.35 Whelen Nickel Brass
- Thread starter Slooshark1
- Start date
Good question. I must try that sometime as I have wondered the same.
Some think nickel plated case surfaces are tougher and last longer. May be true.
If the nickel plating flakes of U gots problems possibly. Nickel bits may scratch die interiors which are highly polished I understand.
As near as I have been able to determine the nickel plating offers little real advantage and possibly the disadvantage just mentioned.
If ya got a stainless rifle with scope to match then why not the bullets in matching flavor I guess. Then load a silver bullet and go hunting something demonic.
Some think nickel plated case surfaces are tougher and last longer. May be true.
If the nickel plating flakes of U gots problems possibly. Nickel bits may scratch die interiors which are highly polished I understand.
As near as I have been able to determine the nickel plating offers little real advantage and possibly the disadvantage just mentioned.
If ya got a stainless rifle with scope to match then why not the bullets in matching flavor I guess. Then load a silver bullet and go hunting something demonic.
I have necked up RP nickle plated 30-06 brass to 338 without any problem.
For what it is worth I have never had a problem with plated brass flaking or peeling, rather it just wears off after a while. The idea that nickle can scratch dies is an old-wives tale as nickle is softer than hardened steel. If a loader is not careful however pieces of metal left over from case trimming and chamfering can get stuck inside the dies leaving a scratch in any cases sized in the die. This however can happen with both plated and non-plated brass.
I have noticed too that nickle plated brass will not last as long as regular brass as it is impossible to anneal the case necks. As the 30-06 brass is cheap and I can usually get 9 or 10 loads out of it I don't worry about it.
Pro=nickle users will point out that the cases stay cleaner, cutting down on the amount of crap that gets introduced to the rifle's chamber. They also don't turn green if left in leather shell-holders. They are also easier to find on the ground after the shot. I personally use them mainly to differentiate between different loads.
For what it is worth I have never had a problem with plated brass flaking or peeling, rather it just wears off after a while. The idea that nickle can scratch dies is an old-wives tale as nickle is softer than hardened steel. If a loader is not careful however pieces of metal left over from case trimming and chamfering can get stuck inside the dies leaving a scratch in any cases sized in the die. This however can happen with both plated and non-plated brass.
I have noticed too that nickle plated brass will not last as long as regular brass as it is impossible to anneal the case necks. As the 30-06 brass is cheap and I can usually get 9 or 10 loads out of it I don't worry about it.
Pro=nickle users will point out that the cases stay cleaner, cutting down on the amount of crap that gets introduced to the rifle's chamber. They also don't turn green if left in leather shell-holders. They are also easier to find on the ground after the shot. I personally use them mainly to differentiate between different loads.
Thanks 4 the clarification!
I must have misunderstood Reddings Techline comment five on Case Scratching. Here's their comment which can be misconstrued easily I think - at least I did.
In the above "die scratching proplems" must mean dies scratching the cases I guess and not the nickel bits scratching the dies - so I misunderstood them
. Here's the Redding link - http://ww1.redding-reloading.com/webpages2/techline/techlinepages/scratchedcases.htm
Whelen B said:
Exactly. If the die was scratched it would not leave a scratch on the sized case. Rather if the scratch was deep and wide enough it leave a ridge on the case.
The biggest thing to watch out for is that all your brass you run into full-length sizing dies is clean. That is why I personally use a decapping die to remove the dead primer after shooting very dirty brass and throw the cases in the tumbler BEFORE I lube and size them. I then re-tumble them for a bit to remove the lube.
Any dirt, grit or brass trimmings that get run into a sizing die can adhere to the die walls and cause scratches in re sized cases.
Not necking up, but I use WW nickel 280 Rem brass in my 280 AI rifle. Slicker than hell, I have 150 rounds fireformed without a hint of nickel flaking. Some of it fired 3-4 times with no problems. It's also phenomenal quality brass, very consistent.
If I could find it I wouldn't be shy about trying to neck it up. After all, try 50. What's the worst that can happen? It doesn't work and flakes...flush out your sizer die and you're out the $30 for the brass. Personally I would be surprised if it didn't work.
If I could find it I wouldn't be shy about trying to neck it up. After all, try 50. What's the worst that can happen? It doesn't work and flakes...flush out your sizer die and you're out the $30 for the brass. Personally I would be surprised if it didn't work.
