338 Win Mag

I have a model 70 in 338 win mag. I would replace the scope. Let me know if interested
The 338 Win Mag is an extremely versatile round. At a discussion involving the premise that you could only have one rifle that would have been my choice. While warming up for hunting my target animals were gophers and ground hogs. While elk, moose and black bears were taken, this rifle accounted for more head shot grouse than any other gun in my collection. The rifle was a Remington 700 Classic and the stock was a very good fit for me. To answer your question, the stick design is extremely important to absorb and distribute the recoil. Your choice of a Tikka may or may not hold the answer. A 340 Weatherby also had a stick that absorbed recoil.
Good luck with your research.
 
Old threads regularly rise. Give 'er.
I had a Browning Stainless Stalker in 338WM years ago. The rifle was a poor fit, and it's the only rifle I have ever owned that actually bruised me.
Fit is very important on a rifle with real recoil.
Currently I shoot a Savage 116 in 338WM, thanks to Jay, and George. The rifle is a much better fit for me, it's accurate, and I actually shoot it for fun. I did put a Pachmyer Decelerator pad on it to make it even better.
 
My current 338 Win Mag is a Winchester Model 70 Push Feed that I got used in 1990's - I thought it was a good partner to the Winchester Model 70 Push Feed in 308 Win that I used for deer, then. I actually got two elk with that 338 Win Mag, but it has not been out much since I got a used 9.3x62 - that one is probably a Model 649 Husqvarna - I'm not certain about the Model of that one - certainly based on a Mauser 98 Commercial Action - the action was likely made by FN in Belgium.
 
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Old threads regularly rise. Give 'er.
I had a Browning Stainless Stalker in 338WM years ago. The rifle was a poor fit, and it's the only rifle I have ever owned that actually bruised me.
Fit is very important on a rifle with real recoil.
Currently I shoot a Savage 116 in 338WM, thanks to Jay, and George. The rifle is a much better fit for me, it's accurate, and I actually shoot it for fun. I did put a Pachmyer Decelerator pad on it to make it even better.
Yeah my son put a limbsaver recoil pad on his and said it made a big difference.
Less muzzle jump and more of a straight push backwards but ..
One box of ammo is enough for him at the bench at one sitting he says but you never notice the recoil when you have an elk in the crosshairs.
 
Thread may be old, but it is still garnering attention...
When the T3 first came out, it did not take long to see used 338 WMs on the used rack, and mostly due to the felt recoil in that light rifle!

My first 338 was in a LH Rem 700 BDL and it was a great rifle and took moose, elk, bison, black bear and grizzly. The old recoil pad was replaced with a LimbSaver pad, and I went from bruised and sore after 20 rounds of factory 210 gr Partition ammo off the bench to 60 rounds, no bruising or soreness off the bench! My LH Sako AV in 338 WM also got a LimbSaver. Highly recommend the LimbSaver pad for heavier recoiling rifles!
 
29 posts and no one said you don't need a big powerful cartridge to kill moose.
My 25-06 and my 7mm-08 knocked then down as good as my 338-06 ever did... and the first two moose I ever shot was with a .243 and then a 6.5x57.

You don't need a big powerful cartridge to kill moose.
 
29 posts and no one said you don't need a big powerful cartridge to kill moose.
My 25-06 and my 7mm-08 knocked then down as good as my 338-06 ever did... and the first two moose I ever shot was with a .243 and then a 6.5x57.

You don't need a big powerful cartridge to kill moose.
No, you don't but a 338 if you take the time to learn to shoot it is superior for big heavy animals like moose. Small bores, you mention a ,243 are an experts gun on large game imo. Shots need to be precisely placed, bad angles are out of the question, heavy bone is to be avoided.
And a moose when badly hit with a too light bullet can travel a long ways usually through the worst country to follow it through.
You can drop a moose with a 22 long rifle but not a good choice.
 
29 posts and no one said you don't need a big powerful cartridge to kill moose.
My 25-06 and my 7mm-08 knocked then down as good as my 338-06 ever did... and the first two moose I ever shot was with a .243 and then a 6.5x57.

You don't need a big powerful cartridge to kill moose.
I’ve had no trouble knocking over big bull moose with 338’s either. And I can do it from several angles.
 
No, you don't but a 338 if you take the time to learn to shoot it is superior for big heavy animals like moose. Small bores, you mention a ,243 are an experts gun on large game imo. Shots need to be precisely placed, bad angles are out of the question, heavy bone is to be avoided.
And a moose when badly hit with a too light bullet can travel a long ways usually through the worst country to follow it through.
You can drop a moose with a 22 long rifle but not a good choice.
The same can be said about those smaller cals that you mentioned as needing to be an expert user.
Some folks go out and try to prove magazine writers and hunters and the internet wrong by going out with the smallest calibre in pursuit of
killing a large game animal for their egos.
Not suggesting guntech was out to pump his ego nor am I suggesting Mike Webb is padding his ego by the choices they make in their choice of Moose round.
Common sense and responsibility of Fair Chase when choosing Moose Medicine.
My choice would be a 30:06 or a .300 Winmag and having said that a buddy of mine has shot 10 moose in the last 17 years with my old .270 Remington 700 Mountain rifle and most have required 2 shots (1 to knock it down the second to finish ) to get the job done .
There are plenty of members here on CGN who are capable hunters with loads of knowledge for others to learn from myself included even if this thread was started 12 or more years ago.
Long Live the Hunter and his/her rifle.
Rob
 
I agree. Moose aren't particularly tough in general but theyre still big, heavy boned animals. Never hunted elk but from all I've read they are much more tenacious and cling to life to the bitter end. A hard hit moose is more apt to travel a short distance, lay down and expire.
 
29 posts and no one said you don't need a big powerful cartridge to kill moose.
My 25-06 and my 7mm-08 knocked then down as good as my 338-06 ever did... and the first two moose I ever shot was with a .243 and then a 6.5x57.

You don't need a big powerful cartridge to kill moose.
No you don't. But when you're moose/elk hunting in grizzly bear country it gives a certain sense of security. - dan
 
My son purchased a 340 Weatherby at the Calgary Gun Show in April. I'll handload for him however, you'll never witness me shooting that big brute.
 
I loved the 338WM, great round, and for me generally overkill, but fun. I watched a couple videos on it this week, and the mention of it dieing off slowly was made, which I have noticed with few companies chambering it, and fewer loads being sold as well.
Great round though, wish I still had my old Howa in 338WM.
 
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