.338 LM Hunting load questions

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gelatine

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Hi, Folks:

I'm totally new for reloading. I got some questions. I'm planning to reload a .338 LM for hunting.

Here's my plan:
1. Brass: empty from once fired .338 Lapua Magnum Ammunition By Prvi Partizan
2. Bullet: BARNES 338(.338)265gr LRX BULLET LONG-RANGE BT

There are some criterias.
1. Precise enough of course
2. Mainly for bison / muskox hunt
3. Good stopping power, but not to penetrate through
4. Will retrive the bullet as a souvenir and hopefuly will form a good mushroom shape

Any suggestions and ideas are welcome.

Thanks to you all.

Dysan Tsai
 
I'm not sure what you're looking to get for advice but any bullet designed to expand that's over 250 grains should put down anything on the continent when fired from a 338 Lapua.

I'm not sure getting into reloading with a cartridge like the 338 Lapua is such a great idea. You are going to be using around 100 grains of powder per charge and it's very easy to mess things up and create a dangerous situation. I've talked to more than a few guys that made mistakes when starting out (with cartridges like 223 and 308) that could have turned deadly if they had continued going the way they were going and the 338 has a lot more energy per round. Please at least find a friend who is experienced in reloading to sit with you and help you through your first 50 to 100 rounds. BUY a couple reloading manuals, don't just go on the internet and print off data and think that's all you need. Published data only and start no higher than around half way between min and max loads. Try to resist the temptation to load hot going for higher velocity like most new loaders do. More velocity rarely results in an increase in accuracy although sometimes the most accurate load could also be the book maximum. Work up to max loads very carefully looking for signs of overpressure (condition of your brass and flattening of primers).

Good luck and be safe.
 
I'm beginning to think we need a sticky thread for newbie reloading.....

Step 0) Get a reloading manual or three, and absorb all the sections about the reloading process.
Step 1) Figure out what type of press (single-stage vs turret vs progressive) you want to get. Your priority for reloading (high volume pistol, plinking, precision rifle, etc....) will weigh heavily on your choice of press.
Step 2) Find components appropriate for what you want to reload for.
Step 3) Start your load development at the published MINIMUM for your selected components.
Step 3a) As part of your load development, make up a couple (3-10, depending on application) of dummy rounds (no powder or primer) at a starting seating depth/ overall length to see if they will function through the action.
Step 4) Pick a load development method and work your way up. Stop when you are satisfied with the performance of your reloads.

The reload process in a nutshell. I'm sure others will be along with other comments.....
 
I tend to disagree

I tried the reloading manual approach 6-7 years ago and did not work for me.
Way to much information at once in these books, even information on stuff you'd never use.
Asking people at the range and reading/starting threads on CGN has been the way to go for me.
 
Read the books there is to much miss information on here some good stuff but lots of clueless people that think they know, if you can find someone local to give you a run down would be great but you owe it that person to grab a manual and read it so you have a good start and at least know what you are trying to accomplish.
 
Then again, i paid it forward
When someone new at the club at ipsc practice wants to take up reloading, i usually offer to make a shopping list within his budget then spend an evening setting up press and tools.

Loading pistol on progressive press for ipsc is very straight forward when explained in person.
Telling someone to read a whole reloading manual before i help them would be a huge waste of their time if their time is valuable.

As for rifle, i agree the books will help.
Then again, i'd have a tendency to say that the forums or local people will get you there faster.
Certain dealers can help you set yourself up in exchange for sales, that is a win-win situation too!
 
I'll also add that even though it can easily be done and I've done it myself, hunting with a 338 Lapua is not really very practical, there is so much muzzle blast that you and your hunting partner won't enjoy the experience and you'll be pretty tired of lugging around such a large and heavy rifle after a pretty short time. It really is overkill for any animal less than 300 yards away, I shot a deer at under 100 yards and the entire front right shoulder was completely ruined from the exit wound.

Gelatine, where do you live? Maybe someone on here is close to you and can help get you started safely.
You'll need a magnum sized single stage press, a brass trimmer, quality measuring caliper, lots of powder that is appropriate for the cartridge like H1000 or Retumbo (approx 70 rounds per pound of powder with the 338L), magnum large rifle primers, your choice of projectiles, a brass tumbler is nice to have, quality powder scale, powder trickler, powder dispenser (volumetric), case lube, plenty of time for load development and testing before you intend to hunt.

Don't waste your time testing loads at 100 yards with a 338L, I've found that 200 yards is the minimum since it seems like the projectile doesn't really fully stabilize until it's past 100 yards.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Hi,

Lot of thanks to you all.

I have tried to load few rounds of .38spl ammo before, and everything seemed ok.
However, when it turn to larger ammo like .338LM, I just have no idea what should I looking for.

CR5: Yes, I sure will get a manual/reloading data.
Too bad I have only .338LM available to hunt. Luckily, the hunt I'm planning is on snowmobile and no need to walk a lot. :D
I may will have chance to try long range shooting after the hunt. That's what I really like to try.

OldDude: As a newbie, I'm still trying to work out my own working procedure. That's really a good list to start with.

MartyK2500 / Cummins: That's what I'm doing. CGN is really friendly place.

I'm from Toronto, but currently I'm out of country. Too bad it's totally illegal in here to have a firearm/ammo.

Thanks again. Cheers

Dysan Tsai
 
Post #3 is good advice and also seeking out an experienced reloader is wise. When I started reloading, reading everything possible was interesting and helped set the path to a lifetime of safe reloading. This is an interesting hobby which turned into a business and we sell a lot of .338LM brass / components. It is not for everyone and cannot be used at many ranges due to lack of appropriate template. For hunting from Newfoundland to Alaska, .338LM is used by capable hunters that have proper ballistic knowledge for long range application and have practice with their kit.
 
Kryogen said:
just buy a box of ammo to start, chrono it, test for accuracy in your rifle and hands, and then try to copy a load similar.
Click to expand...

This. For what's it's worth I have a hunting weight Sako (TRG-S/995) that I've loaded for to go elk hunting. Found 250 gr Partitions worked about the best in terms of accuracy, loaded them up to 2960 fps avg if memory serves. They certainly did the job. - dan
 
Guys here seems to be affraid of the 338 Lapua mag case capacity. Treat it like other calibers and you'll be fine. Keep only the powder that you intend to use on the bench. Good luck trying to recover your bullet on any critter unless you shoot target bullets (which aren't suitable for big game of that size) I'd try H 1000 and barnes or a good accubond or partition bullet. Accubond will form a bigger mushroom. Do your test yourself using the data in the book ONLY. A good load for someone might be too hot for your gun. And as for muzzle blast, just have ear muffs and you'll be gtg. Who wouldn't have ear pro with such a caliber lmao.
 
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