.357/38 lever guns. What are your favorites?

Good stuff guys and gals.
I'm planning on finding a crescent butt for my ranch hand, hopefully a smaller lever as well as getting rid of that stupid safety and making my own brass follower on the lathe.
Still have to go test it out. Has the tall front sight.
A tang sight would be great as well
 
I like my Rossi 92, and the Skinner peep fits in the hole for the bolt safety, so you also eliminate the bolt safety when you install it. My 158gr XTP load shoots 1" at 50 yards using the Skinner peep. The rifle feeds flawlessly, and the trigger isn't all that bad for a lever action. I bought my stainless 92 with 16" barrel for about half the price of a ranch hand, and it doesn't require a replacement butt stock to be fired accurately.
 
SHELL SHUCKER said:
For my Rossi's, I just reshaped, polished & blued the bolt safety and put a drop of Loctite 545 hydraulic sealant into the hammer safety mechanism as well to hold it fast.
View attachment 49357

As for the magazine follower, I turned out my own using C360 brass stock on the lathe. I've used Steve's ejector springs & they work well to keep the brass from flying far.
View attachment 49358

Tinker,tinker.:)
Click to expand...

That still leaves the ugly embedded "F" and "S" and the unsightly hole and spud.
A good safety delete job looks like the gun never had the pigtail safety in the first place and the area where the safety was should be indistinguishable from the rest of the bolt from normal viewing distance when you're holding the rifle.
 
I got a Henry H012MR with the 16 inch barrel its the big boy Steel none of that foolish brass of yesteryear

The gun is nice it cost me a bunch to get it here in 38-357 mag

it has the mag tube ,I am getting used to it .I have the 357 Marlin in CSS and SS in 44 mag

but I prefer this Henry
 
torontogungal said:
That still leaves the ugly embedded "F" and "S" and the unsightly hole and spud.
A good safety delete job looks like the gun never had the pigtail safety in the first place and the area where the safety was should be indistinguishable from the rest of the bolt from normal viewing distance when you're holding the rifle.
Click to expand...

It all depends how far you want to go. The markings can be welded up and dressed back. An interference fit plug can be pressed into the safety hole and the top welded over. The problem with all this is you have to be VERY careful about heat propagation to the locking shoulders.

I know you said your SO uses epoxy. IMHO, Epoxy will not stain in the F and S depressions for long.

On the stainless guns, I put in a very tight plug, peen the edges, then file it all smooth. Looks great. But if you file off enough to lose the markings, the bolt will look odd with a angled taper at the back.

Here's one of my stainless steel deletes. The safety hole was bevelled in the mill, and a very tight fitting stainless plug was inserted, then hammered to a hairline tight fit. Filed and sanded flush.

IMG_20141217_192840_zps4d21e03e.jpg


I also always restock my "keepers" in walnut.

IMG_20141217_192741_zps6e5ae293.jpg


IMG_0645_zpswmn2idur.jpg
 
Claven2 said:
It all depends how far you want to go. The markings can be welded up and dressed back. An interference fit plug can be pressed into the safety hole and the top welded over. The problem with all this is you have to be VERY careful about heat propagation to the locking shoulders.

I know you said your SO uses epoxy. IMHO, Epoxy will not stain in the F and S depressions for long.

On the stainless guns, I put in a very tight plug, peen the edges, then file it all smooth. Looks great. But if you file off enough to lose the markings, the bolt will look odd with a angled taper at the back.

Here's one of my stainless steel deletes. The safety hole was bevelled in the mill, and a very tight fitting stainless plug was inserted, then hammered to a hairline tight fit. Filed and sanded flush.

IMG_20141217_192840_zps4d21e03e.jpg


I also always restock my "keepers" in walnut.

IMG_20141217_192741_zps6e5ae293.jpg


IMG_0645_zpswmn2idur.jpg
Click to expand...

The wood is gorgeous on the longer one... JP.
 
Smcx said:
Hmm... Any idea where i can find nice walnut for my '92?
Click to expand...

try precision gun works.

Note that any good walnut for a 92 will only work out if it's properly fitted and finished. The early Winchester (not current production) 92's varied in fit from gun to gun and the wood was all hand fitted. The same is true of decent replacement stocks today.
 
torontogungal said:
That still leaves the ugly embedded "F" and "S" and the unsightly hole and spud.
A good safety delete job looks like the gun never had the pigtail safety in the first place and the area where the safety was should be indistinguishable from the rest of the bolt from normal viewing distance when you're holding the rifle.
Click to expand...

As I'm more into function than hittin' the stage, I'm more than satisfied with my mods. No issues thus far.
 
Claven2 said:
It all depends how far you want to go. The markings can be welded up and dressed back. An interference fit plug can be pressed into the safety hole and the top welded over. The problem with all this is you have to be VERY careful about heat propagation to the locking shoulders.

I know you said your SO uses epoxy. IMHO, Epoxy will not stain in the F and S depressions for long.

On the stainless guns, I put in a very tight plug, peen the edges, then file it all smooth. Looks great. But if you file off enough to lose the markings, the bolt will look odd with a angled taper at the back.

Here's one of my stainless steel deletes. The safety hole was bevelled in the mill, and a very tight fitting stainless plug was inserted, then hammered to a hairline tight fit. Filed and sanded flush.

IMG_20141217_192840_zps4d21e03e.jpg


I also always restock my "keepers" in walnut.

IMG_20141217_192741_zps6e5ae293.jpg


IMG_0645_zpswmn2idur.jpg
Click to expand...

Beautiful!
where did you get that wood?
 
JD22-250 said:
What are Marlin .357 s going for. I have a co-worker interested in selling me one but he has no asking price and I wanna know a fair offer?
Click to expand...

You can check the EE from time to time, some sit for a while at $900 based on condition. I think there's one on there now.

I have an 1894C and an 1894CSS. I would suggest an 1894C JM stamped would be between $850-1000 depending on condition. $950-1000 for VG condition. CSS (stainless steel) can range from $1200-2000 depending on condition and desirability. Modifications for slings, optics, refinishing, etc will drastically effect the value. An 1894CS (with cross-bolt safety) is arguably less desirable and value can also be effected.

If it's in good condition with no modifications and you can get it for under $900, you'll do well.
 
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