.357 loads in .38 cases

mp5k

mp5k

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wondering if i could load .357 loads in .38 cases? i only have .357 pistols & tons of .38 brass, wondering if the cases are ok to stoke up, i realize the dangers of them going in a .38 revolver, but they are for my own use only & marked as hot loads, also are the silver cases good for reloading?.............advice?......thanx
 
The safe and smart thing to do is to load the .38 cases using .38 data.

If you have .38+P cases, you can safely load .38 +P loads which aren't
any where near as hot as full house .357 magnum loads.

No one will sanely tell you it is ok to stick 14.5gr of Win296 into a .38+P
case with a 158gr JHP or JSP.

If you want > 1000fps out of your revolver, do it in a .357 case please.
 
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No. The pressures would get odd. Plus P .38 loads would be fine though. A +P case is the same as a regular case, but marked in the factory so a shooter whose revolver isn't rated for +P ammo won't use it.
The silver cases are nickeled ad are fine for reloading.
 
hey it's your fingers and your gun when the rim of the case blows the top strap off the gun you'll know why...

And if you can't read the sarcasm I'm telling you not to do it...

You load to the case not the gun...
 
Using a 357 load in a 38 case means the case capacity is reduced from that which the load was intended for. I saw a thread showing pressure vs seating depth. Pressure was doubled by seating the bullet deeper. Use 38 data in a 38 case.
 
Did you know that .357 Mag was first called ".38-44"? Is was called that because it was loaded in a .38 Special Case for use in Smith & Wessons "N" frame or .44 frame. The case was later lengthened for SAFETY REASONS.
It is possible to do what you have asked but it is not recommended!!

Scott
 
Since you have many 38spl cases, sell/trade them on the EE for 357 brass.

Problem solved. No, thanks are not necessary. Really.:dancingbanana::shotgun::sniper::slap:
 
Back in the days before the advent of the .357 magnum, hi-pressure loads were commonly loaded in the .38 brass for use in the S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman and Colt SAA. Chances are that the brass in those days was heavier than commonly found today. Last time I advocated the use of high pressure loads in .38 Special brass I was threatened with being tarred and feathered, despite having used those loads safely for many years, and despite having published data from that time period; so let me put it this way:

The key is to work up to high pressure carefully, particularly in a small volume cartridge like the .38 Special. The best bet is to start with a known .38 Special load using H-110, 2400, Blue Dot, or some such powder and increase by half grain increments. Cast bullets produce less pressure than jacketed, but care must be taken that the cast bullets' weights are consistent. When you experience sticky extraction back off half a grain, and there's your maximum high pressure load in the particular .38 Special case you have worked up the load in. A change of brass will change the maximum load, so you must work up a load for each different brand of brass, if the brass is nickeled, or if it's designated standard or +P.
 
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thanx for your help, i didnt think it was a good idea but armchair internet "experts" assured me it would be fine, it seemed wrong to mess with loading data so its great to get 3rd 4th & 5th opinions, i will be loading the right way as i intended originally, bless & curse the internet.......
 
Boomer said:
Back in the days before the advent of the .357 magnum, hi-pressure loads were commonly loaded in the .38 brass for use in the S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman and Colt SAA. Chances are that the brass in those days was heavier than commonly found today. Last time I advocated the use of high pressure loads in .38 Special brass I was threatened with being tarred and feathered, despite having used those loads safely for many years, and despite having published data from that time period; so let me put it this way:

The key is to work up to high pressure carefully, particularly in a small volume cartridge like the .38 Special. The best bet is to start with a known .38 Special load using H-110, 2400, Blue Dot, or some such powder and increase by half grain increments. Cast bullets produce less pressure than jacketed, but care must be taken that the cast bullets' weights are consistent. When you experience sticky extraction back off half a grain, and there's your maximum high pressure load in the particular .38 Special case you have worked up the load in. A change of brass will change the maximum load, so you must work up a load for each different brand of brass, if the brass is nickeled, or if it's designated standard or +P.
Click to expand...

Twenty, or so years ago, there was a revolver writer for a gun magazine, named Skeeter, and I can't think of his last name. But he was the sherrif of, (no fooling) Deaf Smith County, Texas.
He advocated loading 357 mag ammo with 38 special brass, for the following reason. Many revolvers, including a Colt Python and a S & W 357 I have, will not take a popular cast bullet, in 357 brass, crimped in the proper crimping groove. The cartridge length is too long, so they have to be crimped on the shoulder. With 38 special brass, however, the bullet can be crimped in it's proper groove.
At he time I was shooting a Ruger that would take the long bullets, and a S & W that would not take the long ammo. So I loaded many full blown loads in 38 brass.
I don't think I have any of the old magazines around with his writings. I do, however, have my own records, based on his information, showing the loads I used. But I will cover my fanny, just like the loading companies do, and not give that information out here.
 
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H4831 said:
Twenty, or so years ago, there was a revolver writer for a gun magazine, named Skeeter, and I can't think of his last name. But he was the sherrif of, (no fooling) Deaf Smith County, Texas.
He advocated loading 357 mag ammo with 38 special brass, for the following reason. Many revolvers, including a Colt Python and a S & W 357 I have, will not take a popular cast bullet, in 357 brass, crimped in the proper crimping groove. The cartridge length is too long, so they have to be crimped on the shoulder. With 38 special brass, however, the bullet can be crimped in it's proper groove.
At he time I was shooting a Ruger that would take the long bullets, and a S & W that would not take the long ammo. So I loaded many full blown loads in 38 brass.
I don't think I have any of the old magazines around with his writings. I do, however, have my own records, based on his information, showing the loads I used. But I will cover my fanny, just like the loading companies do, and not give that information out here.
Click to expand...

Skeeter Skelton, Bill Jordan, and Elmer were among my favorites. Skeeter and Jordan had a thing going on in their respective columns where they hurled friendly insults towards each other - those were a lot of fun to read. Skeeter wrote short stories for Shooting Times with characters that would reappear from time to time. An old reprobate rancher-exlawman named Dobe Grant was loosely based on Bill Jordan.

My early .357 handloading closely reflects your experiences.
 
I tried an example in the QuickLoad program which calculates pressures with various powder charges/bullet weights and OAL, among many other variables.

Calculated a maximum pressure (35,000 psi) 357 load, using 158gr JSP and WW231 with an OAL of 1.58"

When OAL shortened to 1.50" (less than the 0.135" shorter 38spl case) the calculated pressure jumped to 42,000psi. Well in excess of 357 limits, but your mileage may vary.

When shortened the full difference between 357 and 38spl case, the pressure was about 49,000 psi (which is about the pressure of a proof load in 357)
 
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SandRoad said:
I tried an example in the QuickLoad program which calculates pressures with various powder charges/bullet weights and OAL, among many other variables.

Calculated a maximum pressure (35,000 psi) 357 load, using 158gr JSP and WW231 with an OAL of 1.58"

When OAL shortened to 1.50" (less than the 0.135" shorter 38spl case) the calculated pressure jumped to 42,000psi. Well in excess of 357 limits, but your mileage may vary.

When shortened the full difference between 357 and 38spl case, the pressure was about 49,000 psi (which is about the pressure of a proof load in 357)
Click to expand...

W231 is much too fast burning to be satisfactory in full power loads for a 357 magnum.
I had an Oehler 33 chronograph when I was doing the pistol shooting and I loaded, shot and chronographed identical loads in both 357 brass and 38 special brass. I used the proper powder for heavy loads, such as 2400 and
H110.
Goodby to this thread, this is the last of my contributions here.
 
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