32 to 380 ppk conversion help!

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Hello All,

I'm converting a Ppk from 32 to 380 restricted.

I'm wondering what needs to be swapped out aside from the barrel? I looked at numrich and the following seems to be different;

1) extractor seems to be the same part # for. 32 and 380
2) ejector has different part #
3) recoil spring has different number

Bits of pieces claimed they're only swapping out the barrel...

Thanks,

Tony
 
It should work fine, probably not the first time they did this. Changing the ejector may require further slide or frame work that isn't necessary. You should probably order a proper recoil spring from Brownell's or Wolff though.
 
Cool, do you know if they ship to canada?

I'm still confused what the difference is between an extractor and an ejector, and why does the PPK have both? It seems different with revolvers. I found this picture online.

ejector_extractor.jpg
 
Also, wolff has a great website, but seems there's different springs too.. I'm slightly confused.

WALTHER PPK .380 9MM Kurz

RECOIL SPRINGS
Recoil Springs are available with load-rated specifications to tailor the recoil function to individual needs. Each load-rated recoil spring pak includes an extra power firing pin spring.
Reduced Power...: 14, 15, 16 & 17 Lb.
Factory Standard.: 20 Lb.
Extra Power.........: 24 Lb.
 
They have both because the extractor pulls the casing/round from the chamber and back against the ejector, the ejector forces it out of the gun. Use the "factory 20lb spring" to start.
 
The Extractor pulls the case back with the slide (Extracts from the chamber). The Ejector forces the case out of the gun (Ejects).
 
The Extractor pulls the case back with the slide (Extracts from the chamber). The Ejector forces the case out of the gun (Ejects).

EDIT:I didn't read enefgee's response, he already explained it.
 
Thanks gentlemen!

I got to thinking, i'm hoping the 7.65 ejector is big enough to hit the surface of the 9mm cartridge. Because i mean, 9mm - 7,65 = 1.35mm difference, or 0.675mm mm on each side to make up for...

I dont actually "have" the gun yet, thats why i can't seem to measure anything..
 
Thanks gentlemen!

I got to thinking, i'm hoping the 7.65 ejector is big enough to hit the surface of the 9mm cartridge. Because i mean, 9mm - 7,65 = 1.35mm difference, or 0.675mm mm on each side to make up for...

I dont actually "have" the gun yet, thats why i can't seem to measure anything..

If you were going from the larger case to smaller case it might not work...but this way smaller to larger will be fine.
 
If you were going from the larger case to smaller case it might not work...but this way smaller to larger will be fine.

Thanks all for your replies. I just heard back from Barry at Bits.

BITS OF PIECES to ME:

The 7,65 ejector and recoil spring work fine in the 9mm.


I'll probably still go ahead and buy the proper recoil spring.
 
Just change the barrel?
Not to raise your anxiety too much, but no. Barry @ Bits may not want to tell you everything he's going to do, but in order for your PPK to function, he will

1. Change the barrel. This is the easiest part, if he knows what he's doing, 10 minutes
2. Open the breech face (long milling cutter) to the larger diameter needed for .380
3. (or maybe 2) Open the barrel port in the slide, since the barrel is a bigger diameter in .380
4. regrind the ejector so that the larger .380 round can get past it, but the slide still locks back on empty

If he doesn't do step 4, you will have
-Failure to feed
-Failure to extract (occasional)
-Magazine drops unexpectedly
and probably a few other problems I've forgotten.

I have done a few of these, and my painful discovery was that if I was going to do it again, I would need to use a broaching cutter to cut the slot in the frame needed for the new (Post-war) PPK .380 magazines, which have a tab on the magainze follower that needs a rib in the mag. That tab then trips the much flatter ejector, when it's time to lock back the slide on empty. The ejector is completely different in the modern .380, to avoid the 3 biggies (and probably other problems) -- failure to lock back on empty is your clue that the conversion is a bit of a botch.

Barry has done a lot more of these than most people here, but Walther redesigned the PPK in .380 for a reason. For reliable function, there is no choice but to do it right. Pre-War, the PPK and PP pistols in .380 were bottom magazine release, and the ejector (and frame) were different from the .32 versions as well.

Recoil spring the same? He knows you aren't going to shoot it much. .32 is reasonable recoil in a blowback pistol, .380 Walther recoil is the subject of a scientific study on another board devoted to Walther pistols. Suffice to say, Walther PPK .380 recoil is about the worst of any pistol, both measured and felt, and the recoil spring needs to be heavier or you'll be both sore and holding a damaged pistol in pretty short order.

One reason he may not want to change the spring (other than cost) is that the heavier recoil spring also demands a sturdier mechanism for locking back the slide. If Barry has found the "magic shape" which eluded me, allowing both the bigger .380 to get by and not trip the magazine release or fail to lock open on empty, there is not a lot of material left to hold the slide. A lighter recoil spring means less stress for that part -- maybe. Personally, I think the .30 Epps is the best "simple conversion". It's a shame there is no one reloading that cartridge commercially, or that would be all there would be. A pleasant round to shoot, a true "only the barrel changes" conversion, done well at half the cost.

If you want a .380 PPK, you should really start out with one, where only the barrel is changed. But hey, I'm a stupid hobbyist who doesn't do this for profit, so what do I know?
 
Wow that's alot of fanstastic info, i suppose that's why barry said the conversion from 32 to 380 is more expensive than just replacing and throwing in a longer barrel if it's already a 380.

When i called him the first time he said he'd done many of these 7.65 to 9mm conversions. I just had no idea it too opening the breech face and regrinding the ejector.

Do you think the original 7.65mm magazines will work with the 380? I'm not sure i understand the tab/rib situation.. If they won't work, what should i look for?

Thanks and regards

-Tony

Just change the barrel?
Not to raise your anxiety too much, but no. Barry @ Bits may not want to tell you everything he's going to do, but in order for your PPK to function, he will

1. Change the barrel. This is the easiest part, if he knows what he's doing, 10 minutes
2. Open the breech face (long milling cutter) to the larger diameter needed for .380
3. (or maybe 2) Open the barrel port in the slide, since the barrel is a bigger diameter in .380
4. regrind the ejector so that the larger .380 round can get past it, but the slide still locks back on empty

If he doesn't do step 4, you will have
-Failure to feed
-Failure to extract (occasional)
-Magazine drops unexpectedly
and probably a few other problems I've forgotten.

I have done a few of these, and my painful discovery was that if I was going to do it again, I would need to use a broaching cutter to cut the slot in the frame needed for the new (Post-war) PPK .380 magazines, which have a tab on the magainze follower that needs a rib in the mag. That tab then trips the much flatter ejector, when it's time to lock back the slide on empty. The ejector is completely different in the modern .380, to avoid the 3 biggies (and probably other problems) -- failure to lock back on empty is your clue that the conversion is a bit of a botch.

Barry has done a lot more of these than most people here, but Walther redesigned the PPK in .380 for a reason. For reliable function, there is no choice but to do it right. Pre-War, the PPK and PP pistols in .380 were bottom magazine release, and the ejector (and frame) were different from the .32 versions as well.

Recoil spring the same? He knows you aren't going to shoot it much. .32 is reasonable recoil in a blowback pistol, .380 Walther recoil is the subject of a scientific study on another board devoted to Walther pistols. Suffice to say, Walther PPK .380 recoil is about the worst of any pistol, both measured and felt, and the recoil spring needs to be heavier or you'll be both sore and holding a damaged pistol in pretty short order.

One reason he may not want to change the spring (other than cost) is that the heavier recoil spring also demands a sturdier mechanism for locking back the slide. If Barry has found the "magic shape" which eluded me, allowing both the bigger .380 to get by and not trip the magazine release or fail to lock open on empty, there is not a lot of material left to hold the slide. A lighter recoil spring means less stress for that part -- maybe. Personally, I think the .30 Epps is the best "simple conversion". It's a shame there is no one reloading that cartridge commercially, or that would be all there would be. A pleasant round to shoot, a true "only the barrel changes" conversion, done well at half the cost.

If you want a .380 PPK, you should really start out with one, where only the barrel is changed. But hey, I'm a stupid hobbyist who doesn't do this for profit, so what do I know?
 
Barry is a great gunsmith and has done some very nice work. Don't get me wrong.

Look for the gun to lock open on empty. The easiest way to "deal with" feeding and mag drop problems is to grind away too much of the ejector. The pistol will then cycle, but will of course fail to lock open. The ejector in the 32 or 7.65 PP and PPK is also partly used to guide the little round into the chamber. The fatter .380 / 9mm k will run into this "guide" and either hang up or get shoved into the mag release. You get either a no-shot or a single shot pistol. An artist guided by angels might be able to grind away enough material to let the 380 bullet go by, but still leave enough to catch the lip of the magazine follower and lock open.

All I'm saying is that I haven't managed it, I haven't seen it done, and I've heard that you will probably lose the lock open function, but will have an otherwise nicely converted pistol you can actually own and shoot.

You will want a stronger recoil spring, but again, test it empty first with both springs... Does it lock open?

Barry usually takes many months to do these conversions, and then "the paperwork" (CFC) can take anywhere from a week to many months. Let us know what happens!
 
Barry is a great gunsmith and has done some very nice work. Don't get me wrong.

Look for the gun to lock open on empty. The easiest way to "deal with" feeding and mag drop problems is to grind away too much of the ejector. The pistol will then cycle, but will of course fail to lock open. The ejector in the 32 or 7.65 PP and PPK is also partly used to guide the little round into the chamber. The fatter .380 / 9mm k will run into this "guide" and either hang up or get shoved into the mag release. You get either a no-shot or a single shot pistol. An artist guided by angels might be able to grind away enough material to let the 380 bullet go by, but still leave enough to catch the lip of the magazine follower and lock open.

All I'm saying is that I haven't managed it, I haven't seen it done, and I've heard that you will probably lose the lock open function, but will have an otherwise nicely converted pistol you can actually own and shoot.

You will want a stronger recoil spring, but again, test it empty first with both springs... Does it lock open?

Barry usually takes many months to do these conversions, and then "the paperwork" (CFC) can take anywhere from a week to many months. Let us know what happens!

Absolutely! I bought the gun off a fellow member here on the equipment exchange and he was nice enough to work with me and send it out to barry to get it converted and all the work done.

I paid 400 dollars for the gun
barry said the machining/paperwork/etc will cost 265
So, if i have a working gun, even if it doesnt lock open i'm going to be a pretty happy camper.

I'd upload a picture but i have no clue how.
 
Barry usually takes many months to do these conversions, and then "the paperwork" (CFC) can take anywhere from a week to many months. Let us know what happens!

So barry is officially done with the conversion! As of last friday its time to wait for the paperwork before i can get the gun shipped to me...

Any experiences on how long this might take.. im getting a bit anxious

Thanks!
 
So barry is officially done with the conversion! As of last friday its time to wait for the paperwork before i can get the gun shipped to me...

Any experiences on how long this might take.. im getting a bit anxious

Thanks!

I waited almost 9 months for the approval on a S&W Model 34 that Barry did for me a couple of years ago. My advice is to go shoot something else and to not hold your breath on the PPK. Hopefully the bureaucracy has sorted out their problems and it goes much faster than that for you, but I wouldn't count on it.


Mark
 
I waited almost 9 months for the approval on a S&W Model 34 that Barry did for me a couple of years ago. My advice is to go shoot something else and to not hold your breath on the PPK. Hopefully the bureaucracy has sorted out their problems and it goes much faster than that for you, but I wouldn't count on it.


Mark

Thanks Mark!

Supposedly a couple other guys were saying they receieved their re-barreled luger paperwork within the week. But perhaps PPK's and S&W 34's are more painful...

My plan is to snatch up as many of these PPK's as i can to keep them in circulation. Maybe even some .380's someday when i have the coin for it.
 
Just change the barrel?
Not to raise your anxiety too much, but no. Barry @ Bits may not want to tell you everything he's going to do, but in order for your PPK to function, he will

1. Change the barrel. This is the easiest part, if he knows what he's doing, 10 minutes
2. Open the breech face (long milling cutter) to the larger diameter needed for .380
3. (or maybe 2) Open the barrel port in the slide, since the barrel is a bigger diameter in .380
4. regrind the ejector so that the larger .380 round can get past it, but the slide still locks back on empty

If he doesn't do step 4, you will have
-Failure to feed
-Failure to extract (occasional)
-Magazine drops unexpectedly
and probably a few other problems I've forgotten.

I have done a few of these, and my painful discovery was that if I was going to do it again, I would need to use a broaching cutter to cut the slot in the frame needed for the new (Post-war) PPK .380 magazines, which have a tab on the magainze follower that needs a rib in the mag. That tab then trips the much flatter ejector, when it's time to lock back the slide on empty. The ejector is completely different in the modern .380, to avoid the 3 biggies (and probably other problems) -- failure to lock back on empty is your clue that the conversion is a bit of a botch.

Barry has done a lot more of these than most people here, but Walther redesigned the PPK in .380 for a reason. For reliable function, there is no choice but to do it right. Pre-War, the PPK and PP pistols in .380 were bottom magazine release, and the ejector (and frame) were different from the .32 versions as well.

Recoil spring the same? He knows you aren't going to shoot it much. .32 is reasonable recoil in a blowback pistol, .380 Walther recoil is the subject of a scientific study on another board devoted to Walther pistols. Suffice to say, Walther PPK .380 recoil is about the worst of any pistol, both measured and felt, and the recoil spring needs to be heavier or you'll be both sore and holding a damaged pistol in pretty short order.

One reason he may not want to change the spring (other than cost) is that the heavier recoil spring also demands a sturdier mechanism for locking back the slide. If Barry has found the "magic shape" which eluded me, allowing both the bigger .380 to get by and not trip the magazine release or fail to lock open on empty, there is not a lot of material left to hold the slide. A lighter recoil spring means less stress for that part -- maybe. Personally, I think the .30 Epps is the best "simple conversion". It's a shame there is no one reloading that cartridge commercially, or that would be all there would be. A pleasant round to shoot, a true "only the barrel changes" conversion, done well at half the cost.

If you want a .380 PPK, you should really start out with one, where only the barrel is changed. But hey, I'm a stupid hobbyist who doesn't do this for profit, so what do I know?

I have one of these. He is right. They are ignorant hand biters lol. I have maybe shot 3 mags out of mine. I only keep it because I am hkglock007 lol
 
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