.338 Barrel, what do I need ?

Kelly Timoffee

Kelly Timoffee

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Ok, now since I need a new barrel I have been doing some searching and talking.

I will not be using this rifle for competition, just for long range target, gongs and general peeing around.

1 in 10" is what seems to be standard for 300gr projectiles for a LM.

Now, I am thinking I need 30" of actual barrel to optimize efficiency.Could go more or less, doesn't matter really.

A heavy varmint contour at minimum for profile??

I have kind of decided what brand I will get just need the specifics now.

What are the shooters here using for similar requirements?
 
gunrunner8 said:
Are you for real? Does anybody can produce say 1-9.295" twist?
Do you know that during (especialy) button rifling the twist might oscyllate 1/4" from one end to the other?
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Actually Krieger Barrels, Inc offers a 1:9.35 and a 1:10 twist for .338 barrels, who knew?
 
I've used 1-9.35, 1-10, 1-9.5 all with great results. I'm in the process of doing up a 338 AI lapua with a 30" 8 flute 1-8.5 benchmark, it's a custom contour 1.35 at chamber down to 1.00 at muzzle. No reasoning behind the 8.5 twist other than I got a great deal on it and figured I'd give it a try
 
10 twist is all that is needed for the 300's, even Bergers.

But if you wish to try faster, no problem.

FYI, using the Miller stability calc, 300gr OTM Berger, 2700fps, and a 10 twist - SG is 1.629

9.35 twist - SG is 1.863

So either way, plenty enough. the SG for the MK's will be higher as it is a shorter bullet.

Even at extreme ranges, a 10 twist is all that is needed.

Just remember, the faster the twist rate, the more likely accuracy could lessen due to construction of the bullet

Jerry
 
Like all military cartridges, they perform well with standard length barrels.

26" is a great min. 30" a useable max.

But rigs down to 22" have been successful and not a lot slower then a 26" rig.

So decide on the end use goals, packaging and portability issues and build accordingly.

For contour, bigger can be helpful in higher rd count strings. Again, build to suit your end use goals.

Jerry
 
I have a 30" barrel (10 twist) plus a 3" non removable brake on my 338, it's long enough to be a pain. It won't fit in a standard length case, its more than 54" long, same with a drag bag, its a few extra bucks to get one long enough. I have a couple eberlestock bags, and they are 4" too short, the longer version is nearly $100 more. My next barrel will be 27 - 28" max, with a removable brake. I do get some very good speed from the 30" but to me the inconvience of the extra couple inches isn't worth it, all the rifle does is plink at stuff a long ways away, who cares if it drops 4 more inches at 1200m? If it was a competition rifle I would live with the pain.

I haven't had any stability issues with the 10 twist and bergers, I settled on using 300gr bergers after I laid into a 750 bullet supply.
 
I may or may not re-use the factory savage brake.I will put a brake on either way, not one person has suggested to not use a brake.

I was curious , does the brake actually count towards barrel length and should one calculate as such?OR does it merely add to physical length and that is it?

CanuckWR said:
If you were going to reuse your brake 26-28" would be more than enough. I assume this is for your savage?
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Not at all worried about length or weight, we also have a upholstery company near that will make anything you like so I could get a very useable custom carry case/drag bag.
 
Only adds to psyical length , the brakes bored dia , and ports move gas away from the bullet so it no longer accelerates . Once that bullet leavs the rifled bore , it's slowing down
 
Ok thank you, it is just that some of the reading I was doing almost made it sound like the opposite.

I kind of figured that if it is no longer in a sealed tube how would it change anything.


ultimate_monkey said:
Only adds to psyical length , the brakes bored dia , and ports move gas away from the bullet so it no longer accelerates . Once that bullet leavs the rifled bore , it's slowing down
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Kelly Timoffee said:
I may or may not re-use the factory savage brake.I will put a brake on either way, not one person has suggested to not use a brake.

I was curious , does the brake actually count towards barrel length and should one calculate as such?OR does it merely add to physical length and that is it?



Not at all worried about length or weight, we also have a upholstery company near that will make anything you like so I could get a very useable custom carry case/drag bag.
Click to expand...

The savage brake is pretty good. You can have the brake installed and still replace it with a removable brake later. Personally I would, and I would probably go 26", it's a case of diminishing returns unless you really want to stretch it to the max for reach. Just as Longbomber said you won't gain a really significant advantage with 2" more pipe. Despite what my old lady says.
 
If your not worried about it being too long I would go with 30", this is what I did and I'm glad because my "node" was a couple grs less than what most people are running but I was still able to get 2850fps+ with 300gr projectiles due to the barrel length.
 
Kind of my thinking, you can always cut the load down.Just more flexible I would think.

JayCarver said:
If your not worried about it being too long I would go with 30", this is what I did and I'm glad because my "node" was a couple grs less than what most people are running but I was still able to get 2850fps+ with 300gr projectiles due to the barrel length.
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