.338 or 35 Whelan

randrash

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I am looking to get a little more oomph in the gun cabinet and am looking towards the above two calibres. The gun will be used for an annual moose hunt, and for grizzly protection when I'm guiding up north.

Anyways I'm hoping you guys can shed some light on the pros and cons of each or a preference for my application.

Thanks
 
The only guys I know who really talk about the 35 whelen being at all comparable to the .338 are guys who already own the 35 and are handloading it to the max, just so they can talk about how its "almost like" a 338. What they leave out is they are comparing hot loaded handloads to vanilla factory 338 loads. And once you start shooting longer shots on game, say 300 yards or more, the 35 whelen is anemic compared to the 338. And then you've got all your excellent .338 bullets to chose from. Really not a choice.
 
A necked up 30-06 case vs a necked down .458WM case :rolleyes: Take a look at load data for similar bullet weight, ie 200 gr, the .35 Whelen is somewhat anemic in comparison. But having said that, the .35 Whelen is still quite capable of the job you have in mind, it's just that the .338 is more capable. :)
 
Well, the most glaring difference is in trajectory. The 338 being capable of 300-500fps better velocities with more aerodynamic bullets.

For the up close stuff, they'll both have the thump necessary to do what needs to get done.

Depending on the guide you talk to, the 338 is either too small, or the 'bare' the minimum recommended for grizz hunting.
 
I have both. the 35 whelen is much nicer to shoot at the bench and will drop any moose at reasonable ranges.It definately benefits from reloading.
The 338 is a whole different gun, it will also drop anything but reaches out much further than the 35. Bullet selection is much better for the 338 and the bc is way better. Really depends on what you need it for
 
I seriously wonder how many guys can utilise the potential of some of these magnums simply because they can't shoot accurately with the recoil.What's the point of having a rifle capable of a 400 yard shot if can't hit the target?
I was somewhat chagrined by old Joe Gibault[long gone now-but high up in the BC fish and game dept]who told me there was no point in having more gun than I could shoot-and he suggested I stick with my 6.5 x55 swede-said it would handle anything in North America I was liable to run into]I did-and only now bought a 9.3x57-mainly because it is built on the swede action
 
And I seriously wonder when those who can't handle recoil will stop speaking for those who can...

Back to the topic at hand, the .338 is the finest moose/elk/bear cartridge ever developed. Put it in a rifle that weighs at least 8 pounds with scope and has a good pad, and don't look back. It shoots much flatter than the .35 Whelen, and hits considerably harder at all ranges.
 
.338

Thanks for the insight and opinions. The .338 looked more attractive to begin with, but some guys speak pretty highly of the .35.
 
Both max handloads from the Barnes #3 manual.

.338 Win Mag

225gr @ 2800fps.......-7.97 @ 300yds....-23.04" @ 400yds
250gr @ 2650fps.......-8.82 @ 300yds....-25.32" @ 400yds

.35 Whelen

225gr @ 2700fps.......-9.36" @ 300yds....-27.33" @ 400yds
250gr @ 2550fps.......-9.91" @ 300yds....-28.67" @ 400yds

Not comparable at all:confused: The .338 Win Mag reaches out much further:confused:

Yeah, I'm a .35 Whelen shooter!:evil:
 
The 338 you can buy ammo at Wally World and C/Tire. It's not premium but it's $38 a box. Don't think 35 Whelan ammo is all that available, but if you are a handloader there's no problem just neck-up the 30-06 case.

The 338 is a very good cartridge, no doubt about it. But the gun you buy is quite a factor if you're recoil sensitive as they do kick. Mine is a pre-64 M70 and I find the recoil no problem, but I know some have a problem with it. It may be their gun, the stock weight and design or just themselves not learning how to go with the recoil. I find recoil is like riding a horse; you can fight it or go with it.

The 35 Whelan is no slouch either as it's been a successful and well respected cartridge for quite some time.

For myself, I would use the 338 win mag. Heck you get on to shoot'in that and you're good to go anywhere. Your right up there almost to the 375 H&H, not quite but close enough. Take one out and shoot it and see how you do, you may like it. --- :)

Regards:
Rod
 
Both max handloads from the Barnes #3 manual.

.338 Win Mag

225gr @ 2800fps.......-7.97 @ 300yds....-23.04" @ 400yds
250gr @ 2650fps.......-8.82 @ 300yds....-25.32" @ 400yds

.35 Whelen

225gr @ 2700fps.......-9.36" @ 300yds....-27.33" @ 400yds
250gr @ 2550fps.......-9.91" @ 300yds....-28.67" @ 400yds

Not comparable at all:confused: The .338 Win Mag reaches out much further:confused:

Yeah, I'm a .35 Whelen shooter!:evil:

Right, but you can't compare a .338 bullet with a .358 bullet of the same weight, that'd be like comparing a 175 bullet from a 7mm RM with a 180 from a .338, for example. From the 7mm RM, the 175 has an excellent SD and flight characteristics and will penetrate much better than the 180 from a 338. And why is a 150 grainer from a .30 cal considered light when at 150 from a .270 is moose medicine?
 
I agree with you and it's a factor to consider with smaller calibers but when you get in the power range of the .35 Whelen and .338 Win Mag (especially with premium bullets) lack of penetration or SD on any North American game will not be an issue.
 
OK, everyone keeps bringing up 300-400 yd shooting, but this is to be a moose and grizz defence gun right. moose tend to live in some thick bush, not to often do you have to shoot them at 300-400 yds. As far as grizz defence, if you are "defending" yourself at that range, i think it is safer to call it poaching. I would probably take the 35 Whelen, even though i shoot a 338. Not saying you can't handle recoil, but practice is the most important aspect of good shooting, and if you can sit at a bench and get through 20 roinds of whelen comfortably (ie, before bruising and flinching starts to set in) but only 10 rounds of Win Mag, then you will get more practice with the Whelen, and therefore be more proficient with it. But that's just me
 
Don't know which is best, but saying the .338 is the best bear/moose/elk gun ever made is really a stretch...the big .45s and 50s from the 45/70 up easily trump those small calibers. Come to think of it, I'd take the whelen for it's bigger bore and more flexibility.
 
There has been no discussion regarding action type. I assume the 338WM is in bolt action but what action for the 35Whelen are you thinking about?

I love my 338 for all hunting applications I do (deer, moose and black bears and maybe a grizzly one day) but I don't even consider it when I may have to use it for actual bear defence (ADDED) due to the action type. For me anyway, since I am so used to an 870, I am thinking of picking up a 7600 in 35Whelen for an offensice/defenive bush gun.

Just a thought to ponder
Cheers
 
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Bolt Action

Either gun would be a model 700 bolt action. The .338 would be an XCR. I rarely shoot need to shoot past 300 yards, but would like the extra power to get up to 400 if needed. My main concern is being able to drop a moose, and more importantly stop a charging grizzly at less than 50 yards.
 
If you can get your hands on one, the 375 Ruger Alaskan will be you r baby,,,,

More power than any 338-06, 338WM or 35 Whelen, velocity and trajectory not dissimilar to a 30-06, and a light, handy, compact rifle to boot...

I htink the 338 WM is "ok" but it doesn't do much that a 7RM/300WM cannot do, and while he 35 Whelen is a great cartridge, it's still limited in trajectory.

Personally, I never saw my 338 WM do anything that can't be done by a .300, althogh it sure seemed like my 375 H&H did somethign MORE. A 375 Ruger Alaskan is probbaly the best "guide gun" invented, far better than the marlin 45-70 Guide guns and better than most 338's., too......
 
I rarely shoot need to shoot past 300 yards, but would like the extra power to get up to 400 if needed.
I'd say most folks here could handle their rifle out to 300yds w/o much hassle. Proper zero at 200yds and a bit of overhold will get you to 300. Past 300 would require more practice, no matter what calliber it is. Pick your caliber/rifle and practice.

Here in SJ, we only have a range out to 200yds, so 300 would be a stretch for me.


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