.308 winchester chamber reamer??

Big JD-From the hills

Big JD-From the hills

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
99   0   0
Location
Saskatchewan.
I snagged a Douglass premium air gauged .308 heavy contour barrel at the gun show this weekend for a good price, but its pre threaded for a large ring m98, I think I have enough shank to re thread and chamber for a savage. But I am just starting out doing some home gunsmithing(for myself), and don't realy know what chamber reamer would work well with 165-180 grain bullets, I don't want something with a long throat(right?) So would a match solid pilot reamer be what I am after? Where is the best place to order reamers from??
 
PTG works for me or Manson. Both have what you want and great service.
Get the M-852 match reamer. Made for the 154gr Lapua and Sierra 168gr length bullets and any hunting bullet.
And if you don't like the reamer I'll buy it from you. :)

If you do pre drill/boring then a solid pilot will work nicely. Make sure you indicate on the grooves each step of the way.
The other way is with removable pilots. Just start in and keep going. You'll get arguments for both.
 
Don't know which Savage you have - there are two shank diameters - but you might not have to cut off the threaded Mauser shank.
Even if you do loose the 5/8" inch or so, there will be lots of original chamber left over. This reduces how much reaming will have to be done. Having that remnant original chamber will make it it bit more difficult to indicate the barrel in off the bore.
I have reamers by Clymer, Manson, PT&G. All are good. Solid pilot will work fine. Floating pilots are nice, if you have a set of pilots. For one chamber, that might not be justified. A SAAMI reamer will do the job. As suggested, a match reamer would be an excellent idea. There are LOTS of different .308 reamer designs available.
 
It's the savage 10fp-LE2B, 1.055" threads I think it is. Do I need the floating reamer holder or can I just push it with a dead center??

I think I will just buy a reamer, than I have it for future projects.
 
The 1.10" shank on a Mauser isn't going to clean up for 1.055" threads. You are going to lose about 3/4" of barrel. Bit more reaming to do.
Some use floating reamer holders, some run the reamer off the tailcenter.
Either way, you want the bore running true.
Are you going to breech with a shoulder or with the Savage nut? If the barrel has some meat in the breech end, it would be better to use a shoulder and forget the Savage nut.
 
tiriaq said:
The 1.10" shank on a Mauser isn't going to clean up for 1.055" threads. You are going to lose about 3/4" of barrel. Bit more reaming to do.
Some use floating reamer holders, some run the reamer off the tailcenter.
Either way, you want the bore running true.
Are you going to breech with a shoulder or with the Savage nut? If the barrel has some meat in the breech end, it would be better to use a shoulder and forget the Savage nut.
Click to expand...

Yeah It would still leave a bit of the old threads on there if I didn't cut it down. It's going to be close either way nut, or otherwise, there wouldn't be much of a second shot if I reamed to far.

I will do some more measuring I may be better doing the head spacing conventionally, but I should true up the action then right?
 
There's a post on another forum from Dave Kiff giving his opinion of solid pilot reamers........basically states that he never intended on making them, doesn't feel they are a good idea and only makes them because of requests.......
 
If you go with the removable pilot reamer, determine the bore diameter of the barrel before you order. There is no point in paying the premium for a floating pilot reamer unless it fits properly. Or unless you buy several pilots. In the long run, this would be the best way to go.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom