will have to purchase on a continual basis. There can be a difference of $20 or more between the cost of a box of .308 match bullets and a box of 6mm match bullets of the same brand within normal bullet weights. If you chose a .223, the difference would be more like $30. If you are an enthusiastic shooter that could effect your annual cost by hundreds of dollars, without the higher cost being advantageous to your score.
There are advantages to the large tube variable power scope, but these scopes tend to be expensive. Fixed power scopes with 1" tubes are lighter, tougher and cheaper than variables but you may find that you need a 20 minute base to get enough vertical adjustment. If you choose a fixed power scope I'd consider a 10X or 12X. Mirage can be a problem with very high magnification, and a fixed power scope can't dial below it like a variable. Your scope should have target style turrets for easy adjustment for range and wind. It should also have parallax adjustment, although a focus ring on the objective is just as good, and in some cases better than a turret. Choosing a used scope is one place where a significant saving can be realized.
I believe that the stock is one place where you shouldn't skimp. The best stock you can afford, properly bedded to the action, is the stock you need. If you can afford the luxuries of an adjustable stock, thats fine, but primarily you need to be concerned about the quality of the stock, and its suitability to meet your needs.
Bi-pods aren't for everyone. They add another dimension to the shooting problem that does not occur when shooting off a rest or sandbags. Because you are confining your shooting to the range, I wouldn't put a bipod on your initial list.
Keep good records, both in the loading room and at the range. These records should include the date, location, light, and weather conditions, your load data and your score. The commercially available record books are quite useful, but just a plain notebook works if you remember to include all the pertinent data.
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You should google "Palma Rifle". No need for a "stuipidly powerful scope" or bipod if you are only shooting 1000m. Iron sights and a sling will work just fine.
A muzzle brake isn't allowed in most competitions with the exception of some sniper style matches, besides you really don't need one for a .308. I would suggest you attend some matches in your area just to observe what goes on and what type of rifles and optics are used. Contact your provincial rifle association to find out when and where these matches are conducted.
F Class F stands for Farquharson, Free, or Fun Class. Targets and ranges are the same as in TR, but with a more demanding scoring system. Any non-magnum single shot rifle up to 8mm. Shot in the Prone Position, but with a telescopic sight and bipod to support the rifle.
Start with an inexpensive varmint model in 308. Work up. Practice, practice, practice. Spend as much on ammo as you do on the gun, then think about what really needs changing. - dan
Long Range Canuck
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Athabasca Alberta aka God's Country
X2 with Dan.
Also get out and play a bit with those that shoot long range, there are many different aspects to it and ways of doing it, find the niche that appeals to your style of shooting, Then plan your rifle from there.
I have "stupidly Powerfull scopes" on my rifles I use more for the long range hunting end of my sport than tactical shooting or target shooting. I usually find myself dialing back to the 10X-or 12X power modes when doing the majority of my shooting, unless shooting at extreamly small targets, you have to see it to hit it, so "Stupidly Powerfull Scopes" is not mandatory, but outstanding quality is a very good way to think if your chasing precision.
A muzzle break on a .308 heavy barrled rifle is probably not needed at all. I run a hot load through my .308 and she has realy no buck. I wouldnt considder a .308 in need of a break, you should be able to shoot all day with no ill effects.......depending on rifle style of course, you will feel more with a light rifle than a heavy. I have a .300WM with a break and can shoot that baby all day every day. Has the recoil of a .223.
In a nut shell find the game that appeals to you, get out with those that play it and go from there. If you start off with something like a rem 700, it is a action most gunsmiths can turn into rifles that shoot like lasers and specialty parts and barrells are all over the place. Enjoy your persuit, its a great game!!
Don't waste alot of money guessing, play with those that do it. You will learn alot and save yourself alot of headaches and money.
Also get out and play a bit with those that shoot long range, there are many different aspects to it and ways of doing it, find the niche that appeals to your style of shooting, Then plan your rifle from there.
I have "stupidly Powerfull scopes" on my rifles I use more for the long range hunting end of my sport than tactical shooting or target shooting. I usually find myself dialing back to the 10X-or 12X power modes when doing the majority of my shooting, unless shooting at extreamly small targets, you have to see it to hit it, so "Stupidly Powerfull Scopes" is not mandatory, but outstanding quality is a very good way to think if your chasing precision.
A muzzle break on a .308 heavy barrled rifle is probably not needed at all. I run a hot load through my .308 and she has realy no buck. I wouldnt considder a .308 in need of a break, you should be able to shoot all day with no ill effects.......depending on rifle style of course, you will feel more with a light rifle than a heavy. I have a .300WM with a break and can shoot that baby all day every day. Has the recoil of a .223.
In a nut shell find the game that appeals to you, get out with those that play it and go from there. If you start off with something like a rem 700, it is a action most gunsmiths can turn into rifles that shoot like lasers and specialty parts and barrells are all over the place. Enjoy your persuit, its a great game!!
Don't waste alot of money guessing, play with those that do it. You will learn alot and save yourself alot of headaches and money.
