.32 rimfire in revolvers
- Thread starter Sir Plus
- Start date
I use 27 cal hilti blanks so they can be put in on center and always fire no matter what way they turn.
But you could probably put a small wrap of masking tape around the base of the case to make a tighter slip fit
But you could probably put a small wrap of masking tape around the base of the case to make a tighter slip fit
I have been watching, hoping to find an antique status 32 RF for a bit of fun at the range. We recently found out from our range inspector that firearms for which no factory ammo is available no longer may be fired. That ruled the 32 RF out for me.
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Alberta
Not muzzle loaders/cap and ball; we asked. Just firearms that ammunition or ammunition components are no longer commercially manufactured.
This may be Ontario only.
This would rule out anyone developing any new wild-cat cartridges as well.
Milanczar
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Is this in writing?
Is there a written explanation etc?
Please that this also rules out any reloaded ammunition from the way it is written should the bullet be cast by the reloader or the brass reformed.
Or the original antique commercial ammunition as it is no longer manufactured.
Or actually any reloaded ammunition in any non commercial produced caliber such as 38 acp.
So if somebody starts commercially manufacturing it (as has happened in the past) it is suddenly ok?
Last edited:
This was conveyed to us by the range committee immediately following our range inspection; I did not get this first hand. I have not seen anything in writing as yet. When we do, I will share it.
No, it does not apply to hand loads; or even hand-loading old, obsolete center-fire brass cartridges; or new manufacture brass of obsolete cartridges.
My guess is the reason will be safety concerns using non standard components; somebody likely did something stupid, and blew something up; so as governments are prone to do, they take away the responsibility of the individuals, making individuals even more irresponsible.
Milanczar
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Interesting.
This is completely bizarre as a justification of course as the amounts of powder involved in cartridges (especially .32s) are minuscule and the likelihood of serious result is much much higher in muzzle loaders and cap and ball etc as everyone knows.
Personal experience as during a show we were doing I saw one of the Fort York Guard blow himself backwards right off his feet by having loaded multiple blank charges before they went off. A few more ....eh....
Our historical recreation unit was shooting at a range and the fellow next to me loaded 3 live charges in an 1853 Enfield Parker Hale repro and I fortunately overheard him ask as his ramrod would not go all the way down
if it would be ok just to shoot the bullet out as it was stuck and would not go all the way down. Back at the armory when the 'surprise' was unpacked we discovered the mini pipe bomb project.
What “power” blank are you using? And how does it compare to the velocity you would get with BP? And how about PSI, any worries about overpressure?
Such important information deserves better than a hijacked thread and if there’s any truth to it it should be made known
+1 for .32 Colt (short or long) drilled to accept .27 Hilti, no rotation, no problem!
White Hilti is often found on the discount table at the Hilti store, since nobody wants anything that weak. Perfect for a ball on .32 Short Colt.
The Hilti (Ramset makes the .27 as well, sold at home improvement stores) will also power .30 Rimfire, with the right brass tube from a hobby shop, cut down and flared a bit to accept the .27 ... I swage my own projectiles, or if I'm lazy, I'll stuff some .25 "Crow Magnum" pellets into the tube. They open up ("obdurate") nicely and seem surprisingly accurate in the two .30 rimfire guns I've tried them in. The "skirt" of the .25 pellet does need to be flared ever so slightly to ensure it doesn't fall out of the tube under the modest recoil.
White Hilti is often found on the discount table at the Hilti store, since nobody wants anything that weak. Perfect for a ball on .32 Short Colt.
The Hilti (Ramset makes the .27 as well, sold at home improvement stores) will also power .30 Rimfire, with the right brass tube from a hobby shop, cut down and flared a bit to accept the .27 ... I swage my own projectiles, or if I'm lazy, I'll stuff some .25 "Crow Magnum" pellets into the tube. They open up ("obdurate") nicely and seem surprisingly accurate in the two .30 rimfire guns I've tried them in. The "skirt" of the .25 pellet does need to be flared ever so slightly to ensure it doesn't fall out of the tube under the modest recoil.
- Location
- vancouver island
I found the Hilti Green worked just fine with no powder. Round ball went through 1/4" ply and no bounce back.
I used s&w 32 cases with rims thinned and rebored the chamber in my remington no6 for 32sw when i was doing it. I since made a 22lr barrel for it and havent used the 32 in while. Not a option for an antique. I used "yellow #4" on a 1-8 scale they are simpson brand . They were hot. Round ball was ok but 95 gr cast bullet was not. Blew the 27cal apart i didnt find any of the 27cal case.
Nothing is "safe" when it comes to shooting 140 year old guns.
If you can get some 32 Colt brass and drill it out as described on the internet, and stuff in a .27 Hilti or Ramset cartridge, topped with the right sized/lubed Ball (less resistance, lower pressure), you should still probably fire the revolver from behind shelter, held in a vise and triggered with some string.
The biggest problem is, the weakest cartridges are not readily available in Canada. .27 Hilti's weakest is White in color. Ramset, Brown.
Ramset .27 weakest available -- Brown -- is still #2 power. So where's #1? Lately, Hilti .27 weakest available is Green (#3 power). Sure, a healthy revolver will hold up, with a light ball load. One with a flawed cylinder, one fractured by the last owner, one ... well, you get the idea. Yikes. Any gun might fail, but one over 120 years old ...
There are white and brown Hilti somewhere, and I have never seen or heard of white Ramset, though there may be such a thing in America. Those would be "safest".
One could always machine the casings from steel to reinforce the rickety revolver cylinder walls. Still, to keep more fingers, the best plan is to fire slightly undersized and lubed projectiles and pay attention to what's happening. I have managed to ruin a revolver cylinder (not a black powder gun, a modern, stainless one) and it was by following advise like you're reading now. The lesson I learned? Measure the cylinder walls before you shoot anything, get a good digital caliper and have someone teach you how. Shoot a "safe" load and check. Keep checking, if things change by even 1 thousandth, stop. Revolver cylinders will start to stretch, like mine did, well before they fail entirely. That's modern cylinders, made from modern alloys.
Keep pressures low, don't shoot large, heavy projectiles out of .32 rimfire revolvers. Keep it light and you should lose less fingers than if you use a heavy load with a big charge. With antiques, I'm sure part of the thrill of shooting them comes from looking at your intact gun, held in your intact hand, in amazement as the smoke clears.
If you can get some 32 Colt brass and drill it out as described on the internet, and stuff in a .27 Hilti or Ramset cartridge, topped with the right sized/lubed Ball (less resistance, lower pressure), you should still probably fire the revolver from behind shelter, held in a vise and triggered with some string.
The biggest problem is, the weakest cartridges are not readily available in Canada. .27 Hilti's weakest is White in color. Ramset, Brown.
Ramset .27 weakest available -- Brown -- is still #2 power. So where's #1? Lately, Hilti .27 weakest available is Green (#3 power). Sure, a healthy revolver will hold up, with a light ball load. One with a flawed cylinder, one fractured by the last owner, one ... well, you get the idea. Yikes. Any gun might fail, but one over 120 years old ...
There are white and brown Hilti somewhere, and I have never seen or heard of white Ramset, though there may be such a thing in America. Those would be "safest".
One could always machine the casings from steel to reinforce the rickety revolver cylinder walls. Still, to keep more fingers, the best plan is to fire slightly undersized and lubed projectiles and pay attention to what's happening. I have managed to ruin a revolver cylinder (not a black powder gun, a modern, stainless one) and it was by following advise like you're reading now. The lesson I learned? Measure the cylinder walls before you shoot anything, get a good digital caliper and have someone teach you how. Shoot a "safe" load and check. Keep checking, if things change by even 1 thousandth, stop. Revolver cylinders will start to stretch, like mine did, well before they fail entirely. That's modern cylinders, made from modern alloys.
Keep pressures low, don't shoot large, heavy projectiles out of .32 rimfire revolvers. Keep it light and you should lose less fingers than if you use a heavy load with a big charge. With antiques, I'm sure part of the thrill of shooting them comes from looking at your intact gun, held in your intact hand, in amazement as the smoke clears.
